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Old 03-19-2015, 07:34 PM   #31
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Nothing looks unreasonable to me, better to be proactive and get everything right.

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Old 03-20-2015, 04:18 PM   #32
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Looks like we are closing on the deal. Just to be upfront, I never had an ill-word or glance with the dealer. Had some great conversation with him around the dinette in fact. It tooks several emails this week, but he finally replied that they "will include all the items on my list in a work order" after I make the deposit. That is good enough for me, just something to fall back on if I need to. Super excited to bring home out first trailer in a few weeks! He is going to hold it till then, since they don't put water in them until April 1st in MN.

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Old 03-20-2015, 04:35 PM   #33
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"My insurance does not allow customers to be in the service area, when can we get the deposit?"
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:37 PM   #34
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"Dangleing the cash" is counterproductive.They want you to finance as much as your credit will allow because they get a kickback on any financeing they sell.If you can pay cash,dont.Let them finance as much as they will,just be sure its an open ended finance contract. Then after you get it and need to make the first payment,just pay it off.
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:48 PM   #35
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Oddly, they have not pushed financing through them at all. I'm still expecting a "surprise" before this is all done. I'm going with my local credit unions 4% for 5 years.
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:06 PM   #36
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When you give them the deposit, carefully read anything the push in front of you to sign ( as my dealer said "just to protect me").

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Old 03-23-2015, 10:14 AM   #37
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The true art of negotiations is when you know you have pushed the other party and have their back against the wall. That's when you will know you got the best deal possible. Easier said than done. I think some of us like to get "to cute" with thinking how far we can push a dealer. There is a game that's going to be played one way or the other and one should expect and be as well prepared as possible when the process starts. I noticed the dealer said he would write up a work order. BFD! That's not a contract. When I bought my RV in 2012 everything that I wanted to have done or things I picked up on this website or through PDI were typed right onto the Purchase Contract. No phony PDI fees or get the rig up to shape costs like those who mentioned Camping World.
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:21 PM   #38
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Well, I guess I got a bit lucky, we went out camping once and absolutely everything seems to work just fine. Sure is nice to have a campground all to yourself early in the spring! At the dealer, I did go through all the systems with him, once we had it hooked up to water and and power. It is pretty obvious that the first owner barely used it. My only complaint is the 500 lb bars on the Reese WDH are not quite enough. Also, some normal things like the furnace is too loud and the stereo/dvd is junk. Now it looks like I need a bigger truck, the 2001 GMC Sierra with 4.8L and 3.42 gears is not cutting it, and I don't think and upgrade to 4.10 gears will be worth it, but we'll see. I cannot believe how much they are getting for 8 year old Chevy trucks with less that 100k on them. And most of them need cab corners due to MN rust already.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:37 PM   #39
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New here, just bought an XLR 27HFS, brought my weight distribution hitch with (new in box), while we were going over the overview the mech's pulled my truck inside and put the hitch together and onto the camper, all set up. They filled the propane tanks, showed us how everything works...we were shocked. While we were signing they pulled the truck and trailer out up front and entertained our pets while we were busy (3 Beagles)
No charge for any of the work or prepping. Cheyenne Camping in Walcot Iowa.

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Old 05-26-2015, 06:57 AM   #40
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Here's the way I bought my last 2 TT's and I've been pretty pleased with the results both times. Start by figuring out the floor plan(s) and features you want. I usually do this mostly on line with a trip or two to the dealers in which I am very up front that I am not there to buy. I can be somewhat impulsive at times and this rule is as much for me as the dealer.

I then get some quotes, usually RV Direct, or some dealers on line. I print these out once I figure out what I want to buy and head to the dealer. After I talk to the salesman for a while, usually asking at least a few questions they can't answer. I do this for a couple of reasons, but mostly to show them that I'm not a rookie and know what I'm talking about, but also (in a very polite way) it takes them out of their comfort zone of being the "expert" and therefore in a position of authority.

When the time comes to talk money, I am very candid about my research and even show them the quotes. I admit that I hate dickering and trading numbers back and forth and I make them a proposal. I show them the closest quote, add \ subtract as necessary to true it up for options, features, etc. Then I add the true costs for me to pick it up - gas, lodging, time off, etc. I explain that, when it comes to wholesalers I understand they have to make a profit and that this is of benefit to me because I want a good relationship (I.e. local service) and so I add a few percent to the price and ask them very politely but candidly if they want to sell a camper.

It has worked really well both times a and I have been able to get within a few hundred bucks (+ & -) both times. I have been very satisfied with my results and think I got very good deals. Could I have turned their arms and saved a few hundred buck, maybe but with a lot more work, haggling and stress. But having a good relationship with a local dealer is important to me too.

Anyway, just my .02 and it works for me.

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