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Old 12-14-2010, 10:07 PM   #41
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I will probably hit the scales and go from there. I know I have to compare weights for each axle. But I will probably figure the combined weight of both trailer and truck should be under 13,000. I may try to test each axle. After all it only takes one trip to the scale and a couple weight in's. The problem with the scale. I don't know how to weight just a axle? I assume they have a 70 foot scale.

I guess I can just weight front axle. Then weight full truck with camper attached then subtract the front axle weight to get the rear weight.

Then take and weight everything to get overall weight and subtract the truck weight to get just the camper weight.

Sorry if I confused anyone. Maybe scales is the way to go to give myself and others piece of mind. The last thing I want to deal with is a accident and people thinking im a danger to everyone.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:10 PM   #42
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Side note. I see the weights on my truck

GVWR front is 3925
GVWR rear is 4000
so Truck weight with camper and loaded should be under 7925.

Combined between truck and trailer loaded should be under 13000 according to owners manual. It sounds like I should be under no problem.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:25 PM   #43
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[QUOTE=Racerguy;74740]
Quote:
Originally Posted by great white View Post
Simple numbers alone:


....

But get into an accident and insurance will not cover you and the courts will rake you over the coals if anyone you injure/cause damage to finds out you were in such a condition.

I agree the OP is probably overweight but on forum after forum people state the above but can never site an article or any case law to prove that is actually true.
Not getting into the usual insurance-vs-liability-vs-weight argument but here's a sampling of BC laws (where I live):

http://cvse.ca/vehicle_inspections/PDF/MV3230.pdf

Maximum gross weight for tires
7.15 A person must not, without an overload permit, drive or operate on a highway a vehicle loaded or configured so that the gross weight on a tire exceeds either

(a) the manufacturer's rated capacity for the tire, or

(b) the tire load specified for that vehicle or vehicle combination in Appendix B, C, D, E, F, G, H or I.


Maximum gross weight for axles
7.16 (1) A person must not, without an overload permit, drive or operate on a highway a vehicle loaded or configured so that

(a) the gross weight on an axle exceeds the manufacturer's rated capacity for that axle or for the brake or suspension system with which the axle is equipped,

[en. B.C. Reg. 95/2006, s. 3.]

No doubt States have similar laws, I just don't care to dig.

The Op is over his weight rating from the OE if he doesn't have the trailering package.

You have a liability if you are knowingly operating a vehicle on public roads.

If an accident is caused as a result, you are liable.

If the accident is deemed to have been caused by a violation of vehicular law, you wanna bet the ins company won't deny you coverage for operating a vehicle in violation?

anyways, this is something that can go around and around forever and I've said my piece, so I'm dropping it right here.

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Old 12-14-2010, 10:27 PM   #44
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I'll hit the scales someday. It's winter so no big hurry. I will probably get a different truck before the camper ever leaves the yard again.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:20 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scubieman View Post
I will probably hit the scales and go from there. I know I have to compare weights for each axle. But I will probably figure the combined weight of both trailer and truck should be under 13,000. I may try to test each axle. After all it only takes one trip to the scale and a couple weight in's. The problem with the scale. I don't know how to weight just a axle? I assume they have a 70 foot scale.

I guess I can just weight front axle. Then weight full truck with camper attached then subtract the front axle weight to get the rear weight.

Then take and weight everything to get overall weight and subtract the truck weight to get just the camper weight.

Sorry if I confused anyone. Maybe scales is the way to go to give myself and others piece of mind. The last thing I want to deal with is a accident and people thinking im a danger to everyone.
Put the front axle of your truck on the scales and get a weight.....many scales now have a electronic read outs, so be prepared to write the figures down so you don't have to bother the quarry of feed mill for tickets.

Next, get a weight with just the truck on the scales.

Now weigh all axles on the scales, including the trailer.

Pull the truck off of the scales, and weigh just the trailer axles.

Unhook the trailer, and take just the truck back across the scales. Again, weigh the front axle, total of both axles, and just the rear axle.

Both axles of the truck with the trailer hooked up minus both axles of the truck with no trailer equal your tongue weight.

That calculated tongue weight plus the the weight of only your trailer axles equals your total trailer weight.

Compare each loaded truck axle weight against the manufacturers GAWR. Also, compare those weights with the non-trailer weights to see if your WDH is getting the weight back on the front of the truck.
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:28 PM   #46
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My experience: I had a 5.3 1500 Chevy and bought a TT weighing in at 5700 lbs. I could tow it just fine but my truck too seemed sluggish. I bought the TT used and got a great deal on it. Traded it for a smaller trailer 4200 lbs. Towed much better, but still seemed sluggish to me on hills. Bought 2500 HD 6.0 gas 6 speed transmission. Didn't know 4200 lbs existed behind me. Found a great deal on 5th wheel after using the small trailer for a summer and decided it was way too small. 5th wheel weighs 7800 lbs. No problems up a rather steep incline at 60 MPH turning 2900 RPMs. I won't push this truck over that, but pulls great. I think you are just experiencing the same problems I did with my 1500. It pulls, but just not very well pulling TT loads.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:17 PM   #47
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Right now I'm thinking about getting a cold air intake , different spark plugs and wires, to see if that helps.. Like snjparham said it can do it but just the extra boost would be nice. I also considering a professional chip on it. I won't crank it up but just a little boost would be nice.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:33 PM   #48
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"I'm thinking about getting a cold air intake , different spark plugs and wires, to see if that helps.. Like snjparham said it can do it but just the extra boost would be nice."
============================
Dude, you just ain't getting it!
You don't need 10 more horsepower, you need a HUNDRED more.
Your trailer is too big for your truck. Period.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:35 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crocus View Post
"I'm thinking about getting a cold air intake , different spark plugs and wires, to see if that helps.. Like snjparham said it can do it but just the extra boost would be nice."
============================
Dude, you just ain't getting it!
You don't need 10 more horsepower, you need a HUNDRED more.
Your trailer is too big for your truck. Period.

Really, where you next to me riding along? The way I described or at least meant it is that hills can be tuff and I slow down. It doesn't have all the power in the world like your 7.3 diesel.

Maybe you should of skipped over this forum
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:41 PM   #50
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" The kicker is I have to be above 55 miles a hour or my power range is horrible and maybe have to go down into second"
===========================================
Pretty much said it all in your very first post.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:13 AM   #51
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" The kicker is I have to be above 55 miles a hour or my power range is horrible and maybe have to go down into second"
===========================================
Pretty much said it all in your very first post.
I just want to clear up some things with forum and yourself.

First I did not appericate the way you came out on your first comment.

Second I under stand Im really close to the towing capaticy of my trucks limit but for financial reasons I can not upgrade till next year

I plan on getting a bigger truck but not till next year.

Now with the gearing. My gears are taller and running at 55 I am at 2500 RPM . My max output is at 4500. Im not even using all the power the motor can put out unless I drop to second gear. If I go faster. I get closer to the 4500 peak and I can hold steady at that speed.

I can go up the hills fairly good. I do slow down a bit. But I can let it kick down into 3rd gear out of OD ( Im in tow/haul but seems to have 2 gears for 3rd gear?)or go down to second and make it up the hill descent. I CHOOSE to slow down to prevent my tranny flipping gears all the time.

I understand this can be more dangerous then getting a bigger truck.
I do have some experience by towing heavier roads. Which I understand does not mean everything and that I can handle everything but can help a little bit.

Once again I want to everyone to understand that I know my limits with my truck are pushed and do plan on upgrading once I can.

Believe me I would rather have a F-350. And retired at 24 . But I'm going with what I got for now.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:13 AM   #52
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Sorry dude. It's just that you keep changing your story, so it's hard to answer a question that keeps changing. Good luck.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:55 AM   #53
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Now with the gearing. My gears are taller and running at 55 I am at 2500 RPM . My max output is at 4500. Im not even using all the power the motor can put out unless I drop to second gear. If I go faster. I get closer to the 4500 peak and I can hold steady at that speed.

I can go up the hills fairly good. I do slow down a bit. But I can let it kick down into 3rd gear out of OD ( Im in tow/haul but seems to have 2 gears for 3rd gear?)or go down to second and make it up the hill descent. I CHOOSE to slow down to prevent my tranny flipping gears all the time.

I understand this can be more dangerous then getting a bigger truck.

I am not quite sure what you mean when you say you are at 2500 at 55mph. Is that when you are in 3rd or 4th? I am guessing at 3rd. You really need to find out for sure what gears you have in your truck as I would suspect no higher than 3:73's. That is what I currently have in my Dodge and in 3rd with the converter unlocked 2500 seeems to come to mind. I know this has been beat to death but 4:10's with your 4sp auto box would sure help you out till you can upgrade your truck assuming you have 3:73's or 3:55's. If I were you I would do a Google search for a good GM forum and discuss your truck and needs on there as there would be far more people who know your truck and what can be done on there than on an RV web site.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:09 AM   #54
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liability

[QUOTE=great white;74744]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerguy View Post

Not getting into the usual insurance-vs-liability-vs-weight argument but here's a sampling of BC laws (where I live):

http://cvse.ca/vehicle_inspections/PDF/MV3230.pdf

Maximum gross weight for tires
7.15 A person must not, without an overload permit, drive or operate on a highway a vehicle loaded or configured so that the gross weight on a tire exceeds either

(a) the manufacturer's rated capacity for the tire, or

(b) the tire load specified for that vehicle or vehicle combination in Appendix B, C, D, E, F, G, H or I.


Maximum gross weight for axles
7.16 (1) A person must not, without an overload permit, drive or operate on a highway a vehicle loaded or configured so that

(a) the gross weight on an axle exceeds the manufacturer's rated capacity for that axle or for the brake or suspension system with which the axle is equipped,

[en. B.C. Reg. 95/2006, s. 3.]

No doubt States have similar laws, I just don't care to dig.

The Op is over his weight rating from the OE if he doesn't have the trailering package.

You have a liability if you are knowingly operating a vehicle on public roads.

If an accident is caused as a result, you are liable.

If the accident is deemed to have been caused by a violation of vehicular law, you wanna bet the ins company won't deny you coverage for operating a vehicle in violation?

anyways, this is something that can go around and around forever and I've said my piece, so I'm dropping it right here.

The law also states thou shall not speed, drive thru red lights,use a cell phone while driving. etc
Guess the insurance companies have an out no matter what
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:04 AM   #55
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I think you folks should "agree to disagree." I just read this entire thread and I really have to say that there is no way you will convince someone who "has faith" they are correct to believe otherwise. No amount of facts or logic can prevail to alter that belief and only an argument will result. Politics and religious comments are banned topics (here and at any party you have ever been to) for a reason. NO ONE will change their mind and only a fight will be the outcome.

No one really benefits. No one learns anything new. There are many threads (here and elsewhere) that explain IN DEPTH why a tow vehicle operated at (or over!) the extremes of its capability is unsafe and a danger to the operator and others on the road.

No matter. There are still those who remain unconvinced they are "JUST FINE" until they are rolling sideways in an out of control rig down the highway with their family inside due to an untimely gust of wind.

Poor fuel mileage and poor climb performance are indications you may be (or ARE) overloading your tow vehicle. It is opportunity knocking that your life may be in danger. You can heed the warning or not at your peril.
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:56 AM   #56
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I'm guessing this is aimed at me and how im not listening when I get advice?

The fact is I will be getting a 2500hd duramax once I can afford. I just want a get me by.

My truck has four speed, 3 used when towing. They use to have the 5.7 motor. I got a 5.3. It drives straight and stops when needed. It's like putting a 4.8 motor in your truck. Truck can handle it just you won't be able to maintain good speed.

Forum thanks for input. I know my responses are hard to understand what I mean or are doing. I hope this little bit clears maybe some confusion.

I do want to be safe but either one of two things. Push my truck for one year and go camping or I leave a brand new camper sit in driveway for a full year? Which would the forum do?

I never did hit the scales. So maybe I'm not even over weight and it's just the motor is horrible.

Right now there is about 10 inches of snow on ground and camper won't leave driveway for about 5 months. So no special trip to the scales right now.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:12 PM   #57
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Scubie,

No axe to grind. No one wants to hear that a forum member was killed or his rig wrecked when they have asked for advice and what he got was bad. There are enough folks on the road that have no idea they are on the ragged edge of safety and when I see someone asking to have their plan validated it would be unconscionable to do so in an open forum.

I totally understand your desire from a purely financial viewpoint "to take a chance" and use what you have. I just want you to be aware of the risks to property and family when you do. 99% of the time you can get away with something and it only reinforces bad habits. But it is that 1% of the time that has a catastrophic outcome that you should be thinking about. That 1% may not even be under your control. A sudden gust of wind; coming out from behind a stand of trees on the interstate into a cross wind; being passed by a tandem tractor trailer; braking suddenly from a person (idiot) cutting you off; could be the trigger event to your wreck.

People run stop signs all the time and yet never seem to cause an accident. Yet they do happen; so the behavior is unsafe and replicated over time will be unfortunate for someone.
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