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Old 04-11-2015, 04:20 PM   #1
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Monocrystalline Solar panel attachment to roof

I've been reading about the attachment of thin film solar panels to the roof with Velcro extreme strips. I have two "hard" panels and was going to screw them into the surface of the roof as many others have. But reading about the capacity of the Velcro strips I'm thinking that a couple of strips, one on the long side of each panel adhering them to the roof, would be ideal. I'd still like to be able to angle them south when boondocking and with the Velcro I could lift one edge and prop it up to 30° and put a block with Velcro attachments on it to hold it up.

Can anyone think of issues where I'm missing something. Being close to the roof its unlikely wind will get under the panels. There isn't a lot of direct wind in the location where they'll be located. Do you think the Velcro would hold the panels down. Would it be extremely difficult to get the panel loosened off to elevate it?

Ideas? Concerns? Thanks so much.
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Old 04-11-2015, 04:53 PM   #2
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Problem with Velcro to roof is they have no air flow underneath which is needed as they can get quite hot. IMO
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:14 PM   #3
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What is the difference between the solid panel having no clearance and the flexible panel with no clearance?
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:33 PM   #4
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I spoke to the rep at Renogy and the RV kit with the solid panels comes with clips that hold the panel to whatever surface you mount it to. I believe this allows for airflow under the panels. I inquired about the bendable panels and the rep said that you could mount them directly to the roof. I mentioned Industrial strength Velcro and the rep said some people use that. I had always thought that solar panels needed airflow in order to not get to hot.


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Old 04-11-2015, 06:38 PM   #5
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Did he say heat would be no issue?


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Old 04-11-2015, 06:41 PM   #6
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You don't say what type of roof you have. I would be concerned that you could damage or pull loose the roof material while trying to remove or move the panels. Rubber roofing can release from the base especially if heated by a panel above it adsorbing heat.
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:46 PM   #7
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On our 2012 "S" when I installed a Renogy 100 watt monocrystaline panel, I found that the roof is not flat - the panel is. I originally planned to put extra mounts on the ends (in addition to those along the sides). When I set the panel with the mounts on the roof, the mounts on one side of the panel didn't touch the roof! I ended up removing the mounts from the ends and "doubling up" the mounts on the sides of the panel.
I suspect a flexible panel would conform to the roof. My rigid single crystalline panel would not. May be an issue with the proposed Velcro mount.
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:52 PM   #8
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That is true. Non flat roof. I was thinking of putting a bit of material along the edges of the panels to raise 1/2 ". Any suggestions on what to attach to the panels underside that would lift them up and still allow the velcro to attach. Jleising. Would 1/2 " be sufficient? Do you ever tilt your panels?
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Old 04-11-2015, 07:00 PM   #9
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Don't remember how much my brackets missed by. I suspect a half inch may be enough - not sure. May depend on location on the roof. You can easily take your panel up, lay it on the roof where you want to mount it, and measure.
I don't ever try to tilt my panel.
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Old 04-11-2015, 07:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandiegodoug View Post
Did he say heat would be no issue?


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He said that bendable panels didn't need airflow underneath but that seems to contradict everything I've read about solar. Maybe it doesn't "hurt" the panels but the solar power output is reduced because of the heat. The rep also said the MPPT controller is 20% more efficient than the standard charge controller that comes in the RV kit.


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Old 04-11-2015, 09:42 PM   #11
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I already bought a mppv


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Old 04-11-2015, 09:44 PM   #12
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Mppt controller , just wasn't sure what to do about panel.
I wasn't sure if 200 w was enough


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Old 04-11-2015, 09:58 PM   #13
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IMHO the sun would degrade the plastic velcro and cause it's holding power to become less and less.
The panels do get quite warm and should be able to have some ventilation under them. I have 6 x 100 watt panels screwed to my roof.
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Old 04-12-2015, 01:28 PM   #14
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I did not trust the adhesion of the dicor roof materials to the osb roof sheathing for securing panels. I have seen this roofing bubbled on a couple trailers driving down the highway. I Used screws with sealant liberally applied to the threads. As the screws pulled the brackets down to the roof the sealant squeezed out between the roof and the Renogy brackets and under the screw heads.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:21 PM   #15
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Take a foot long piece of velcro, attach the two halves to pieces of wood. Holding the wood by the centers, try to pull them apart. Now, imagine 3 foot long pieces. You will grab one corner of your glass panel an try to separate the panel from the roof. You might try it once! Unless you are certain of the chemistry of the velcro and adhesives try something else. If you mount your panels in line with the length of your unit, the roof will be flat enough. I am in the process of doing the same with two flat panels. I am trying to get the location of the roof trusses. I would then fasten to them. I will get 3' lengths of 2" x 2" x 1/8 aluminum angle and after running a bead of aluminum silicone fasten the panels to the roof. If I cannot utilize the trusses, I will use expansion toggle bolts through the wood and fiberglass materials. I did this on my last rig and 10 years later they're still solid. Overkill? Maybe, but When I imagined a panel flying off and through a windshield, I did it my way.
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:55 AM   #16
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good overkill GerryW. I visited the factory and they use 48" wide roof panels thus the trusses were on 24" centers.
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:56 AM   #17
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My mistake. I looked at the pics and they were 16" OC
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:12 AM   #18
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I bought a Renogy 100 Watt Suitcase panel and converter. I can move it to where there is sun, even when I park the coach in the shade. Plus, can move around to find full sun. No messing with the coach roof. My problem is that the Solera vehicle battery is under a panel in from of the driver's seat - and a pain to hook up to for jump-starting (left my lights on) .
So am wondering if there is a way to connect to positive and negative from a more accessible point? Anybody know of a solution for this inconvenient battery placement, and a better way to hook up the terminals for my suitcase solar panel??
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:41 AM   #19
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http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1429370731

If you install your panels front-to-rear and not left-to-right, you shouldn't have a problem with the curvature of the roof.
IMHO, give some long thought to the Velcro approach. The panels WILL get very warm and you do not want to transfer that heat to your roof, especially if you have a rubber mat. The temp of the panels is also inversely proportional to their output. Mine are mounted with screws on the mounts that came "designed" to mount them. I really don't think there is that much difference in output weighed against the trouble and potential problems associated with climbing on the roof and partially removing panels to get a better angle.
With screwed down mounts, it's once and done.
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:30 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by RonaldGThomas View Post
I bought a Renogy 100 Watt Suitcase panel and converter. I can move it to where there is sun, even when I park the coach in the shade. Plus, can move around to find full sun. No messing with the coach roof. My problem is that the Solera vehicle battery is under a panel in from of the driver's seat - and a pain to hook up to for jump-starting (left my lights on) .
So am wondering if there is a way to connect to positive and negative from a more accessible point? Anybody know of a solution for this inconvenient battery placement, and a better way to hook up the terminals for my suitcase solar panel??
Not sure if you could use it to hook up solar, but Sprinters have jump start terminals in the engine compartment...

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