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Old 09-17-2015, 10:32 AM   #11
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I used to be with the "pink stuff" crowd, but switched over to solely compressed air 3 years ago. I have a 60 gal compressor in my garage that I usually use, but also have used my Rigid 3 gal compressor from HD. If you let the air run long enough you'll not have an issue with pockets of water and if you do have a bit in a line, the PEX lines are very forgiving. I do use the "pink stuff" for PTraps and what ever ends up in the tanks. Like said be sure you take care of the outside shower and black tank flush as well.

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Old 09-17-2015, 11:15 AM   #12
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Air for me as well. Pink antifreeze in the traps. Don't forget to drain the water heater. Never had a problem in 20 years of sub-zero Minnesota winters. Most any compressor will work. I have used several different over the years. Don't be afraid to let a little pressure build up in the lines by open and closing the faucets. Most water tubing is rated for fairly high pressure. If a line pops off or bursts at any thing less than 60-80psi you probably saved yourself from a future water leak. Better to find weak lines with air than water.


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Old 09-17-2015, 11:17 AM   #13
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Been blowing the lines for ten years. Only time I ever had trouble was when I did not winterize soon enough. I did forget the outside shower one time.. That sucked. I use either pink stuff or washer fluid in the traps.

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Old 09-17-2015, 08:28 PM   #14
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We use compressed air. Keep compressor in the camper for misc uses. We camp mostly all winter in Georgia and I would burn up 30 gallons or more to keep rewinterizing all winter long.

I normally open each sink by itself and then all at once. Another thing I noticed if you raise and lower the trailer at the tongue jack more water will come out. So I do a round of blowing out the lines with the trailer level. Then do another round with the tongue as low as possible. All in all takes about 30 minutes.

Also remember not to put too much pressure on the lines. Need to make sure your not shooting 100psi on those lines. We keep our at about 50psi to blow the lines.
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:47 PM   #15
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I used that cheap Harbor Freight compressor, too. Drain the hot water heater first, then by-pass it. Drain the fresh-water tank also.

Feed about 20 psi air into the city water inlet and open all the faucets, including both the inside and outside showers until no more water comes out for 5 minutes or so. Disconnect the compressor, close all the faucets, then pour a couple of tablespoons-full of the pink stuff down each outlet that has a U-bend.

Admittedly, our overnight low temps rarely drop below 20F, so folks with -50 or more might have to be more careful.

Didn't have an issue in the four years we owned the rig.
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Old 09-19-2015, 04:58 PM   #16
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Compressor Choice


So after digesting all the advice received, and poring through hundreds of reviews and answered questions, I settled on a Bostitch CAP1512-OF compressor...which arrived today.

It meets my weight requirements at about 23#, has the highest CFM and pressure rating of all the compact compressors I've looked at, and seems well engineered and built. It's as compact as any of this class of compressors.

Most of the negative reviews cited out-of-the-box failure of the pressure limit switch, causing the tank to vent and refill in an endless cycle. I tested it right away and it seems to work perfectly. Since this was an Amazon Prime purchase, I was not too worried about a DOA condition.

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Old 09-19-2015, 05:34 PM   #17
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I use a small compressor as pictured in prior threads. It has a 2 gal tank. But I don't worry about the regulator. I pump it up to 110 lbs, where it shuts off. Then I let 'er rip. The pressure drops very quickly and with a faucet open, the pressure really never gets anywhere near what you already put in it with city water.
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:16 PM   #18
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Compressed air also. First I open low point drains and fresh water tank. Then close one and hook my big shop vac to the other low point drain. Turn it on and open each faucet one by one and suck the water out. Switch low point drains and repeat. Open WH too. Figure sucking water downhill with gravity assist is a good start. Then I hook up the air compressor and blow out like others. Pink in drains and toilet only. Totally works.

One time we were in warmer southern climates and found out we were going to be driving back to freezing temps at home. Used shop vac only, and not my big one, and everything survived.
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:40 PM   #19
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I use compressed air to clear lines and WH. Then put WH in bypass and pump in rv antifreeze. Also make sure to get pink stuff in my grey and black tanks even though just about empty. Always open drain on fresh water tank and drain low points before antifreeze. In north fla I could get by with clearing lines but why chance it

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winter, winterize

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