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Old 07-21-2013, 07:37 PM   #11
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Oops, I see you said that there was NO battery power either.

If you have no battery power and no 110 power being supplied; you will have NO lights lit because there would be no source of 12 volt power to power the panel LEDs.

If you had a dead battery and no 120 volt AC source to power the converter, it would depend on how dead is dead. As long as your 12 volt battery is putting out at least 6 volts (pretty darn dead) there will be ONE light.

If there are 4 lights lit (in the above situation) you have a fried control board.

Here is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting guide for your system
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #12
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Exactly, but after I tried to enter the slide out (with no success). The 4 lights were still shining bright and clear !

Think I will follow the advice to buy a igarette lighter 12volts tester.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:23 PM   #13
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I don' know if you got all the diagrams for the Solera but if you do, I'm trying to locate the fuse for the power step, I put another post earlier with no answer.
It the wire that provide current when the ignition is turn on.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:49 PM   #14
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Ah, motorhome. So, there is another dimension to consider.

There is a battery control center in the motorhome that does not exist in travle trailers and 5th wheels. There is an over ride that will connect the truck's starting battery to the camper. There is a relay that controls whether the truck battery is connected to the coach batteries or not. It is ONLY supposed to close when the truck engine is running to charge the house batteries. If it has failed closed, the truck battery will power the camper with the engine off.

This is a bad situation since you can kill your starting battery.

This is the generic information for the Georgetown Battery Control center and isolation relay. While it does not apply directly to your camper, the circuitry may very well be similar enough to find and fix your problem.

I have a Solera diagram from 2010 that might be helpful (attached).
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:58 AM   #15
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Things are getting worse instead of improving.

I'm at home now and pluged on 110 volts but the batteries kept on discharging and now everything is really dead.

I know 110 volts is working cause the microwave works fine ! I might use the microwave inside light to lighten my way, ha ha.

Any idea of a step by step check up, what should I check first ?

I'm not very good in machanic but I'm willing to give it a try before I go to the repair shop $$$.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:49 PM   #16
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Finally opened the cargo area and pulled out the converter: Niet, Kaput, no voltage at the exit. Bought another one, waiting for it. Simple but expensive repair. Dealers around (Province of Quebec, Canada) wanted $349 plus 15% tax for one. Finally found a brand new one on EBay for $102 !

Now, still have to find why the coach batteries won't charge on the alternator, related to the converter or not ???
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Pedrodasdas View Post
Finally opened the cargo area and pulled out the converter: Niet, Kaput, no voltage at the exit. Bought another one, waiting for it. Simple but expensive repair. Dealers around (Province of Quebec, Canada) wanted $349 plus 15% tax for one. Finally found a brand new one on EBay for $102 !

Now, still have to find why the coach batteries won't charge on the alternator, related to the converter or not ???
Sorry, I can't help. All this is way above me! Wish you luck, and hope you get to the bottom of the problem.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:33 PM   #18
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Just converted to two 6 volt batteries. No room in my 2011 for four batteries.

And I had to raise the cover up an inch to accommodate the higher profile of the golf cart batteries.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:11 AM   #19
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Pedrodasdas - Here are some steps I would take if I had this problem. Tools needed - a digital voltmeter (Cheap one from auto store, walmart, etc is fine) and an automotive 12 volt battery charger (borrow one from a friend? all "shade tree mechanics" have at least one). Also a screw driver (flat blade) to remove the battery caps. Distilled water and a small funnel or other means of refilling the battery water.

1) Take the top step off to expose the batteries. On my unit - two thumb screws to remove the step.
2) Visually inspect the batteries and wires under the step. Anything obvious? Side or top blown out of a battery? Wire hanging loose not connected to anything? Anything melted or burnt looking? Yes - trouble shoot and repair. No - go to next step.
3) Assuming you have "flooded deep cycle" batteries, they will have removable caps. Use the screw driver to remove the caps and check the water level in the batteries. Are any of the cells dry? Refill any low cells with distilled water to the bottom of the cell water level indicator (minimally above the plates).
4) Measure the battery voltage. See the chart Herk posted above. Determine the status of the batteries from that chart.
5) Assuming the batteries are low, connect the automotive battery charger and let it charge for a couple of hours or more. Check the battery voltage with the charger attached. The voltage should fairly quickly move up to 12+ volts. If after some time the charger either "kicks off" or can't raise the battery voltage to 12+ volts, either the batteries or the RV are drawing too much current - shorted. If that is the case, next step is to disconnect one side of the batteries from the RV (with the battery charger turned off or disconnected to avoid possible sparks). Again, try to charge the batteries. If they will charge with the RV disconnected - problem is on the RV side. If not, potentially shorted batteries.
6) Assuming the batteries take a charge, disconnect the battery charger and try some of your 12 volt items in the RV (e.g., turn on some lights). Do things work normally? No - trouble shoot the RV.
7)Connect the voltmeter to the batteries. DO NOT connect the battery charger. Plug the RV in while observing the voltmeter. Does the voltage increase when the RV is plugged in? Yes - battery charge circuit in converter is working. No - converter is not charging the batteries.
8) Unplug the RV from shore power. Start the vehicle engine while observing the Voltmeter. Does the voltage increase? May take a while, due to the designed preferential charging of the vehicle battery. If the (house) battery voltage never increases, the vehicle charge circuit is not charging the house batteries.
9) If neither the converter nor the vehicle are charging the batteries, check for a problem in the circuit under the cover on the side of the steps - again, cover held on by two thumb screws on my unit. Not that this cover says to disconnect the batteries before opening. Again, visual for obvious problems. Check the fuses in there.

Safety - batteries like those used in RVs generate potentially explosive hydrogen gas when they are charging. Turn off the charger before making connections (to avoid a spark). Be conscious of this when making or breaking any electrical connections to the batteries. MAK NO SPARKS! If a battery has cracked or exploded, sulfuric acid is released. Don't touch it.

Good Luck -
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