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Old 08-20-2015, 12:23 AM   #11
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Cheaper that way???? Helps the secondary market sell thermometers?
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:17 AM   #12
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Are we talking about a frig. in a Solera? I think we are and they run on propane plus DC or 110 and not on an inverter. Mine will run for a very long time on just the batteries and propane. I will leave it set to auto.
My inverter is after market. It powers my whole coach. If I forget and leave the Demetic frig on auto, and flip on the inverter, the flips over to 120 v and pulls a significant inverter load creating a meaningful battery drain. I'm just saying, for me, best I stay off AUTO, on gas, and I hate that there is no light that tells you it is even on. The auto light tells you it is on, at least. Seems counterintuitive that on gas the light means IT'S OFF.
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:12 AM   #13
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Are we talking about a frig. in a Solera? I think we are and they run on propane plus DC or 110 and not on an inverter. Mine will run for a very long time on just the batteries and propane. I will leave it set to auto.
X3

As for the subforum issue. It becomes confusing when posters don't elaborate on their specific equipment, when posting in a forum, that in this case was Solera specific.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:34 AM   #14
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AUTO

So let me get this right........ If it's on "AUTO" and you have it using propane, does it switch to Electric as soon as you plug in?
And if it's on "AUTO" and you're using propane will it automatically switch to Electric when you plug in?
I can't remember how they told me it worked.
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:07 AM   #15
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So let me get this right........ If it's on "AUTO" and you have it using propane, does it switch to Electric as soon as you plug in?
yes - but make sure AUTO in on and GAS is off ( pushed in )

otherwise I think GAS defeats AUTO for quicker cooling



PS I can hear the propane burner when it comes on.
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:14 AM   #16
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Well, mine and every Dometic I have looked at, has an Auto light if you turn the frig on and it is Not on gas only. On AUTO it will slip automatically on to 110 every time you plug in or flip your generator on, or in my house turn on the full house inverter. Unlike the water heater which can run gas and electric at the same time, the refrigerator is either ,but not both. If you do not have gas on, or if there is air in you gas line; THEN the second light comes on. Tells you to check your gas. If you look at it from across the room and see one light, then you have to walk over and see if it is the auto that is on or the check gas light is on, telling you you need to make sure the propane is on and possibly that you need to bleed air out of the line by turning on the stove burner for a minute.

I wish there was a nice little green light telling you that everything is OK, like when I walk into the garage at night and I can see the little green light telling me that the freezer is still working.
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:58 AM   #17
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[QUOTE=ipolyihh;960138]yes - but make sure AUTO in on and GAS is off ( pushed in )

otherwise I think GAS defeats AUTO for quicker cooling

ACTUALLY, AUTO SETS 120V AS PRIORITY OVER GAS. Adds about 4 to 6 amp draw to to the AC circuit which some manage to overload with their air conditioner already.
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:28 PM   #18
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ACTUALLY, AUTO SETS 120V AS PRIORITY OVER GAS. Adds about 4 to 6 amp draw to to the AC circuit which some manage to overload with their air conditioner already.
right, but if you have AUTO on and push the GAS button to let it pop out (ON)
the AUTO light goes off and cooling switches to propane ( you'll hear the burner fire up )

push the GAS button in to turn propane cooling off and not much happens until you cycle the AUTO button
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Old 08-22-2015, 12:38 AM   #19
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right, but if you have AUTO on and push the GAS button to let it pop out (ON)
the AUTO light goes off and cooling switches to propane ( you'll hear the burner fire up )

push the GAS button in to turn propane cooling off and not much happens until you cycle the AUTO button

OK Lets see if I can say this better and CORRECTLY. Push the on off button and if the auto lite comes on then the GAS only button is in. it will switch to default 120v if you have 120 v if you do not it will run on gas.

If you set the other button to GAS no light will be on. Then the unit will only cool on GAS. You should hear the relay click turning the big Gas Pilot on and that runs like that full time and cools. When you go on 120v the only difference is that an electric heating element heats the ammonia the same way the Gas Pilot does. On Gas only, as I was saying you just have to look at the buttons on off in is on and GAS button is UP from then on the only failure you will know about before the box starts getting warm is that IF gas goes off you will get a CK GAS lite on. Bugs the hell out of me that the only way you know it is working is to have faith and if it keeps cool it is working.

If you have yours ON and it only cools on 120 v with the AUTO lite on and you are getting no cooling when the GAS switch is ON and the CK GAS lite is not on, then your gas is not working Start out with switched ON (down) and GAS ON (UP) and no lights then go behind the frig start looking under the removable cover on the heat exchanger side (Right side from the back) and see if the gas pilot is burning if it is not, the likely cause is maybe bug or spider nest on the igniter and if you are lucky and good cleaning might get it working. REMEMBER ON/OFF button ON GAS button down the AUTO lite comes on and you run 120v ac if you have it and if not the it runs gas. If you do not want it flipping on when wife starts the Gen to Microwave or Dry herr hair, then be sure it is not on AUTO but ON with the GAS button in the position that keeps the AUTO lite from coming ON. AUTO only matters if you have 120 v ac
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