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Old 06-23-2015, 12:51 PM   #11
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Sounds to me like the light is burned out.

I don't think it's a burned out bulb. Our Apex is the same way, as was our previous Roxkwood.


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Old 06-23-2015, 12:51 PM   #12
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I use "GAS ONLY" when I stay at campgrounds with poor voltage.
It goes without saying the water heater is on propane as well.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:18 PM   #13
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I use "GAS ONLY" when I stay at campgrounds with poor voltage.
It goes without saying the water heater is on propane as well.
Only if it is 'poor' voltage? How poor is it?
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:51 PM   #14
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I'm with youroo - run it on auto. That's what we did the whole time we had our old RV. The new one is a residential fridge, so no gas. The indicator light on the gas/elec also serves as a fault code indicator if something goes wrong.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:58 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
I use "GAS ONLY" when I stay at campgrounds with poor voltage.
It goes without saying the water heater is on propane as well.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:00 PM   #16
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My mistake,,,,,I thought you were talking about the refrigerator light that lights up the food compartment.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:50 PM   #17
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Only if it is 'poor' voltage? How poor is it?
This poor or less:
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:44 PM   #18
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If we agree that the fridge's electronics run off 12v DC, then it's just the heating element that needs 110V AC. Does it really make a big diff if the fridge's heating element is only getting 108V AC?
Same argument for the water heater too.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:11 PM   #19
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Reducing the power draw from the campground pedestal leaves more available power for the A/C unit. One way to do that is to switch the water heater and refrigerator to LP.
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:21 PM   #20
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Reducing the power draw from the campground pedestal leaves more available power for the A/C unit. One way to do that is to switch the water heater and refrigerator to LP.
You got there first; exactly...
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