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Old 02-09-2015, 02:01 PM   #251
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Pixelbum, Found instructions for 2007 Sprinter and they do say lube the bushing.

I will let you know if the bar makes a substantial difference in handling.

I would think that a stiffer sway bar would have more of an anti rock and roll effect than stiffer springs. Don't really know if that is correct or not.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:49 PM   #252
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One quick point...

I'm still trying to sort out my sway bar installation. Haven't solved the clunk problem completely yet, though the situation seems better.

In talking with the Hellwig Tech Support people (and, through them, to engineering) they indicate that the hump in the bar should be below the rest of the bar...not above it. I'm not sure what difference this makes ... it is not mentioned (or obvious) in the instructions ... and even the tech support guy couldn't tell from the instructions ... and, of course, mine is currently installed with the hump on the top, not on the bottom.

Oh well.

Dave
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:21 PM   #253
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Dave, I don't see a hump on the bar I ordered. Does yours look like this one?
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:28 PM   #254
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Well, yes...it looks pretty much like that one. The hump is not terribly pronounced. It's in the center section, between the two D bushings, and hasn't been at all obvious in any photos I've seen. But it's certainly obvious when looking at my actual bar.

I assume that the hump is included to add a third dimension to the bar to increase the bar's overall stiffness. But what do I know??? I haven't gotten the damn thing installed correctly yet...

Dave
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Old 02-13-2015, 10:06 AM   #255
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Good post. Guess we will have to seek one out.


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Old 02-13-2015, 04:25 PM   #256
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DaveJordon, the sway bar arrived today and as you said there is a slight offset bend in the center. It would be hard to tell there is a bend just looking at it. Laying it on the floor and flipping from one side to the other makes it quite apparent.

The instructions state to torque to 30 foot pounds and using red lock tight; that should handle it. Red lock tight requires heating to 300 degrees F to break a bolt free.

The silicone grease that came with it should keep the bushings from popping.

We will see.
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:49 PM   #257
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SumoSprings

Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
I finally got to test drive the one we installed at the factory. It was a miserable snow/ice day so it was perfect.

I had (3) other guys in spots throughout the unit. It still swayed a bit, but once it came back to center it just stopped. The one without it would sway on a turn and then wobble back and forth slightly even after the turn was complete. Noticeable ride improvement. I did not have any clunks.

I must say, the Sprinter handled great in the snow. The dually wheels powered through and with the Mercedes traction control I never noticed us spinning out. (roads were ice covered and we had about 6 inches of fresh snow)

I will recommend that we install the Helwig bar as either and option or stock item. Still probably 6 weeks before we can get parts in quantity if it gets approved.

Add the SumoSprings front and back as well, The 2 together make Quite a difference.
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:29 PM   #258
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Reinstallation ...

So, with replacement hardware in hand and the recommendation that the bump be down, not up, I redid my sway bar installation yesterday. The reinstallation went much easier than the original and no clunks ... but only a few miles driven. Anyway, here's the (entire?) process I used...

1. I backed the motorhome onto four levels on 2x8s, bringing the wheels about 6 inches off the ground. I did NOT take out the spare tire. (When I did that last time, the process of getting the spare out...and back in again...took maybe an hour and a half. Ugly.) I added wheel chocks in front and behind one of the front wheels.

2. I brought in a work light, so I could see a bit of what I was doing.

3. I wedged a 2x8 block to the right of the exhaust pipe, moving the pipe to the left. This gave me enough room to get at the bolt holding the swing arm on the right side to loosen and remove it.

3. I removed the sway bar. In my case, it was the first-try Hellwig, but would have been the OEM bar if I'd done everything right the first time. I took the bar off by first removing the swing arm bolts and then the bolts holding it to the axle. Be careful here...I almost dropped on myself! Note that the swing arm bolts may be easier to manage if you have a deep 18 mm socket as a regular depth socket doesn't quite reach the nut when it's tight.

4. I hung the new sway bar from two jack stands, adjusted to bring the bar to just under it's final mounting position. I supported the bar as far to the outsides as I could. Note that the bulge in the bar will be toward the front of the vehicle, so that it will be pointing down when the bar is rotated to attach to the swing arms.

5. I greased the D bushings with the Hellwig supplied grease and installed them in their approximate positions on the bar.

6. I attached the bottom of the right side u strap with the supplied socket cap screw, just enough to hold it in place. I used the recommended 10 mm allen socket, Home Depot #564566. With the jack stand in place, it was pretty easy to lift the bar up, probably less than an inch, to get the screw started. I found that I had to get things lined up visually before I could get the screw started.

7. I attached the top of that u strap with another socked cap screw, again just enough to hold it in place.

8. I took the jack stand I was using on the right side (no longer supporting anything), lowered it a bit, and used it to rotate the right side swing arm up a bit (rather than hanging vertically as it had been.) This was needed in order to attach the left side bushing and u strap, because otherwise the bulge hits up against the differential.

9. I attached the left side u strap, loosely, pretty much as I had the right side.

10. I attached the right side swing arm using the OEM bolt. I installed the bolt with it's head on the left, as it had been originally. This avoids possible interaction between the bolt and the exhaust pipe. I didn't bother putting the nut on yet.

11. I attached the left side swing arm using the OEM bolt, in it's original orientation. Unlike my first, bulge up, installation, this time it was pretty easy to get the sway bar into the right position for the second swing arm bolt. (Last time I had to use a bottle jack to force it into position...)

12. I painted the four Hellwig supplied cap screws with a bit of BLUE, not RED, thread locker. I used a gel version which seemed much easier to get in place. In each case, I pulled the u strap back against the head of the screw and used an Q-tip type thing to apply a bit of thread locker to the threads behind the u strap. I then tightened the cap screws, evenly, to 65 ft-lbs. While I'm sure that tightening to 30 ft-lbs, with thread locker, would keep them in place, I'm not convinced it would keep those u straps from sliding under the screws which, I think, is where the clunking came from. Also, checking various bolt references, it looks like those screws should be good to 85 or 90 ft-lbs, with lubrication, and to quite a bit more when dry.

13. I painted the OEM swing arm bolts with a bit of thread locker, added the nuts, and tightened them to 50 ft-lbs. (They would probably be fine with less...)

14. I removed the block holding the tail pipe out of the way.

15. I let everything sit overnight, and then removed the chocks and drove it off the blocks this morning. Everything seems good, but I'll drive it some more and recheck all the bolts.

All in all, this process went much more smoothly than my first try at it. It was certainly less than three hours and may have been less than two.

Hope this helps whoever's next! Let me know if more clarification can help.

Dave
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Old 02-15-2015, 05:50 PM   #259
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Installed the Hellwig sway bar today. After removing the old I mounted the new bar to the link arms loosely first and swung the bar into place. Doing it this way I did not need to move the exhaust pipe. The link arm could be moved enough to clear the link bolt.

Installed the bushing caps and torqued everything.

Jack stands or bottle jack makes this much easier if working by oneself.

Start to finish less than two hours. I did not use the boards as Dave did, but I would recommend doing it that way. Little tight under there otherwise.

Also recommend washers/spacers for each side of the link arm bushings.

Will test drive later this week and post if there are any problems.
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:50 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikegjax View Post
After removing the old I mounted the new bar to the link arms loosely first and swung the bar into place. Doing it this way I did not need to move the exhaust pipe. The link arm could be moved enough to clear the link bolt.
Yeah - that's probably a better way to do it. I tried that the first time around, when I had the bulge up instead of down, and couldn't even get close to doing the axle mounts. With all the hassle I'd gone through, I just didn't think about starting with the swing arms after I switched the bulge around.

Dave
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