1st oil change and subwoofer

[pcbikenski]

Hi all,
I'm the new. owner of a 2015 Solera S. I have some questions.
Is the first oil change really not due till 15k? Has anyone added a subwoofer to their unit? How does your dealer treat you? Mine can't fix my propane gauge and they don't follow up on promises. All and all, We love it!!
Thanks for your input!
Pcbikenski

[Sandiegodoug]

Ours was at 10,000
I did find it a little low and added a quart before change so check it
Our dealer was terrible. Only good thing I would say is they stock solera's to buy and finally fixed our problem after 3 try's and I told them how to fix. Units been trouble free since.
I'm sure most dealers are good.



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[Mikegjax]

You should have a sub woofer under the dinette seat.

[Still Kickin]

MB specs are 10K. You will receive notification from your instrument cluster. If you plan on doing it yourself, you can save quite a bit of $. I strongly suggest you read up on this forum from previous posts, on things like resetting the service indicator, that will display from the cluster, along with the proper oil. The type of oil is extremely important.

[Ecopco]

Starting with the 2014 Sprinter Chassis the recommended first oil change is 15,000 miles or 1 year.
http://www.mbsprinterusa.com/files/m...nce_Manual.pdf


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[Jnkier]

10,000 miles

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Ecopco

Starting with the 2014 Sprinter Chassis the recommended first oil change is 15,000 miles or 1 year.
http://www.mbsprinterusa.com/files/m...nce_Manual.pdf


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Interesting. So, does the cluster start ringing at or near 15K then. Has anyone have actual expierence. Wonder why they think another 5 K on the oil is ok. Just wonderikng.

[Ecopco]

I'm going to change mine at 10,000 or 1 year which in my case will probably be about the same time.


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[jmaley]

Miles between oil changes has always been 15,000 in Europe. It was set at 10,000 in the U.S. because Dodge wanted to get people in more often to sell them more services. MB went along with it because they were worried that some might not use the right oil. No problem now that Dodge is no longer involved.

You might want to have the dealer do it until the warranty is off - or if you do it yourself, meticulously document it in case you need repairs.

It is very easy to change the oil and the advantage, in addition to saving money, is that you can guarantee the correct oil is used - extremely important.
To change the oil: you need the correct socket and torque wrench for the cap on top the oil filter, a new filter, enough of the correct oil, and a pump like is used for boat oil changes. Warm the engine, pump out the old oil thru the dipstick, unscrew the cap on the filter and replace the element, then replace the amount you removed with the new. Run the engine a while and recheck the oil. Also, always recheck after driving a little to make sure you didn't screw anything up.

According to one of the engineers who developed the NCV-3 version, it was designed to have the oil changed from the top. It can be done wearing white glove once you've had a practice run. All of above from the Sprinter Forum - highly recommended if you have a Sprinter based MH.

[Mikegjax]

The oil drain plug in the pan is very easy access without crawling under or jacking the RV. I don't know why you would want to pump the oil through the dip stick tube. I change the oil in mine myself and it is the easiest oil change I have ever accomplished. The filter sits on front of the engine and is accessed from the top. Also easy to change.

I keep all receipts for oil and filter along with recording when the change was accomplished.

BTW, the cheapest oil (other than online) was from the MB dealer.

[hkreck]

Has any one gotten an EZ Oil Drain Valve that's been advertised in MH mag? It looks pretty neat I'm thinking about putting one on next oil change that I do.

[jmaley]

I've changed oil both ways - have had NCV-3 Sprinters since first out in '07 & currently have two. I much prefer to change from the top - to each his own.

And btw - no need for snide comments. This is supposed to be a friendly exchange of ideas. I presumed everyone knew it could be done from below & just wanted to pass on that the engineers who design it, approved of doing it with a pump-out from the top.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by jmaley

I've changed oil both ways - have had NCV-3 Sprinters since first out in '07 & currently have two. I much prefer to change from the top - to each his own.

And btw - no need for snide comments. This is supposed to be a friendly exchange of ideas. I presumed everyone knew it could be done from below & just wanted to pass on that the engineers who design it, approved of doing it with a pump-out from the top.

I see your new to the FR forum. The comments in this thread were not "snide" as you might realize upon re-reading the posts therein. This forum offers a wealth of information, so contribute as you see fit, and please refrain from the negative tone. IMO

[Mikegjax]

Jmaley, if your comment is directed at me, I in no way intended to be "snide".
I merely wanted others to understand that there was no need to purchase any additional equipment other than a filter wrench. I have been changing oil in all of my vehicles for over 50 years and like to keep things simple.

Enjoy your travels and camping!

For those of you that might like to use the evac method, here is video to show that it is also easy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqIpLWJX9qU

[hkreck]

Mikegjax, I think for over $100 for this pump I'll stick with unplugging the oil pan screw, but as I stated earlier I am looking into one of those EZ oil drain valves, their only $20 some. Happy Camping and keep posting the different ideas, there always worth looking at.

[CaptDan]

FYI:
Please go to: 1st oil change

[Pixelbum1]

Re the oil change...am from the Dayton area and just purchased my used 2011 Solera last August and took it out twice. Not really trusting the dealer that the oil WAS changed before purchase, I inquired at a local truck service(Sprinter) dealer in the area re what they would charge to change the 12 qrts. of oil (Mobil Synth) and the filter. They calmly told me $400 (!!)! I asked again, in disbelief and they replied the same, this time with a smile. I'm sure they read my mind at that point. So, I went to the parts counter instead and bought my 12 qrts of Mobil 1 ESP standard(which is the MB-Approval 229.51/229.31) 5W-30 synthetic and the filter cartridge. I also needed the proprietary filter housing wrench cap which I bought locally for around $15- (if my memory serves...) and then was good to go. Run the engine warm, then simply easily wiggle underneath and open the pan oil plug (DON'T lose the plug crush ring which is part of the plug!). Lose the crush ring(aka "washer") and you'll NEVER keep that expensive oil leaking from the oil pan! Oh, you can buy the bigger 15-qrt oil pan at Walmart, which you will need! Anyway, warm the oil well by running the engine (or drive it a few miles), and then drain the oil thoroughly until it's stopped dripping. THEN remove the oil filter housing and you'll avoid dripping a lot of that black oil all over the engine. Clean the inside of the housing well, and then lubricate (important!) the "O" ring that's on the housing base and also the smaller "o" ring on the plastic insert that goes through the cartridge itself...lube both with fresh Mobil oil very lightly to prevent them from squirming when you are seating(screwing) the housing down onto the base. If not, you risk a malformed ring and a healthy, messy, oil leak thereafter. Not good.
Actually, aside from the usual precautions mentioned above, the entire process takes around 1/2 hr. (not counting how long it takes for the oil to completely drain from the pan?). Not counting the filter wrench which I had to buy I spent approx. $110- to do it myself vs. the quoted $400 (!!) as mentioned earlier. Yes, once a yr. is a good plan for this engine, even with minimum mileage, as you don't want to screw up the cam bearings, and such, from letting that corrosive oil sit in there all winter if in a semi-storage situation. If you can drive yr. round then simply keep an eye on your mileage too. Synthetic is the only way to go and I run it in all my vehicles(tho I use Walmart Synthetic in my other non-MB engines with great results and cold weather start-up's). The Mobil ESP "MUST" be used in the Mercedes tho to prevent ash buildup(clogging\damage!)) in the particulate filter within the engine. I've seen the ESP oil and filter even cheaper on Amazon and eBay and will go that route probably next time! But...$400??!! D*mn...
DO IT YOURSELF, ALWAYS, AND USE THE REST OF THE $$ FOR GAS! HAPPY TRAILS!

[Pixelbum1]

Ouch, OUCH Mr Kreck!! Stay away from "any" EZ drain devices!! Drag your oil pan over anything hi enuf to contact the valve on that thing and guess what...you just lost a $15,000 engine!! Please don't fall for that one...is NOT worth taking the chance!! All of the manufactures would have them on the pans if they were safe, right? Especially Mercedes!!? I've heard too many horror stories with those things so stay away. Warning, WARNING, Master Robinson(remember Robbie the Robot way back when?). Do it the right way, ok, and trust the engineers who designed the engine...they know what they do! Thnx! Now my BP has come back down and please don't take "offense"... ;]

[Mikegjax]

I am with you Pixelbum. I change mine also, but I do use the Mobil 1 5X40 like MB recommends. The local MB dealer has it for $8.25 qt. The oil I just purchased online, delivered to the door $8.22 qt.

Your can get the copper crush washer should you loose one at Advance Auto Parts. They also have the filters under the Purolator brand. When you open the filter box you see a filter that was made in Germany.

Still the easiest oil change I have ever accomplished.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Pixelbum1

Re the oil change...am from the Dayton area and just purchased my used 2011 Solera last August and took it out twice. Not really trusting the dealer that the oil WAS changed before purchase, I inquired at a local truck service(Sprinter) dealer in the area re what they would charge to change the 12 qrts. of oil (Mobil Synth) and the filter. They calmly told me $400 (!!)! I asked again, in disbelief and they replied the same, this time with a smile. I'm sure they read my mind at that point. So, I went to the parts counter instead and bought my 12 qrts of Mobil 1 ESP standard(which is the MB-Approval 229.51/229.31) 5W-30 synthetic and the filter cartridge. I also needed the proprietary filter housing wrench cap which I bought locally for around $15- (if my memory serves...) and then was good to go. Run the engine warm, then simply easily wiggle underneath and open the pan oil plug (DON'T xlose the plug crush ring which is part of the plug!). Lose the crush ring(aka "washer") and you'll NEVER keep that expensive oil leaking from the oil pan! Oh, you can buy the bigger 15-qrt oil pan at Walmart, which you will need! Anyway, warm the oil well by running the engine (or drive it a few miles), and then drain the oil thoroughly until it's stopped dripping. THEN remove theè oil filter housing and you'll avoid dripping a lot of that black oil all over the engine. Clean the inside of the housing well, and then lubricate (important!) the "O" ring that's on the housing base and also the smaller "o" ring on the plastic insert that goes through the cartridge itself...lube both with fresh Mobil oil very lightly to prevent them from squirming when you are seating(screwing) the housing down onto the base. If not, you risk a malformed ring and a healthy, messy, oil leak thereafter. Not good.
Actually, aside from the usual precautions mentioned above, the entire process takes around 1/2 hr. (not counting how long it takes for the oil to completely drain from the pan?). Not counting the filter wrench which I had to buy I spent approx. $110- to do it myself vs. the quoted $400 (!!) as mentioned earlier. Yes, once a yr. is a good plan for this engine, even with minimum mileage, as you don't want to screw up the cam bearings, and such, from letting that corrosive oil sit in there all winter if in a semi-storage situation. If you can drive yr. round then simply keep an eye on your mileage too. Synthetic is the only way to go and I run it in all my vehicles(tho I use Walmart Synthetic in my other non-MB engines with great results and cold weather start-up's). The Mobil ESP "MUST" be used in the Mercedes tho to prevent ash buildup(clogging\damage!)) in the particulate filter within the engine. I've seen the ESP oil and filter even cheaper on Amazon and eBay and will go that route probably next time! But...$400??!! D*mn...
DO IT YOURSELF, ALWAYS, AND USE THE REST OF THE $$ FOR GAS! HAPPY TRAILS!

Pixelbum, one pointer for you.Your MB engine will sense if you happened to over-fill it and will tell you after a period of run time. It's a good idea to measure the oil drained out and replace that volume during your change, regardless of what your specs tell you. Oh, and of course check the dip stick before and after to get your bench marks. Just sayin'