Wheel Bearings repack

[YoungKopernik]

I check races and repack bearings every spring as well as putting a couple of pumps threw the ultra-lube a couple a times a season. I also put a hand on the hub or lug nuts(have pretty hubcaps) at a few gas stops to check for excessive heat. My next investment is one of those tire pressure/temp monitoring systems.
I have found problems like a broken brake-spring, broken brake pad, pitted/sloppy bearings or a leaking seal, but more times than not it’s just for peace of mind. Looking at all the parts that stand between my happy vacation and the ground; all the campers weight and friction are between spindles and hubs with the bearing sets and grease keeping things moving. I am surprised that I don’t find more problems, with all the torque put on the bearings backing into many places.
One more step, I didn’t see posted, after doing bearings I do a 5-10ml tow and then I do the jack-up and tire wiggle for bearing tightness/slop for any final adjustment(maybe just for fun).
It’s a timely messy job, I just figure its part of owning/being a happy camper.
John

[tom50mg]

Take into account the price of new seals,about 20.00,price of the new grease,take apart all of the bearings,wash everything with solvent,about 6 bucks a gallon,check the bearings and races,clean and sand brake shoes,lube backing plates where the the shoes ride,reassemble everything and finally adjust the brakes.....if you can get all that done for under 250.00 bucks,go for it! Oh,and don,t forget to buy double lipped seals.

[TeJay]

New to the forum but here's my TCW (Two Cents Worth),
This is what I do and have done & taught for 40 years. I would never use the grease gun to replace WB lube. That method is bound to cause problems. First, the holes for the grease to pass through are small so they make the grease thinner. This will lead to some over packing the hub ( if 2 squirts are good then 4 is better) and in many instances pushing the inner seals out and ruining the shoes. I repack by hand and only use synthetic lube (Mobil 1 or Amzoil) These lubes will outlast standard lube 10 to 1. Bearing slack, pre-load, or clearance should be between .001 & .003. Check by raising the tire off the ground and grab it at 6 and 12 O'clock and move from side to side. You should feel it move but just barely. If you can hear it it is probably to much. This clearance is to allow for some expansion when they get warm. I got this info from a Bear alignment rep who spent a lot of time at the Indy track working on those fine machines. How often should you do it. Every 2-4 years. Most trucks/cars were/are done every 30-40,000 miles. If you do it more often it's wasted $$$$ and you open yourself up to possible errors or problems.
If you want/need more info PM me.

TeJay

[TeJay]

Tom50mg,
While I agree that's about what I would do I doubt most shops would not do the same. They probably would not use synthetic grease either. Here's some info about synthetic lube. These are facts not hear say or rumors but I won't post all the details. A racer friend would pack his bearings after every race. If he didn't they would be ruined by the end of the next race. His friend told him to use Amzoil synthetic grease. Finally he gave him a tube. He packed the bearings and didn't touch them, except for checking the adjustment until the end of the racing season. I've used synthetic lube and oil for 30 years and would use nothing less. I will always use what ever I can to gain even a small advantage. Take it for what it's worth.
JMTCW

TeJay

[BigTJohn]

Tejay - Great info - too much messing around with what is good will, eventually, make it bad. Too much or not enough - a fine line that should not be crossed. Also on the syn lubes - great advice. I use syn lube in almost everything I own and have not had one lubrication problem in 25 years.

[Pete Jensen]

I have a 2013 Cedar Creek 34 RLSA and the trailer has close to 25K on it and I just repacked the bearing, the bearing looked good, I used High temp grease