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Old 07-09-2014, 11:26 AM   #101
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Forest river sent me a new liner when I had the blow out. This one has not given me any problem. But now the one on drivers side is. I replace several rivets on it a couple weeks ago.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:13 PM   #102
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I lost a wheel cover on my Sunseeker (right rear). When I noticed it gone, it was after I had driven on the worst section of Interstate in the country (I-70 east in Indiana at the Ohio border). It was late at night and we hit a mile of the worst bumps and potholes I have ever experienced on an interstate highway. They should have just closed the road. So when a wheel cover was lost I blamed that. Have had no other troubles with others or the replacement I had to purchase. I don't blame Dicor or FR.


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Old 07-09-2014, 04:52 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Loefflerh View Post
Pedrodasdas thanks for the great pictures, no everything makes sense...off with a handful of tie-wraps.....

X2

Guess its just an anomaly. Wire tie hub caps to rims, note to self.

BClemens, at least let us know if Dicor gets back to you on what their take is on the wheel cover rivets, as so disclosed by Pedrodasdas, thanks.
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:14 PM   #104
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On my way to Everett, Washington, from Southern California I noticed the valve extension stabilizer was cracked where it attaches to the wheel. If it had broken loose then it would act like a sail and would cause the valve extension to pull away from the tire resulting in a blowout The extension stabilizers are too thin and should be replaced. I suggest everyone check the their extension stabilizer for cracks. In order to get back home I wired the extension to the wheel. This is a major safety problem and needs to be address by FR or Sprinter before someone is killed or seriously injury.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:31 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by Drydock View Post
On my way to Everett, Washington, from Southern California I noticed the valve extension stabilizer was cracked where it attaches to the wheel. If it had broken loose then it would act like a sail and would cause the valve extension to pull away from the tire resulting in a blowout The extension stabilizers are too thin and should be replaced. I suggest everyone check the their extension stabilizer for cracks. In order to get back home I wired the extension to the wheel. This is a major safety problem and needs to be address by FR or Sprinter before someone is killed or seriously injury.
Are you referring to the air filling system prior to the yellow air-flexx system. Do you have any pictures.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:21 PM   #106
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As soon as I hear something I will post it here.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:30 PM   #107
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Meanwhile, I'm leaving for a 6 weeks on the road, direction Newfoundland !!!!!
Lot of potholes there, my liners will stay quietly in my garage. I just cleaned the wheels, they look great.


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Old 07-15-2014, 09:54 AM   #108
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Talked to Dicor today. We looked at a bolt on version they were going to proto for Winnebago, but that Winnebago decided to stick with the current one (like we use). They say they are not seeing a bunch of issues in the field. Part of it may be that Mercedes has changed the wheel 3 times since we started, which means Dicor has change their design 3 times. It might be just the early design that had the problem, but I think it may be more than that.

It's tough to tell because we're dealing with two issues here. Originally the valve extensions bolted to the liner. Could that extra "off balance weight cause the liners to shift/vibrate slightly more than normal expediting an issue? Obviously you can lose them on rough roads, pot holes etc. That is the issue with any friction fit type liner. When we switched to the Air Flexx extensions we have not seen any abnormal rate of wheel liners coming off.

My recommendation is that you make sure you are using the Air Flexx (yellow extension). If you must install a bolt on valve extension it should bolt onto BOTH the wheel AND liner (at least the wheel). I would still zip tie the liner in that application.
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:55 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by Drydock View Post
On my way to Everett, Washington, from Southern California I noticed the valve extension stabilizer was cracked where it attaches to the wheel. If it had broken loose then it would act like a sail and would cause the valve extension to pull away from the tire resulting in a blowout The extension stabilizers are too thin and should be replaced. I suggest everyone check the their extension stabilizer for cracks. In order to get back home I wired the extension to the wheel. This is a major safety problem and needs to be address by FR or Sprinter before someone is killed or seriously injury.
Already addressed this in post 38.
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:31 AM   #110
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Thanks Brian for the follow-up. Much appreciated by all in this thread, im sure.
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:14 PM   #111
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another flat tire story

I have a 2013 Solera R which has the yellow valve stem extenders.
After learning from the experience of others on this board, I tied the stems to the rim with nylon straps. We put 14000 miles on the RV without any problems at all.
Then, after returning home and parking the RV in the driveway for one week, I found that the passenger outer dually had gone completely flat and I could not pump it up. So I drove it very gently to the tire shop where they told me that I had a bad valve stem. They said that there are 'regular' and 'heavy duty' stems. Guess which kind was on my RV...?
One week later, the driver side outer dually was nearly flat, but this time I was able to pump it up again. On recommendation of another member of this board, I left the valve cap off and, voila: Two weeks later, no leak.
Turns out that the tire shop fitted all new valve caps and they were pushing slighly against the protruding extender stem, causing a slow leak.
The solution to the problem was to use a nail clipper and cut off about 1/32 of the stem, so it is flat with the housing.
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:10 PM   #112
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Is it possible it was so simple !

Finally decided to fix my liners yesterday. I redrilled the holes and manage to insert pop rivets in it. Better believe the grips have never been so tight.

But I had to pry the inside rim in order to get a good fit for the pop rivets and, guess what. After I fit that liner on the rim, impossible to get it out !

I then took my second liner, the one with no rivets missing and I just pried the inside rim to make the circumference a little bit larger, it works ! Both liners are now holding solid on the rims, so simple.

BUT.....I still put tie-wraps !!!
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Old 06-30-2017, 08:39 PM   #113
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Same issue as Pedrodasdas. Cut wire ties in preparation for tire change, passenger side rear wheel liner practically fell off. Three rivets gone, one more very loose.
Pedrodasdas- if you are still around - did your repair with pop rivets hold up?

(Of note - no missing or loose rivets on the driver side liner.)

Now at 88K miles - about to install third set of tires - this is my first wheel liner issue. I have had my liners tied on with wire ties since almost new, as a result of reading this thread. Glad I did.
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:21 PM   #114
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Ho Yes, still around and certainly not the last time we hear about those Dicor wheel cover and the flex of Mercedes rims"

To answer your question, No, the repair did not last and I finally ordered two more covers directly from Dicor. A good hint is that you can separate the center piece from the outside rim and order just the rims. It will save you much money but those rims are still expensive.

In the other hand, never had any bad experience with the new ones, they seems to grip a lot more BUT I'm still using tie-wraps !
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Old 06-30-2017, 10:54 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by Pedrodasdas View Post
Ho Yes, still around and certainly not the last time we hear about those Dicor wheel cover and the flex of Mercedes rims"

To answer your question, No, the repair did not last and I finally ordered two more covers directly from Dicor. A good hint is that you can separate the center piece from the outside rim and order just the rims. It will save you much money but those rims are still expensive.

In the other hand, never had any bad experience with the new ones, they seems to grip a lot more BUT I'm still using tie-wraps !
Thanks. Also got your private message - ignore my reply, you answered here! I was afraid the pop-rivets wouldn't hold.

Regards, Jim
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Old 07-01-2017, 04:46 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by Pedrodasdas View Post
Ho Yes, still around and certainly not the last time we hear about those Dicor wheel cover and the flex of Mercedes rims"

To answer your question, No, the repair did not last and I finally ordered two more covers directly from Dicor. A good hint is that you can separate the center piece from the outside rim and order just the rims. It will save you much money but those rims are still expensive.

In the other hand, never had any bad experience with the new ones, they seems to grip a lot more BUT I'm still using tie-wraps !
As Pedrodasdas' repair did not hold up well, I tried a different, more aggressive fix. I drilled trough the wheel cover, then enlarged the outer hole with a 3/8 inch drill, and replaced the missing and loose rivets with hardened cap screws and Nyloc nuts from Ace Hardware (Ace part #s 43844A and 3384B). Pictures should show a failed rivet next to the Ace cap screw and nut, the repaired tabs, the riveted tabs for comparison, the holes through the wheel cover with the Nyloc nuts, and the outside of the wheel cover showing the five rivets I replaced with cap screws and nuts.

I will continue to use wire ties; time will tell if this repair holds up.

FYI

Jim
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Old 09-10-2021, 09:40 PM   #117
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So I’m not the only one this has happened to? But maybe I’m the most recent.

In April 2021, we were driving our 2014 Solera back to Washington from an amazing trip to Bryce, Zion etc., when BAM! The double blowout passenger side happened. We heard the same crazy sounds as described by others in this thread, and it took a while before it sounded like a flat tire. We pulled over, eventually got some help putting on the spare, and limped straight to Les Schwab in Pocatello where I immediately replaced all 6 tires as I was scared to death another one would blowout. Oh, and I had no idea we were missing the hubcap (liner?) until the folks at Les Schwab asked what I wanted to do with the valves as “they would be hard to get to” without extensions. Anyway, they showed me the correct setup on the driver side, and suggested I purchase a new hubcap/liner etc once I made it home.

So…now I find this thread, and while I’m sorry this has happened to so many people, I’m also relieved that there is a group of folks with experience that I can ask my questions to.

Oh, and I’m a newbie RVer, and not very handy or mechanical so thanks for your patience and help.

1. Do I need to replace the liner? I’m cheap, and also it sounds like it causes problems, so can I just get the air-flex extensions without the liner/hubcap? If so, do I zip tie them to the rims?
2. If I DO need to get a replacement hubcap/liner, where/how do I do that? I asked the RV place that I go to for winterizing, and he said it looks like he can’t get them. Is there a way to get Forrest River to send me one?
3. Are these the right extensions? https://amzn.to/2XbeaWt
4. Any other advice, or questions I should have asked?
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Old 11-08-2021, 07:34 PM   #118
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I have a 2020 Forest River Forester (MBS Sprinter). I have had 3 "blowouts " all on different occasions. None were fun. I said blowout but when the valve stems popped out it wasn't catastrophic until the tire tore itself up. This 3rd time, I took my spare in (again) to get fixed and talked to the owner of the tire shop. He was really surprised the label on the door jam had them only being pressurized to 61 Lbs. He said, with that weight it should be 70 or 75. After some discussion we deduced the 61lbs is the rating for a Sprint that has not been converter to an RV (basically a passenger vehicle). The tires are rated higher but the valve stems are only rated for 61lbs. Rather than FR replacing the stems for the proper inflating, they just let it ride (pun). I had the tire guy put a kit in for all six tires that have the nut/bolt arrangement (rated 80 lbs) instead of the push in type valve stems that are rated for 61.
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Old 11-09-2021, 09:36 AM   #119
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4. Any other advice, or questions I should have asked?[/QUOTE]

I recommend going with metal valve stems.
https://yourtireshopsupply.com/produ...tems-dl1sp13fr

I covered the metal stems with 3/8ths clear plastic tubing to just under the treads. Helps to prevent chaffing from the wheel simulators.
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Old 11-09-2021, 03:31 PM   #120
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He was really surprised the label on the door jam had them only being pressurized to 61 Lbs.
He should not have been surprised. If you look at tire loading charts for the OEM Solera tires you'll see that 61 lbs. is the appropriate pressure for a fully loaded unit, according to tire manufacturers. But this has been subject to numerous discussions on the Solera (and, probably, MBS) forums. Many owners run in the mid 60s to have a little leeway with pressure changes that come from lack of use and changes in ambient temperature. YMMV

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