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Old 08-23-2013, 08:04 PM   #121
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I'm happy with the one as well. I don't think a second one would help much.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:20 PM   #122
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Just jumping in here. We just got our Solera 24M last month. After seeing this thread I ordered my sway bar today. On the shocks, Is the correct bilsein part# 24-157161. This is just great stuff! My wife and I have been camping for 30Yrs in just about everything But,this is our first MH. Have not named it yet maybe Dream Weaver What do you think.
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:58 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainTrippers View Post
Just jumping in here. We just got our Solera 24M last month. After seeing this thread I ordered my sway bar today. On the shocks, Is the correct bilsein part# 24-157161. This is just great stuff! My wife and I have been camping for 30Yrs in just about everything But,this is our first MH. Have not named it yet maybe Dream Weaver What do you think.
We only did the sway bar - great. Others have done both, so they will need to answer your shocks question. BTW love the name Dream Weaver - seems quite appropriate!
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:43 PM   #124
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Can someone tell me the diameter of the Hellwig or the OEM sway bar? I have a used 24M would hate to order one and then find out that it had already been changed.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:19 PM   #125
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Not sure of diameter but noted that the Hellwig uses Allen head bolts to attach its brackets to the axle housing; the stock sway bar uses standard hex head bolts.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:44 PM   #126
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I still had the OEM sitting in the garage, it's a little over 1". Hellwig is significantly larger.
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:59 AM   #127
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Installed 2 years ago on my 2011, have put about 35k mi since. An excellent addition. Parking lot exits & crosswinds tolerable.

WARNING:Instructions say to re-torque bolts after awhile (can't remember exactly), I didn't & the bolt backed out of the U bracket top left in Washington state, big bang. Had a mechanic look at it & I got under as well. Bracket bent all the way down, but drivable. Made it home to LA, safely, taking it real easy. Pain in the drain fixing because it screwed up the threads on the weld nut as it exited. I bought bolts about 1/4" longer, 8mm if I remember, now bites the whole nut.

BE SURE TO RE-TORQUE THE BOLTS.

If anyone finds a front axle sway bar for this chassis, post the info. I think it would help more than a second on the rear.
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by peterfinurke View Post
WARNING:Instructions say to re-torque bolts after awhile (can't remember exactly), I didn't & the bolt backed out of the U bracket top left in Washington state, big bang. Had a mechanic look at it & I got under as well. Bracket bent all the way down, but drivable. Made it home to LA, safely, taking it real easy. Pain in the drain fixing because it screwed up the threads on the weld nut as it exited. I bought bolts about 1/4" longer, 8mm if I remember, now bites the whole nut.

BE SURE TO RE-TORQUE THE BOLTS.
Which poses the question about the Loctite? If I re-torque the bolts, is the Loctite that was applied no longer effective, or does it continue to work even if the bolt is turned? Or, do I need to remove the boltl, re-dress it with Loctite, then re-install and re-torque? Not familiar with how the Loctite stuff works.

I just finished a 4000 mile trip, and probably do need to check the torque on those bolts! I'll do that as soon as I remove all the bugs I collected
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:26 PM   #129
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Pretty sure if you turn the bolt the Loctite hold is history. I just checked mine with a ratchet - all felt tight - did not "re-torque" as that would likely break the Loctite loose.
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:48 PM   #130
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Pretty sure if you turn the bolt the Loctite hold is history. I just checked mine with a ratchet - all felt tight - did not "re-torque" as that would likely break the Loctite loose.
Curiosity got the best of me, so I went to the Loctite web site. Apparently, once set and cured, it must be heated to 500° to loosen. So if it's not loose with the ratchet, it's probably not loose at all!
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:41 PM   #131
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Re-apply Locktite

Yes, anytime you break the "locktite seal" you should re-apply. I replaced the bolts too, as I believe once a bolt has been stressed (torqued) it is weakened.
Buy fresh red locktite & cover the threads thoroughly.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:05 PM   #132
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Here is what suspension upgrades look like on a 2013 Mercedes Benz Sprinter 3500 motorhome:

Koni shock absorber 822588
Hellwig anti-sway bar 7254
SumoSpring SSR-335
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:20 AM   #133
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Jackfish,
Nice installations !.....did your ride change at all with the addition of the SumoSpring SSR-335 ?
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:27 AM   #134
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The ride is solid, but not jarring, with improved cornering. Koni shocks are superior (compression and rebound dampening) to the stock shocks and the SumoSprings I guess act sort of as an auxiliary shock absorber. SumoSprings also are an auxiliary spring and allow a more level ride with a load. Sway is reduced around corners and the oscillation when entering/exiting uneven driveways is also reduced, meaning that the number of times it swings side to side is reduced.

Front suspension upgrades:

Koni front struts 872657
SumoSpring SSF-106-40

We will be in your neck of the woods next summer; if you are around you can see it for yourself.
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:33 AM   #135
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Jackfish:
Were you able to do the install yourself? If so, give us a few details about what is involved! I've installed the Hellwigs on my Solera, and considered the Bilstein shocks which I'll probably install before next spring. The SumoSpring looks interesting, and the price is reasonable (as long as I can do the install myself )
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:41 AM   #136
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Front:
1. Block the rear tires.
2. Jack up the front end by the frame allowing the front wheels to hang freely.
3. Screw out the stock bump stops.
4. Screw in the SumoSpring SSF-106-40s.
5. Let the front end down off the jacks.
6. Unblock the rear tires.
7. Done.

Rear:
1. Block the front tires.
2. Jack up the rear end by the frame allowing the rear axle to hang freely.
3. Pry out the stock rear bump stops.
4. Insert the SumoSpring SSR-335s with the deepest top indentation to the front of the vehicle.
5. Let the rear end down off the jacks.
6. Unblock the front tires.
7. Done.

Check the Sprinter manual for the appropriate points on the frame on which to jack.
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:53 AM   #137
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Jackfish:
Thanks for the post. It sounds simple enough! Didn't realize initially that you had done the Sumos on rear AND front! Definitely on my list of future upgrades! Am now wondering about a comparison of the Bilstein vs. Koni shocks. Doubt there's anyone who's had both, but I have heard great things about both!
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Old 10-10-2013, 04:28 PM   #138
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What do you notice when you upgrade the shocks only, if anything. Just curious if done in conjunction with the Hellwig, do you gain anything, since one aids the other and would be difficult to isolate the benifits of each when both installed at the same time.
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Old 10-10-2013, 05:54 PM   #139
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Shocks and anti-sway bars serve different functions in a vehicle's suspension. So the benefits of upgrading each should be evident.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:51 AM   #140
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Jackfish,
Thanks for all the great info.....look us up when your in the Denali Park area next summer it would be great to see your rig.
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