Runnig lights gone too !

[Pedrodasdas]

Here are a few corrections to my previous post for SoCal,

For a moment I though you had solve my problem. Last night, on my way home, people on the freeway were passing me flashin their lights. I discovered all my back running lights were shut down.

I read your post and found the fuse panel but all the fuses are good. With a voltmeter I was able to find that the power is going out of the fuse panel but not reaching the lights.

I supposed the tow hitch and the tow light connection are from Forest River or installed by the previous owner. Anyway, I do have power at that connector. Very wrong, the connection plug is well wired but FR did not respect the color code so the brown wire which is supposed to be the running lights is actually used for the RT flasher. The running light are connected to the green wire and, there too, no power.

I checked the continuity from the brown wire exiting the fuse box to the positive end of my left parking light and it read OK. I then jumped a wire from the fuse box to that light with no success.

I'm know suspecting a ground problem but do not know were is the common ground for all the running lights.

[f1100turbo]

Originally Posted by Pedrodasdas

Here are a few corrections to my previous post for SoCal,

For a moment I though you had solve my problem. Last night, on my way home, people on the freeway were passing me flashin their lights. I discovered all my back running lights were shut down.

I read your post and found the fuse panel but all the fuses are good. With a voltmeter I was able to find that the power is going out of the fuse panel but not reaching the lights.

I supposed the tow hitch and the tow light connection are from Forest River or installed by the previous owner. Anyway, I do have power at that connector. Very wrong, the connection plug is well wired but FR did not respect the color code so the brown wire which is supposed to be the running lights is actually used for the RT flasher. The running light are connected to the green wire and, there too, no power.

I checked the continuity from the brown wire exiting the fuse box to the positive end of my left parking light and it read OK. I then jumped a wire from the fuse box to that light with no success.

I'm know suspecting a ground problem but do not know were is the common ground for all the running lights.

Actually that is the way its supposed to be wired. A 7 way rv plug is not wired like normal 4 way flat.
whomever told you that the brown is running lights is wrong.
white is ground return
Blue is brakes
Green is tail license running
black is battery charge
red is stop and left turn
brown is stop and right turn
yellow is auxiliary

[Pedrodasdas]

I'm even more confused now !!!!

I found this on the web:
7 Way RV Plug & Receptacle Wiring Diagram pictures from trucks photos on webshots

and this configuration is exactly how my 2003 Safari is wired and I have no lights problem when I attach a trailer to it.

On my Solera, I attach my trailer and no lights work.

I saw the diagram : The 7 Pole RV Electrical Plug
This is what you are refering to in your answer.
Right now, I have no power on the green wire when the parking lights are on.

I don't know, I'm a newbie !!! Does big F350 has 2 plugs ? One when pulling a fifth-wheel and anoter one when pulling a standard trailer ????

So much to learn and so little time !

Any help is appreciate.

[dimurrrw]

Not sure but maybe this?

[windrider]

Depending on the year, and who installed the 5th wheel hitch, a 350 could have two plugs. It also may have a separate fuse box under the hood for the trailer lights. Looks like it's time to check the owners manual.

[Pedrodasdas]

I went on Thumper Talks and found out I'm actually doing exactly the same thing, pulling my lights one by one.

So far, the back parking lights come on but goes out after 15 seconds then back on.

For my hitch connector, I guess I will rewire it so I can use it with a cargo trailer or a dolly. No sense to pull a camper trailer with my Solera .

[Pedrodasdas]

I think I found a short wire. Of course, it is the longest one. The wire runs from the rear marker light up left to the front marker light up left. The simpliest way would be to run a new wire pulling on the old one but, of course, it is stuck solid.

I don't have the smallest clue how to solve that

[Pedrodasdas]

More update: All my lights are removed and all my wires are disconnected between those lights, even the license plate one !

I have a couple of places reading 12 volts when I put the parking switch on but the voltage drops to 3-4 volts once in a while with no reason. I could notice it by the LED gatting weaker.
So I remove the LED also and got steady 12 volts now but, as soon as I tried to connect a bulb to it, the current drops to 0 volts. No fuse blown.

[jimh]

do u have more than one 7 way plug on ur tow viehicle? i have an F-350 (2002). the factory installed 7 way plug, at the bumber, hasn't been a problem. the added one in the bed, has been. they used those blue clip on splices and i have had a couple of them corrode and loose connection. usually if u shake that area, the lights will either come back or flicker.
Cargo trailers are wired slightly different than travel trailer. all the connections are the same but the 12V on the cargo goes to the interior lights and not the battery. battery's function is for the electric brakes. i changed mine because i wanted the battery to charge when plugged into the vehicle and i wanted to be able to use the interior light in the trailer occasionally (while vehicle was disconnected).

the wire colors on the ford don't match the standard color code of the trailer wiring. the cover on the 7way on the Ford will have the pins and their function identified.

[jimh]

Originally Posted by Pedrodasdas

More update: All my lights are removed and all my wires are disconnected between those lights, even the license plate one !

I have a couple of places reading 12 volts when I put the parking switch on but the voltage drops to 3-4 volts once in a while with no reason. I could notice it by the LED gatting weaker.
So I remove the LED also and got steady 12 volts now but, as soon as I tried to connect a bulb to it, the current drops to 0 volts. No fuse blown.

oh that sounds so much like what i experienced when i had a bad splice. worked fine with no load but with load, would drag to nothing.
if they are all doing it, check the ground.