SOLD OUT: Dometic Power Awning Tie Down Kit

[OldCoot]

Only 2 sets left at the BIB sale price of $75. When those 2 are gone, the new price will be $100 + $10 shipping tube + UPS.

[SYE]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Only 2 sets left at the BIB sale price of $75. When those 2 are gone, the new price will be $100 + $10 shipping tube + UPS.

I have a question, will the poles hang down past the the oherhang in the front or will they collapse small enough to not. I have attached a pic of my camper hopefully you can figure out what I am talking about.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by syencer

I have a question, will the poles hang down past the the oherhang in the front or will they collapse small enough to not. I have attached a pic of my camper hopefully you can figure out what I am talking about.

They are adjustable sy so they will slide together so as not to hang past 5er front.

Might be good to get some measurements so OC CAN make them to your spec.


Awning extended height from roler to ground.
And awning retracted roller to bottom of arm.


Turbs

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by syencer

I have a question, will the poles hang down past the the oherhang in the front or will they collapse small enough to not. I have attached a pic of my camper hopefully you can figure out what I am talking about.

The stow length is 73" and the arms are 63", so you would have to cut 10" off the bottom of the inner poles. Seeing as how this in the end opposite of the door, it would tilt the awning away from the door end. Max height on the short end would be 109" max. Additional holes can be added as there would still be 20" inside the outer tube available for the additional holes. I would not recommend less than 10" overlap of the tubes.

RVChick had the same condition and just cut the inner pole off.

BTW, the pvc is grey and will be a good match without painting.

[SYE]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

They are adjustable sy so they will slide together so as not to hang past 5er front.

Might be good to get some measurements so OC CAN make them to your spec.


Awning extended height from roler to ground.
And awning retracted roller to bottom of arm.


Turbs

Thanks Ron


Scott

[SYE]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The stow length is 73" and the arms are 63", so you would have to cut 10" off the bottom of the inner poles. Seeing as how this in the end opposite of the door, it would tilt the awning away from the door end. Max height on the short end would be 109" max. Additional holes can be added as there would still be 20" inside the outer tube available for the additional holes. I would not recommend less than 10" overlap of the tubes.

RVChick had the same condition and just cut the inner pole off.

BTW, the pvc is grey and will be a good match without painting.

Thanks for the info OC, let me think about it

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by syencer

Thanks for the info OC, let me think about it

You'll be happy you purchased if you do.
Especially if its windy in your area!

[SYE]

I am still contemplating it, Right now I am using my Homade Redneck Tie Downs!!!! But the DW says nthe camper is too pretty to use them, but she does not want ant holes drilled.

[jtstromsburg]

I have added a set of the tie down poles on my last tt and my new fiver. The only holes that have to be drilled are in the awning arms themselves, and they are just 3/16. I painted mine black to match my fiver accessories and they look great and function even better. When the wind blows a but, people are always telling me i better stow the awning, but haven't had to yet.

[BarryD0706]

Can I ask please: Why are poles needed?

It kinda seems like you've come to that conclusion as well since you're using PVC now.
The only reason I can see is because people are going to over-tighten the tie-down straps. If you just leave the down straps a little loose, they'll prevent the awning from going up, and there's already fabric and arms that prevents it from coming down isn't there?

[jtstromsburg]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

Can I ask please: Why are poles needed?

It kinda seems like you've come to that conclusion as well since you're using PVC now.
The only reason I can see is because people are going to over-tighten the tie-down straps. If you just leave the down straps a little loose, they'll prevent the awning from going up, and there's already fabric and arms that prevents it from coming down isn't there?

If you've been in wind with a power awning, tied down or not, with out support poles you'd probably know. There is tremendous bounce and overall scariness. At least for me. I simply didn't use my awning unless perfectly calm Before.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by jtstromsburg

If you've been in wind with a power awning, tired down or not, with out support poles you'd probably know. There is tremendous bounce and overall scariness. At least for me. I simply didn't use my awning unless perfectly calm Before.

X2

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

Can I ask please: Why are poles needed?

It kinda seems like you've come to that conclusion as well since you're using PVC now.
The only reason I can see is because people are going to over-tighten the tie-down straps. If you just leave the down straps a little loose, they'll prevent the awning from going up, and there's already fabric and arms that prevents it from coming down isn't there?

Trying to tie down without the poles puts all the flapping force on the awning arm brackets that are (in my case) pop riveted to the wall. It would not take much movement to work the pop rivets through the aluminum rib that the awning is pop riveted to.

The legs put all the force holding the awning down on the legs; through the awning material to the long awning retention rail and not on the awning extension support arms.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by syencer

I am still contemplating it, Right now I am using my Homade Redneck Tie Downs!!!! But the DW says nthe camper is too pretty to use them, but she does not want ant holes drilled.

The only holes drilled are for the stow brackets and they are (2) 3/16" holes for pop rivets in each arm, no holes drilled in the camper. My first ones on the camper were velcroed to the arm. Put the fuzzy side on the arm and used the pin side on the poles. They held all the way to FL and I came up with the brackets. If you remove the brackets for any reason, you can put rivets in the holes and paint the rivet heads.

[Witch Doctor]

My God OLDCOOT, you have quite a sales team behind you. I agree with the logic behind both Herk and Turbs explanations on the benefits. Plus all the "HAPPY CAMPERS THAT BOUGHT THEM" It is very true what they have posted on the new power awning compared to the non-electric one's that allowed you to put the poles down. Pretty soon we will have to address you as "SIR OLD COOT"

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

My God OLDCOOT, you have quite a sales team behind you. I agree with the logic behind both Herk and Turbs explanations on the benefits. Plus all the "HAPPY CAMPERS THAT BOUGHT THEM" It is very true what they have posted on the new power awning compared to the non-electric one's that allowed you to put the poles down. Pretty soon we will have to address you as "SIR OLD COOT"

Don't give him a big head ..... it's big enough the way it is!

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Don't give him a big head ..... it's big enough the way it is!

Hey, I p-resent that. Only 6-5/8!

[OldCoot]

BTW, the BIB sale is over, last set sold at the reduced price of $85 + UPS is going to Canada. Will ask moderators to put SOLD OUT on the thread. I will post a new thread.

THANK YOU EVERYONE for your purchases. We here at D&D Chassis sincerely thank each and every one of you. See you in Goshen.