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Old 01-09-2015, 02:01 PM   #11
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Has any one gotten an EZ Oil Drain Valve that's been advertised in MH mag? It looks pretty neat I'm thinking about putting one on next oil change that I do.
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:42 PM   #12
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I've changed oil both ways - have had NCV-3 Sprinters since first out in '07 & currently have two. I much prefer to change from the top - to each his own.

And btw - no need for snide comments. This is supposed to be a friendly exchange of ideas. I presumed everyone knew it could be done from below & just wanted to pass on that the engineers who design it, approved of doing it with a pump-out from the top.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:02 PM   #13
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I've changed oil both ways - have had NCV-3 Sprinters since first out in '07 & currently have two. I much prefer to change from the top - to each his own.

And btw - no need for snide comments. This is supposed to be a friendly exchange of ideas. I presumed everyone knew it could be done from below & just wanted to pass on that the engineers who design it, approved of doing it with a pump-out from the top.
I see your new to the FR forum. The comments in this thread were not "snide" as you might realize upon re-reading the posts therein. This forum offers a wealth of information, so contribute as you see fit, and please refrain from the negative tone. IMO
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:06 AM   #14
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Jmaley, if your comment is directed at me, I in no way intended to be "snide".
I merely wanted others to understand that there was no need to purchase any additional equipment other than a filter wrench. I have been changing oil in all of my vehicles for over 50 years and like to keep things simple.

Enjoy your travels and camping!

For those of you that might like to use the evac method, here is video to show that it is also easy.
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:01 AM   #15
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Mikegjax, I think for over $100 for this pump I'll stick with unplugging the oil pan screw, but as I stated earlier I am looking into one of those EZ oil drain valves, their only $20 some. Happy Camping and keep posting the different ideas, there always worth looking at.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:45 AM   #16
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FYI:
Please go to: 1st oil change



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Old 02-05-2015, 06:00 PM   #17
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Re the oil change...am from the Dayton area and just purchased my used 2011 Solera last August and took it out twice. Not really trusting the dealer that the oil WAS changed before purchase, I inquired at a local truck service(Sprinter) dealer in the area re what they would charge to change the 12 qrts. of oil (Mobil Synth) and the filter. They calmly told me $400 (!!)! I asked again, in disbelief and they replied the same, this time with a smile. I'm sure they read my mind at that point. So, I went to the parts counter instead and bought my 12 qrts of Mobil 1 ESP standard(which is the MB-Approval 229.51/229.31) 5W-30 synthetic and the filter cartridge. I also needed the proprietary filter housing wrench cap which I bought locally for around $15- (if my memory serves...) and then was good to go. Run the engine warm, then simply easily wiggle underneath and open the pan oil plug (DON'T lose the plug crush ring which is part of the plug!). Lose the crush ring(aka "washer") and you'll NEVER keep that expensive oil leaking from the oil pan! Oh, you can buy the bigger 15-qrt oil pan at Walmart, which you will need! Anyway, warm the oil well by running the engine (or drive it a few miles), and then drain the oil thoroughly until it's stopped dripping. THEN remove the oil filter housing and you'll avoid dripping a lot of that black oil all over the engine. Clean the inside of the housing well, and then lubricate (important!) the "O" ring that's on the housing base and also the smaller "o" ring on the plastic insert that goes through the cartridge itself...lube both with fresh Mobil oil very lightly to prevent them from squirming when you are seating(screwing) the housing down onto the base. If not, you risk a malformed ring and a healthy, messy, oil leak thereafter. Not good.
Actually, aside from the usual precautions mentioned above, the entire process takes around 1/2 hr. (not counting how long it takes for the oil to completely drain from the pan?). Not counting the filter wrench which I had to buy I spent approx. $110- to do it myself vs. the quoted $400 (!!) as mentioned earlier. Yes, once a yr. is a good plan for this engine, even with minimum mileage, as you don't want to screw up the cam bearings, and such, from letting that corrosive oil sit in there all winter if in a semi-storage situation. If you can drive yr. round then simply keep an eye on your mileage too. Synthetic is the only way to go and I run it in all my vehicles(tho I use Walmart Synthetic in my other non-MB engines with great results and cold weather start-up's). The Mobil ESP "MUST" be used in the Mercedes tho to prevent ash buildup(clogging\damage!)) in the particulate filter within the engine. I've seen the ESP oil and filter even cheaper on Amazon and eBay and will go that route probably next time! But...$400??!! D*mn...
DO IT YOURSELF, ALWAYS, AND USE THE REST OF THE $$ FOR GAS! HAPPY TRAILS!
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:07 PM   #18
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Ouch, OUCH Mr Kreck!! Stay away from "any" EZ drain devices!! Drag your oil pan over anything hi enuf to contact the valve on that thing and guess what...you just lost a $15,000 engine!! Please don't fall for that one...is NOT worth taking the chance!! All of the manufactures would have them on the pans if they were safe, right? Especially Mercedes!!? I've heard too many horror stories with those things so stay away. Warning, WARNING, Master Robinson(remember Robbie the Robot way back when?). Do it the right way, ok, and trust the engineers who designed the engine...they know what they do! Thnx! Now my BP has come back down and please don't take "offense"... ;]
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:56 PM   #19
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I am with you Pixelbum. I change mine also, but I do use the Mobil 1 5X40 like MB recommends. The local MB dealer has it for $8.25 qt. The oil I just purchased online, delivered to the door $8.22 qt.

Your can get the copper crush washer should you loose one at Advance Auto Parts. They also have the filters under the Purolator brand. When you open the filter box you see a filter that was made in Germany.

Still the easiest oil change I have ever accomplished.
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pixelbum1 View Post
Re the oil change...am from the Dayton area and just purchased my used 2011 Solera last August and took it out twice. Not really trusting the dealer that the oil WAS changed before purchase, I inquired at a local truck service(Sprinter) dealer in the area re what they would charge to change the 12 qrts. of oil (Mobil Synth) and the filter. They calmly told me $400 (!!)! I asked again, in disbelief and they replied the same, this time with a smile. I'm sure they read my mind at that point. So, I went to the parts counter instead and bought my 12 qrts of Mobil 1 ESP standard(which is the MB-Approval 229.51/229.31) 5W-30 synthetic and the filter cartridge. I also needed the proprietary filter housing wrench cap which I bought locally for around $15- (if my memory serves...) and then was good to go. Run the engine warm, then simply easily wiggle underneath and open the pan oil plug (DON'T xlose the plug crush ring which is part of the plug!). Lose the crush ring(aka "washer") and you'll NEVER keep that expensive oil leaking from the oil pan! Oh, you can buy the bigger 15-qrt oil pan at Walmart, which you will need! Anyway, warm the oil well by running the engine (or drive it a few miles), and then drain the oil thoroughly until it's stopped dripping. THEN remove theč oil filter housing and you'll avoid dripping a lot of that black oil all over the engine. Clean the inside of the housing well, and then lubricate (important!) the "O" ring that's on the housing base and also the smaller "o" ring on the plastic insert that goes through the cartridge itself...lube both with fresh Mobil oil very lightly to prevent them from squirming when you are seating(screwing) the housing down onto the base. If not, you risk a malformed ring and a healthy, messy, oil leak thereafter. Not good.
Actually, aside from the usual precautions mentioned above, the entire process takes around 1/2 hr. (not counting how long it takes for the oil to completely drain from the pan?). Not counting the filter wrench which I had to buy I spent approx. $110- to do it myself vs. the quoted $400 (!!) as mentioned earlier. Yes, once a yr. is a good plan for this engine, even with minimum mileage, as you don't want to screw up the cam bearings, and such, from letting that corrosive oil sit in there all winter if in a semi-storage situation. If you can drive yr. round then simply keep an eye on your mileage too. Synthetic is the only way to go and I run it in all my vehicles(tho I use Walmart Synthetic in my other non-MB engines with great results and cold weather start-up's). The Mobil ESP "MUST" be used in the Mercedes tho to prevent ash buildup(clogging\damage!)) in the particulate filter within the engine. I've seen the ESP oil and filter even cheaper on Amazon and eBay and will go that route probably next time! But...$400??!! D*mn...
DO IT YOURSELF, ALWAYS, AND USE THE REST OF THE $$ FOR GAS! HAPPY TRAILS!
Pixelbum, one pointer for you.Your MB engine will sense if you happened to over-fill it and will tell you after a period of run time. It's a good idea to measure the oil drained out and replace that volume during your change, regardless of what your specs tell you. Oh, and of course check the dip stick before and after to get your bench marks. Just sayin'
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