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Old 09-27-2011, 02:44 PM   #21
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I have already check all those fuse with a tester, no luck, still looking. Thanks.
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:41 PM   #22
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Update: Still working on the problem.

Found out there are no fuses controlling the lights, just a Big Magic Box under the dash. Why MB has to put computer everywhere ???? Drives me creazy !

So far, I have isolated section of lights:
I can make the front identification markers works.
I can make the rear identification markers works.

If I try to connect both at the same time, everything goes out.

Why ? why ? why ?

Can it be that 10 markers draw too much current ? It was working before !
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:34 PM   #23
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Update of the update:

It is exactly that. If I put too many lights, the computer that runs the light shut off. Can you imagine that ?????

The only solution: Go to MB dealer to have the computer reset with the right amp.

My solution: Run a new wire from the fuse box under the driver's seat to the main light wire at the rear. Fuse number 2 is free and comes on only when ignition is ON.

I will let Freightliner dealer take a look at it on my way South next month and have the oil change at the same time.

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Old 10-10-2011, 10:16 AM   #24
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Final post:

Problem: All running lights are gone.

Cause by: A computer monitor the Amps that goes to the light. Factory set is for 4 bulb lights. FR and MB has to fooled the system so it will provide enough Amps for 12 markers and 4 LED's. Each time the system cut-off, it will reset to factory set and will cut the power.

Solution A: Go to MB dealer to have the computer reset to 16 lights, it will probably cost you around $150.

Solution B: Run a new power wire from battery or fuse box to the FR light panel hidden in the hook-up compartment. Connect it to a relay and use the MB wire to feed the relay. That way, the computer will never feel overcharge. Damn I hate computers in vehicle.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:07 AM   #25
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I don't mean to be stupid I can picture all the panels but just to plug it in somewhere ?
Or do I use it as one of the three wires on the running light connector ?
Thanks for all your work and help on this BTW you are a godsend
John
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:08 PM   #26
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Take a look at the picture at:
Running lights GONE

The current comes in the panel by the 5 pins connector located in the lower part.
The wire for the running lights is identified as Park in.

The currant for the running lights is coming out by the brown wire on the 3 pins connector in the upper section. It is identified as Running Lts.

First check if you have power on the lower wire, if yes, just use a bypass with a in-line fuse between this wire and the brown one. The lights should come on but maybe they will not stay on for more than 3 seconds.

If they stay on, hip hip hourra !

If the fuse blow, you have a long screw hidden somewhere.

If they don't and the fuse is intact, you may run a wire from the battery (I took the power source near the step pad, go under, you will see big red wires with LOT of power) all the way to the panel, transfert your in-line fuse on it and connect it to a relay. Use the wire Park in to feed the relay.

If you do not know how to connect a relay or have no idea of what I'm talking about, just let me know, I will explain in details.
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