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Old 04-03-2013, 07:40 PM   #1
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Battery Isolator-12V from Ignition

Anybody knows were the wire from the ignition to the bayyery isolator manager is coming from?
Reason for my question: coach battery is not getting charged while driving, and my guess is it is not the BIM or the relay - just not getting the 12V from the ignition,
I addition, the slideout and the awning should be blocked out with the ignition on - it is not. I guess it is the same problem not having the 12 Volts from the ignition getting back to the control center. I believe the orange wire should bring the voltage to the circuit board (it is not) and then a red one should supply it to the BIM....
Where does that wire from the ignition originate, is there a fuse in between somewhere?
Any help is appreciated.....thanks
Hans
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:46 AM   #2
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My hope is that one of those knowledgable factory reps will chime in....there is a orange wire going into the circuit board on the left of the Battery Manager, and I think it is labeled IGN IN. To the left is a red cable coming out of the circuit board going into the Battery Manager...
So I believe not getting the 12 v thru that orange wire into the circuit board (never, ignition on or even with running engine) does not power the BMI!

I am hoping that there ia a fuse somewhere in that orange wire from that circuit board leading to the ignition....I just need to find it.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:43 PM   #3
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I'll ask the engineers. At one time I thought Mercedes did not want us to tie into their battery system. So who knows. As for the slide being blocked out, I would not be so sure about that. We just started the ignition block out recently.

I know some people were like "what if a kid hits the slide button while driving" but its not like the slide out goes out instantly. You have to push and hold the button and you'd hear it for sure.

Nonetheless, I'll see what I can find out. What year? Floor Plan?
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:28 AM   #4
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Bclemens, thank you for helping! Its a 24R, 2013 - brand new,got it 10 days ago.......it never worked! I hope its just a fuse or maybe they forgot to hook up the cable to the ignition???????
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:16 PM   #5
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After countless hours I solved my problem!
I am a bit disappointed about the FR service....I was in phone contact first with the dealership in Des Moines....I did not get much help from there. Instead I was told to go to next FR authorized warranty center, a camping world 45 miles away. They just scratched their head, unable to do anything..(at least the did not charge me)
Next day off in the opposte direction - 55 miles away, a big place with at least 2 Soleras on the lot: You did not buy from us, no warranty work...
Called another place and actually got an appointment for the coming Wednesday: "....but this is a strange problem, we doubt we can fix it" !!!

On the phone again with the dealership and got a phone number directly to FR, and that person was really helpful by asking the experts in the plant. At least he found out that that orange cable I was talking about in my first post is connected to the steps...there should be an inline fuse and that one most prob is blown...(there was no fuse)
That was the first clue. With the switch for the steps in the Off postion and the ignition ON the steps did not retract during the demo, and I was told the switch has to be in the ON position to make it work - that was wrong.

So I started digging away the foam behind the steps .....found a yellow blank cable with blank ends (coming from the steps) and a blank orange cable embedded in the foam pretty quick - but still no power with ignition on.
More digging and another hour laying underneath the coach I found a 3rd blank (orange) cable - and that carried the 12 V from the ignition. Actually the wires were a bit to short, and I guess when they were pushed up and back somebody ripped them off and covered the whole mess with foam.
Off to the next auto store, got a roll of wire, a crimping tool, connectors, tape and foam - total of 45$ in Parts. Connected everything - now my coach battery is charging while driving, steps retract when I turn the ignition, awning and slide do not move anymore with the engine running..
I saved FR a lot of money, but when I asked whether they at least chip in for the fuel burned and the parts....negative....and all that with a brand new MH...
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:21 PM   #6
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Who told you "negative" on reimbursing for parts?
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:42 PM   #7
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That's pathetic. Forest River needs to completely rethink and re-engineer its customer support. From NO MANUALS to NOT MY RESPONSIBILITY responses, I'm surprised FR stays in business, particularly since the RV market is both small enough for word to get around and it's a business where repeat customers are important. If a car dealer ever denied taking a look at a possible warranty problem for a car purchased from another dealership, they would put their own dealership into jeopardy. But I guess Warren Buffet doesn't give a sh** about FR's longevity - he's going to be dead soon anyway. Just sell as many as quick as possible using the 1970's US car manufacturing theory that if it goes out the factory door broken, the dealer will fix it. But in FR's case, it goes out the factory door broken AND THE DEALER WON'T FIX IT EITHER.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:50 PM   #8
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Whoa, whoa, whoa. Someone's had a bad day.

Before jumping to more conclusions, he never said who said "no". Which is why "I" the factory that does not care, has asked.

So Loefflerh, please PM me the dealers you spoke with as well as who told you "negative". I am 100% sure we can come to an agreement.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:59 PM   #9
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"You did not buy from us, no warranty work..."

Is that FR's policy? Dealers may refuse warranty work if not purchased there?
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:25 PM   #10
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On every brochure we explain our policy and on the dealer locator shown here...
Forest River RV Dealer Locator :: Forest River RV

These are independently owned and operated dealerships. This is not "our" policy, this is a dealer choice.

Just about every other RV mfg has similar language on their website (I know, I've looked). A Ford dealer could tell you to take your unit elsewhere...it's just not in the best interest of that dealership.

Before we make a mountain out of a mole hill...he was given multiple dealerships that would do the work even if he didn't buy from them. I rarely see this come up (just search the forum) and we don't know the whole conversation, they could have had a backlog of their own customers already.

I will say all dealers are expected to (and from what I can tell, do) service your unit as a priority if you are traveling outside of your home area.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:21 PM   #11
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Wow...I did not want to start that discussion! I am a happy camper now, so far everything is working again and I love the coach!
And for making things clearer - I am 1200 miles away from home, and 4hrs / away from the dealership I bought it from - so no tools and unfamiliar with the area I am in right now. And M.....from FR helped me a lot by asking the engeneeres and giving me the final clue (behind the steps) where to look for, he was expecting a blown fuse and I found the blank wires....we were on the phone multiple times. And for a couple of bucks I am not filing a claim!!!!! (Bclemens will get a PM with the names)

I discovered something else, which might be be a design flaw. Lets say you are traveling with freezing temps, you have water in your tanks because you want to stay overnight. No problem, because we have the Arctic Pac, right? Wrong......!
Assuming fully charged batteries and you start driving, your AP will work initially - as soon as the voltage from the coach battery drops below 13.3 V (actually it happens pretty quick) it will shut off. Your chassis battery is getting charged - it should have somewhere around 14V, the coach battery NOT - by design. For the coach battery to receive a charge (thru the battery manager) the voltage has to drop to somewhere around 12.7V and then bingo: the battery mangager says its time to charge the coach - voltage on the coach battery goes to somewhere close to 14V and the Arctic Pac is working...
One way to work around it is turn on all your lights to bring the battery down to 12.7 v so the Battery manager starts allowing a charge to the coach battery...

One more thing if somebody has to do some troubleshooting around that BIM or Isolator relay: the schematics you find on the internet call for 12V across the terminals at the isolator relay - if not, replace the Battery Manager it says. It is around 5V on the new units (NOT 12), that was very misleading during my troubleshooting and nobody kew about it.
Hans
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:48 PM   #12
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Get a fifth wheel, they don't have these problems. They don't even need a motor to go down the road... LOL
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Wills View Post
That's pathetic. Forest River needs to completely rethink and re-engineer its customer support. From NO MANUALS to NOT MY RESPONSIBILITY responses, I'm surprised FR stays in business, particularly since the RV market is both small enough for word to get around and it's a business where repeat customers are important. If a car dealer ever denied taking a look at a possible warranty problem for a car purchased from another dealership, they would put their own dealership into jeopardy. But I guess Warren Buffet doesn't give a sh** about FR's longevity - he's going to be dead soon anyway. Just sell as many as quick as possible using the 1970's US car manufacturing theory that if it goes out the factory door broken, the dealer will fix it. But in FR's case, it goes out the factory door broken AND THE DEALER WON'T FIX IT EITHER.
My goodness, I hope you don't think anyone else is better, cause they aren't. Except maybe Prevost (I assume)... I do agree that the overall industry is pretty pathetic on construction and service, but Hey we just keep buying them and fixing them... and trading them and buying them etc..
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:12 PM   #14
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I guess I have really been lucky that the dealer we got ours from goes way out of their way to help. Had an issue on TT about five hours from home and they called and arranged to have it fixed there. Every time I have had problems it has been resolved quickly and they are really nice. We are amazed at how many little things come up but Bob Ledord's Adventure Motor Homes has been really great on both TT and. Fifth wheel we bought there.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:28 PM   #15
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Who said FR is not standing behind their product?

Actually the case was closed for me, that problem solved and almost forgotten. Today I received a call from M...from FR, he wanted to know how things worked out and whether the problem is solved - and for all the frustration I went thru he promised to sent out a nice check (I did not ask for it!) which exceeds the 45$ I spent for parts, that includes a voltmeter and a cheap crimping tool I keep in the coach for future happenings....
I told you before I am a happy camper again! Thanks BC..

Hans
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:59 PM   #16
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i am confused by your terminology. what do you mean by an orange blank cable or a yellow blank cable? are you indicating a colored wire with no other stripe on it?
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:09 AM   #17
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the yellow and the orange cable were uniform in color and should have been connected to each other; instead on each wire the ends were blank (the copper exposed).
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:18 AM   #18
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got it! so yours never worked properly. mine appears to have stopped working as in the current thread on this topic.

Thanks. i'll have a look underneath. hope i dont have a bare 12v wire hanging down there somewhere near the chassis!
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:30 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz View Post
Get a fifth wheel, they don't have these problems. They don't even need a motor to go down the road... LOL
No...but I'm guessing they need a motor to go back up that road.
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:56 PM   #20
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BC can you give us the years that the new BIM should read 5v across the terminals and not 12v as Loefferh found out. Just for reference for us DIYers. Thanks
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