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Old 11-13-2014, 08:33 AM   #11
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Yes, the low point drains themselves are easily accessible...from the outside of the coach. The problem is installing shutoff valves inside the coach, where they won't freeze.

I've taken another look under the sink and it appears that the water lines are coming in from the rear of the coach to Ts under the sink. One side of the T goes up, to the sink, and the other side goes down, to the low point drain. Unfortunately, these Ts are all the way at the rear of the cabinet, behind, and under, a flexible heating duct, and are encased in hard sprayed foam.

Going in there to replace the T with perhaps a bypass valve is a bit scary, as the opening is small (just the under-sink drawer) and it's not exactly clear what's going on or how much of the existing wiring, foam, pex, and heating duct would have to be removed or rerouted just to get access to work.

One possibility, which might be easier to accomplish, would be to put a bypass valve on the horizontal run to the existing T. Cut the vertical run to the sink, cap the lower part of that run, and connect the upper part to the new bypass valve. This approach would at least allow you to choose the spot where most of the work would take place.

Still thinking about it!

Dave
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:17 AM   #12
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Good deal Dave,I like a person who keeps on Task! Freeze repair (After the Fact) is NO fun job! Youroo!!
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:46 AM   #13
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Why not use 12 volt DC heat tape? Power source is close by.
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:30 PM   #14
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What freeze repair. The poster is trying to rectify what he believes is a problem with below freezing temperatures and highs in the 50ties. I still say save the carving for your turkey. For as many times that you will have a potential freeze problem, go with insulation or heat tape if thats doable.

Heck, run a seperate line from your tank heat pads to those drops, and then you can heat the pex when you switch on your artic pack.
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:37 PM   #15
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OK, a few late updates on my project to survive cold weather...

First, for the low point drains. I bought some 1/4 by 1/4 balsa wood. Cut two pieces about 8 inches long. Wrapped one end of each piece with a bit of medical tape, and stuck the other end up into the low point drain. My theory here was three-fold: First, that the wood and tape would displace a fair amount of water, so there'd be less to freeze and expand. Second, if the water did freeze, the balsa might collapse before the plastic valves broke. And third, that neither balsa nor a small amount of medical tape (intended for direct wound contact) would lead to my premature demise.

Second, for the outside shower. (Why do they call it a shower???) Anyway, I pumped RV antifreeze through the system and out the hose. Once the hose water was pink, I shut things down and flushed the antifreeze from the rest of the system. I also wrapped the pipe with about three wraps of reflective bubble wrap and then put two more (longer) pieces over the end...tucking them in outside the first piece that wrapped the pipe.

But, having done all that...I'm now thinking I won't be taking it to Colorado after all. See my thread on the Schwintek slide controller for my trials and tribulations with the controller...and various other pieces which had to be removed to get at the controller...

Dave
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:02 PM   #16
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I don't understand calling it a shower either, more of a wash out hose for the sewer compartment. I did have it freeze up the first year I had it forgot to winterize it. After replacing it with a new one which was about $75 I found that it is very easily repairable.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:45 AM   #17
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I would think the balsa would absorb the water and freeze along with the rest.
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:27 AM   #18
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Circulating air in the underbelly will keep them from freezing up in the underbelly itself. We've never had a problem even when the temps were below freezing for over 24 hrs.

Note: Just putting a light bulb in the basement won't do it, you have to have forced air circulation.
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:11 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikegjax View Post
I would think the balsa would absorb the water and freeze along with the rest.
Yeah, I'm not so sure that it won't. But it will still displace some of the water and the medical tape is a foam with some give to it.

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Circulating air in the underbelly will keep them from freezing up in the underbelly itself. We've never had a problem even when the temps were below freezing for over 24 hrs.

Note: Just putting a light bulb in the basement won't do it, you have to have forced air circulation.
Can you explain how you did this? Did you use a fan-driven ceramic heater? Or something else? Where did you put whatever it was you used?

Thanks!
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:19 AM   #20
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...Can you explain how you did this? Did you use a fan-driven ceramic heater? Or something else? Where did you put whatever it was you used? Thanks!
Instead of using our furnace which is ducted into the basement, we use an EdenPure electric heater in the trailer and I wired a separate switch on the furnace blower which allows me to run the blower without the burner. I open the duct in the basement and just turn on the furnace blower to circulate the heat in the underbelly/basement.
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