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Old 10-27-2015, 12:20 AM   #21
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My Dad lived at our place in Tucson for 5 years. Even on nights it got down to 26 the only thing that froze was the water supply hose.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:29 AM   #22
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If Not plugged in to S/P your Fan only on your Furnace will run your Battery down Faster than the Tank Heaters! Youroo!!
I agree... Last weekend, I was boondocking where it was getting down to 30 degrees. I used the furnace but the battery ran down faster. I couldn't turn the generator on 'cause it was within quiet time. So I used Big Buddy for a while and fell sleep. In the morning, I experienced a strong smoke inside coach just after I turned the generator on. I thought that was from incomplete combustion. But how that smoke came inside? Through the gap of the back slide??? Are there anybody who have the same situation and can recommend how I do?
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:31 AM   #23
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I live in the Eastern Sierra Mtns. @ 7,000 ft. Elev. I did quite a bit of below freezing usage last year on my Solera before eventually wintering. No problems if below freezing for only a few hrs. If it warms up during the day. I use Arctic Pac at night, insulate the vents with the inserts, foam core boards over windows, heavy blanket between coach and cab for heat loss and furnace or space heater. I open the cabinets a little to let the heat into the lines. I use a little antifreeze in the holding tank if really cold too. All lines run inside the rv, not underneath. There is spray insulation underbody. All in all, pretty well insulated. Using some pipe fitting cover near the tank is the only exposed area.
mtnlvr, I was wondering how you attached the foam core boards to the windows? I am looking at doing that to the three windows in the queen bed slide out in my 2400R.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:18 PM   #24
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For insulating my windows; I take the foam core boards, which are available at art supply stores and cut them to window size with an utility knife. I then push the boards inside the window shade valance frame over the blinds. They can also be cut a little smaller and pushed in between the window and shade. The boards are quite flexible. I keep mine inside my bed's corner windows most of the time. I don't have black out shades and this helps darken my sleeping area when camped next to bright lights. I also use these boards during hot weather to keep the heat out. They easily can be stacked out of the way in my overhead bunk when not in use.
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:28 PM   #25
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Space Heaters

What size space heaters have been used to heat the 24r?
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Old 10-29-2015, 08:13 AM   #26
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Dogpa, because I'm trying to conserve electricity when I'm not plugged in, I have a gradient heater with a 400 and an 800 watt setting. It's great for mildly low temperatures (35-50), but wouldn't keep the rig warm enough below those temperatures. Many report success with a 1,500 watt ceramic heater.
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Old 10-29-2015, 10:06 AM   #27
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What size space heaters have been used to heat the 24r?
A 1500W ceramic works quite nicely in our "W" and it has a bit more space to heat than a "R" or "S".
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Old 10-29-2015, 10:48 AM   #28
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We are using a Vornado MVH Whole Room Vortex Heater it has 3 heat settings (750/1125/1500 watt) for the last month and are very happy with it so far. We have only gotten down to the 40's so far so we will find out more when it gets colder. Very quiet and it heats the whole coach without getting really hot in the immediate area of the heater.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:51 PM   #29
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Space Heater

Thanks CanAm, I will search one of those out. We are in the 40's at night here in Bend.
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:58 PM   #30
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Portable Ceramic heater... Maybe around $20 from Walmart.

We usually turn on the propane heater in the evening just long enough to get the TT warm and then use the ceramic heater the rest of the time...


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