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Old 11-09-2015, 11:05 AM   #21
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Roof Picture

Quote:
Originally Posted by palmetto rogue View Post
My mistake. I looked at the pics and they were 16" OC
Can you post a picture of the roof?

Thanks,

sanpedroflyer
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Old 11-09-2015, 12:14 PM   #22
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Can I ask a related question?

When you guys hocked up your solar to the coach batteries did you make any special provisions for the on board charger/inverter that came with the coach/travel trailer? I have been looking at the Renogy 200 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Premium Kit and have a Magnum Energy Inverter installed by Forest River. If I install the solar I wonder how the two will play together when I am plugged into electric (ie both could be providing charge to the batteries). You that have installed solar have you added any blocking diodes or does the MPPT controller handle everything?
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Old 11-09-2015, 12:55 PM   #23
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I have had Go-Power panels on my SunSeeker roof for several years now. Fiberglass roof, drilled holes, used mounts that came with the panels, put dicor on roof, mount, screwed down and dicor over top of screws. Working very well. As far as powering battery's, no problem in between roof panel charger and house bat. charger. I use AGM battery's.
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Old 11-09-2015, 03:58 PM   #24
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I installed the panels in the summer using clips from RV solar that were two piece with a screw to take them apart. So you could remove the panel from the roof and leave the foot attached. The dicor sealant really holds the foot down in addition to the screw into the roof. I tried to find studs up there with my Bosch studfinder. No joy. Too much other metal around I guess. Of the two panels I hit none of the studs! I tied down the cables with adhesive wire holder from home depot. But didn't use enough of them. The sound was like one of the roof vents was open but after 15000 km trip out west last month I finally figured out that it was the cables. So some more tie downs and no more snapping.

With respect to power, you want to have as few connections and short a wire run as possible in the run to the battery. So I ran down the fridge "chase" under the sink cabinets, down the wiring hole near the door and into the battery box. I connected them directly to the terminals. The converter and alternator and solar all play nice. No issues.
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:10 PM   #25
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Click image for larger version

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Here is 2 renology 100 watt bendable
Panels on a 2013 s
Hooked to controller and directly to battery. Plugging in doesn't seem to matter as controller just stops charging battery. Had no issues dry camping , don't need generator anymore except for air and micro


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Old 11-09-2015, 06:11 PM   #26
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I attached with 2 inch industrial strength Velcro


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Old 11-09-2015, 09:13 PM   #27
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I installed (or rather had a professional install) 2 160w monocrystaline panels along with a Bluesky 2512ix controller, Bluesky IPN Pro Remote, shunt and battery temp lead. The controller is a MPPT controller and reportedly there is no issue with having the panels active (I do have a shutoff switch too) while also being plugged in to shore power. Although I haven't tested it enough to know if the controller is still feeding the batteries while plugged in as well. HTH.
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:01 AM   #28
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I don't disconnect my solar system when plugged into shore power. The solar and converter charging circuit hasn't been affected on my unit. The converter charger is connected to the batteries to charge them and my solar charge controller is connected to the batteries to charge them. If my Morningstar solar charge controller doesn't see a need to charge by solar then it doesn't send the charge to the batteries.
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Old 11-11-2015, 12:23 PM   #29
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I also used go powers converter for when hooked to shore power. That way both play well together and also because of the installed AGM battery's.
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