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Old 03-07-2016, 12:07 PM   #1
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selling/trading old rv?

which is best?
we have a 2011 cherokee/grey wolf 26bh and are thinking of moving to a small, probably a pop up. Maybe used - want/need to lose the payment and free up our credit.

Is there a blue book site where i could (in theory) find a book value on our camper?

I suspect we'll get what our loan payoff is..if we're lucky.

Is it best to sell outright or trade in at a dealer?
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:13 PM   #2
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There is a site that gives RV values, off the top of my head I don't recall. NADA values are what you can find. I'm sure there is a NADA site if you google it. I would imagine you would get the best deal from a private sale, however, if you are needing to get rid of the trailer now (because of the payment), the only "guaranteed now" solution is trade. If you try to sell it in a private sale, you may end up having it in your yard for sale for months and months, until you come across someone who wants to buy it. But if it is a trade, the dealer is the one that has to deal with resale. So you have to weigh the risk/reward of value in trade versus the possibility it might take a while to sell it. Best of luck
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:14 PM   #3
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RV Prices, Values & Reviews - NADAguides

You won't get near what the NADA guide says for trade value....probably around 70% or less.

You're best off trying to sell outright.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:31 PM   #4
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Investigate selling your old one "On Consignment".

Every dealer I talked to was willing to take my camper on consignment so it is a good option when "privately selling."

Advantages include:

1) Not getting scammer calls/emails at all hours asking for your bank account information to deposit the check.

2) Not worrying about getting ripped off by a "cashiers check" when the "shipper" comes to take your camper and title.

3) It clears your driveway for your new camper.

The way it works is (after you make contact over the phone) you bring your camper to the dealership "ready to sell" and you and the dealer go over the camper.

You both agree on what you want for the camper. You give them the keys and they try to sell it for more than you are asking. They keep the amount over the price you agreed on.

The downside is you are totally dependent on them to market and move your camper. You don't get your money till it sells. It could take a LONG time if you want top dollar.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:51 PM   #5
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I've sold my previous 2 trailers on Kijiji.ca which is probably similar to Craigslist in the US. I can prevent my phone # from being posted and insist on email only for the initial contact. My terms are always certified check or bank draft (both very reliable), and only in person transactions. I don't respond to lowballers or PayPal requests and say so right in my ad.

You'll rarely get good value on a trade-in.

Herk7769's recommendation sounds good too but I don't have any experience at consignment. If you aren't comfortable selling it yourself this could be a good alternative.

Patience is a virtue when selling privately.
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:01 PM   #6
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"I suspect we'll get what our loan payoff is..if we're lucky" Don't quite understand this. If there is anyway you can hold on to it(tighten that wallet/purse no camping) call the insurance people and if they have a "put it in storage" option that will save some $ pay it off and sell it. Sorry about your dilemma. Good luck
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:41 PM   #7
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Beware of cashiers checks. They can "clear" your bank but can take an additional 7 - 10 days for the hard copy to make it back to the originating bank.

The way the scam works is the "crook" makes a "good faith" deposit to your PayPal or Bank by personal check (say 500 dollars) drawn on an out of state bank. You deposit it and is clears just fine.

He says his "shipper" will come for the camper with a cashiers check for the balance owed and will handle all the paperwork.

The shipper arrives with a cashiers check and goes with you to transfer the title "to the shipper". Off he drives with your title and your camper. You deposit the cahiers check in your account.

After 5 days your bank shows the funds available and you close on the camper of your dreams, writing a local check on the deposited funds.

3 days later you get notified by the dealer the check has bounced and you call the bank. You find out the cashiers check is a fraud and your account has been frozen while it is all sorted out.

You pay the fee for the bounced cashiers check AND the bounced personal check to your bank. You lose your new camper and the dealership may or may not return your earnest deposit when the deal falls through.

You lose your old camper because the "buyer" is no longer returning your calls or emails. The only good news is you have the original 500 dollars.

It can even be worse. The cashiers check can be for MORE than the agreed upon price, less 500 dollars. The "shipper" will say that there was a miscommunication about the sales price. Rather than crash the deal, the shipper "suggests" (and perhaps calls on his cell "for permission") to accept your personal check for the difference.

In this scenario, you lose the 500 dollars earnest money and perhaps much more depending on how much more the check was for.

SO many ways to get clobbered if you are trusting of these scammers.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:30 PM   #8
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all i can get out of them is 2016 prices...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JustB_Rad View Post
RV Prices, Values & Reviews - NADAguides

You won't get near what the NADA guide says for trade value....probably around 70% or less.

You're best off trying to sell outright.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:31 PM   #9
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owe around 10k. really don't want to pay to get rid of it...as in sell it for less than we owe.
storage won't save anything..insurance is 130/year. Payment is what i'm trying to get rid of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.t View Post
"I suspect we'll get what our loan payoff is..if we're lucky" Don't quite understand this. If there is anyway you can hold on to it(tighten that wallet/purse no camping) call the insurance people and if they have a "put it in storage" option that will save some $ pay it off and sell it. Sorry about your dilemma. Good luck
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:33 PM   #10
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thanks!
Now i know how to buy my next camper!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Beware of cashiers checks. They can "clear" your bank but can take an additional 7 - 10 days for the hard copy to make it back to the originating bank.

The way the scam works is the "crook" makes a "good faith" deposit to your PayPal or Bank by personal check (say 500 dollars) drawn on an out of state bank. You deposit it and is clears just fine.

He says his "shipper" will come for the camper with a cashiers check for the balance owed and will handle all the paperwork.

The shipper arrives with a cashiers check and goes with you to transfer the title "to the shipper". Off he drives with your title and your camper. You deposit the cahiers check in your account.

After 5 days your bank shows the funds available and you close on the camper of your dreams, writing a local check on the deposited funds.

3 days later you get notified by the dealer the check has bounced and you call the bank. You find out the cashiers check is a fraud and your account has been frozen while it is all sorted out.

You pay the fee for the bounced cashiers check AND the bounced personal check to your bank. You lose your new camper and the dealership may or may not return your earnest deposit when the deal falls through.

You lose your old camper because the "buyer" is no longer returning your calls or emails. The only good news is you have the original 500 dollars.

It can even be worse. The cashiers check can be for MORE than the agreed upon price, less 500 dollars. The "shipper" will say that there was a miscommunication about the sales price. Rather than crash the deal, the shipper "suggests" (and perhaps calls on his cell "for permission") to accept your personal check for the difference.

In this scenario, you lose the 500 dollars earnest money and perhaps much more depending on how much more the check was for.

SO many ways to get clobbered if you are trusting of these scammers.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof_fate View Post
all i can get out of them is 2016 prices...
There's a model year drop down box.
I was able to go to 2011 prices.
You have to select the model name first, then the year selection box comes up.

And you dont add value for things or standard options that RVs normally come with.
Like an oven or spare tire or entertainment system.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof_fate View Post
all i can get out of them is 2016 prices...
2011 Cherokee Grey Wolf Series M-26BH Prices, Values & Specs, 2011 Cherokee Grey Wolf Series M-26BH Equipment Options | NADAguides, RV Values & Prices
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:17 PM   #13
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thanks.
avg retail...10,600
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:42 PM   #14
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Good luck.

I have a 26DBH, 2014 model, for sale here.........on local websites......on RVTrader....you name it.

Only bite I've had so far is one scam asking for my Paypal information.

I'm in same boat. I'm about to buy a new one, and my only choice is probably going to be to trade it in. What's crazy, is that SOMEONE will buy it from that dealer, for more than I'm willing to sell it for!!!!
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:44 PM   #15
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Private party sell. We've had best luck selling through RV Trader.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:29 PM   #16
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What's crazy, is that SOMEONE will buy it from that dealer, for more than I'm willing to sell it for!!!!
Rarely true... Dealers make their money up-front by offering such low trade-in values or by hiding the loss into the inflated price of the new unit... Therefore their used prices are typically very reasonable because they are motivated to move used units off the lot...

In early 2014 we bought our used 2011 Tracer 3150 from a local dealer for LESS than private sellers wanted on CL or RVTrader. It had just arrived as a trade-in the day before so they never had time to post pictures online, etc. I spent 2 hours inspecting the (pristine) TT before making an offer. The dealer included a pressurized leak test & re-caulking, Equalizer 4 WDH & installation, new battery, full propane, free store items, plus an additional $100 in store credit. During the 2.5 hour PDI they adjusted both slide-outs, the awning, and replaced the only non-functional item, a CO2 detector... We've camped for 2 seasons without any issues...

That said, when it's time to upgrade I would not be afraid to buy from a private seller but they need to price it accordingly. Typically the inflated prices on CL & RVTrader are from folks who owe more than their TT is worth...

So, if you owe more than a TT is worth, IMO it's best to keep what you have & continue to pay it off as quickly as possible...

Remember, folks can buy a new 2016 Grey Wolf 26BH w/warranty for around $15,000, so a 5 year-old one will maybe fetch half that...
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:30 PM   #17
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I guess we were lucky we sold 2 pop ups by just setting them by the road with a for sale sign they only sat there a couple a day's, our TT we advertised in our local trader paper and it sold within a week, if you can I would try to sell outright.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:44 PM   #18
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It is a ways away from you but call PPL motorhomes in Houston,tx, you will get top dollar there and with a quick sale, consignment only
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:47 PM   #19
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I sold my 2011 Zinger TT on Craigslist in 2014. I got $3000 more than the best trade offer and $3500 less than my out the door with tax tags and title when it was new. It took about a month. I had a couple lookie loos, one low ball offer and then finally the right people. I was adamant about only being willing to deal locally. When the deal was made, I took a small deposit for earnest money to take it off the market. We then met at their bank. I still had a lien on my tt. Their bank paid off my note and then issued a cashier's check for the balance. We signed a mutually agreed on contract that included terms for them getting the title after my bank released the title. Their bank notarized the contract. They took the trailer at that point (with a pdi I gave them). When my title came in a few days later, we again met at the bank and had the title transfer notarized. They took it to the dmv from there to register in their name. It went really smoothly but required some trust on both parts.
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:57 PM   #20
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Problem with you idea is it's not getting more valuable as time goes by, but continually depreciating.

Getting a 15 year rv loan makes a new rv affordable but does leave one upside down for quite a while, if not forever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Rhino View Post

So, if you owe more than a TT is worth, IMO it's best to keep what you have & continue to pay it off as quickly as possible...

Remember, folks can buy a new 2016 Grey Wolf 26BH w/warranty for around $15,000, so a 5 year-old one will maybe fetch half that...
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