Solera Solar System Installation

[richhop25]

I studied the feasibility of a solar system for my RV and discovered that due to the size of the RV and therefore the roof area, there was simply not enough free space up there for panels of any size, at least not where the panels would see the sun unobstructed from shadows. So, I opted for portable panels that I’d place on the ground wherever they were needed based upon where I parked the RV. As you see in the attached photos, I can place them almost anywhere and at almost any angle. I’ve had them nearly vertical and also flat on the ground depending on the height of the sun. If you look carefully at the above photo you can see the power cord running along the ground from the panels to the plug just rear of the entrance door.
This 8 AWG four wire cable was sized to eliminate voltage drop along its 23 foot length. I wired it to a 30 amp connector which then had its mate next to the step. This allowed easily connecting the solar panels to the charge controller. On the solar panel end, I cut in half the wires 3 foot connecting cables purchased with the solar panels. I then wired those ends to the other end of the 8 AWG cable. Now I can easily plug the solar panels to the cable and also to the charge controller, which is mounted under the drawer under the sink.

You can see the black wires coming up into the space through the gray insulating material. I managed to carve out an opening large enough to pass the two wires through - one to the cable connection from the solar panels, the other connecting the charge controller output to the batteries. Once in place, I sealed around the cables with new foam to return the space to tight integrity against varmints and weather.

Connection to the battery bank under the entrance step was made directly and monitoring wire was connected to the shunt to monitor the current flowing into and out of the battery bank. The controller does the work of controlling current flow from the panels into the batteries so that they charge in the most effective and efficient way possible. It has different charging voltages and currents to fully charge the batteries using algorithms based upon the battery condition and it previous usage.
I should mention here that the converter installed in the RV to charge the batteries when connected to shore power does a barely adequate job, charging the batteries to about 95% of their capacity. This solar system charges to 115% of the previous day’s use. Thus you get more to use the following day
The controller is also connected to the Battery Monitor for communications between them, via an ethernet cable. This connection allows the monitor to increase the smarts of the controller to include abundant information gathering about historical data, and added functions such as equalizing the batteries raising their capacity. I note that the batteries I have are far shy of what I’d like in terms of capacity, but this solar system has increased their capabilities by many percent allowing me to use much more power per day.

The solar panels are rated to provide 18 volts at 9 amps. Two panels should therefore provide 18 amps of current if the panels are ideally turned toward the sun. On such a day, I measured on the battery monitor 20.3 amps flowing into my batteries. I suppose that is a flow converted to 12 volts, but it does show that I am getting full bang for my buck. I read much on line during my design studies suggesting to not scrimp on wire size. Voltage drop in a 12 volt system is death to a solar installation. Apparently that was good advice well-heeded.
I give high praise to the Bogart Engineering company for design and build quality on the charge controller and battery monitor combination. These devices are not only economical for my budget, but also are well designed and effective. I recommend them highly.
The solar panels themselves are Renogy 150 watt, 40” by 40” panels. They are all that they are advertised to be. After a winter with them in the desert, I’d probably go a little smaller and lighter sacrificing cloudy day capacity. I designed-in quite a bit of extra capacity beyond what I needed on a sunny day. I still get a full charge on a cloudy day, but it takes all day. When it is sunny I have spare capacity to use lots of available power in the afternoon after the batteries have had their fill.
There are many devices and many systems available for purchase. Most are considerably higher cost. I am totally happy with what I have installed and recommend them highly.

Total cost of this system was less than $800 for all parts and pieces. Installation time was more than seven hours over a period of about three weeks. Seems like a lot, but given that I had no experience and had to create all along the way, not so bad (especially as I look back on it).
I really enjoy boon-docking (dry camping). Prior to adding this solar system I had to recharge my coach batteries daily in order to enjoy all the power items that I like to use. When we were driving daily it was easy enough to keep the coach batteries charged adequately (engine alternator did a superior job over the on-board converter/charger.) But when we parked for a couple days (not connected to shore power) I would have to run the generator to bring the coach batteries back to a decent level to use through the evening. I say decent because the converter never brought the batteries back to previous days use. After 2 or 3 days parked, batteries were of little use. So, the length of my stay in any one place was limited by what my batteries could provide. With the solar system’s superior performance my same batteries are fully charged and provide their complete capacity each day. Now my only limitation is fresh water. I don’t think I can overcome that limitation, so five days is the ultimate stay time now. That’s better than 1 to 2.

I hope this gives you some confidence to enhance your boon-docking experiences by adding solar to your Soler

[dlwilliams48]

Nice set up you have there. We don't normally do any boondocking, but we had some issues a couple of years ago in some national parks (no hookups). I've since purchased a 100W panel, controller, etc. I did a dry run in the driveway for 3 days, all sunny days by the way, and only had the fridge running. Usually recharged by noon. We are going to be in the smokies national park for 5 nights next week, and hopefully the 100W panel will be enough to keep the trailer battery charged enough for the fridge control panel. It would be nice if we could use at least one of the interior LED lights, but I'll play that by ear once we get there. In any event we plan on taking a cooler and worst case will just move perishables from the fridge to the chest and buy some ice. Hope it doesn't come to that.

[backdoctor]

I have a solera 24r with 2 100 watt panels on the roof. There is plenty of room for installation. While the panel nearest the ac is occasionally shaded, I've never had a problem getting to dull charge after depleting the batteries considerably. And when I store the rig it never needs to be checked. The batteries are never depleted and I don't have to didconnect them. I could also add a larger panel at the front over the bunk, but I don't need the capacity.

I agree about the Bogart electronics. Good stuff.

[CharSolera]

There's room. I have 500 watts on top with 4 AGM batteries. They allow me to be off the grid with no difficulties.

[David100]

Richhop25, is the shunt in picture 2 just sitting on top of the battery or did you secure it to stay in place?

I appreciate your writeup and clear pictures.

I will be doing some boon docking at NPS campgrounds in AZ and UT later this year. However, at this point I am planning on using my generator to recharge the house batteries as I don't have the $$ to do solar right now. Also, most my camping is in the southeast US where I generally find at least water and electric.

[richhop25]

David100, Yes, it was a couple years to scratch together enough to get the components for my installation. Couldn't afford the installer though. I paid myself.
To answer your question, there is no place to make a physical, bolted style of installation so I used a velcro attachment. I've found them to quite secure, certainly enough for the little bit of jostling this would get from time to time. Plus it is bolted to the battery post, so...
As for charging the batteries with the generator. I have found that the generator does no better than shore power through the convertor to charge the batteries. The convertor is woefully impotent for good battery health. It never gets the batteries to full charge. The solar panels push the charge to totally full and they therefore have much more stored to use thru the evening and night. Anecdotally, I would say easily 30 to 40 percent more useable power.
When you do go with solar, be sure to read up on wire size and voltage drop from the panels to the charge controller. It is totally significant. Shop installers will run 10 AWG and swear that is good, but physics says otherwise. Most of the marginally effective and very expensive installations are under-sized wiring.
Good luck and safe travels.
Rich

[David100]

Thanks.

[TomAR]

Rich,
Really good info - I've bookmarked your post for my Spring project. I'm planning to install rooftop panels so the system is always ON. I'm starting with similar system (2108 Sunseeker 2400R) but there may be differences. Could you identify which make/model converter and exactly which batteries you have, please? Any upgrade plans? Also, what are you planning for a battery upgrade? Lastly, where did you mount the TM 2030? A larger view pic would be nice. TIA,

[Coondog]

Richhop25: I plan a similar ground based system. Have you stored the vehicle with solar panels keeping batteries charged? I am thinking I might be able to put one on the dash where it can charge without fear of theft, but am concerned about heat or fire. Or pu it on roof and secure it for wind etc. your thoughts? Anyone else want to comment?
Thanks

[Rich.M]

Dashboard solar panels won't keep the house batteries charged in storage. Best to place a 100 watt panel permanently mounted to the roof and wire the charge controller to the batteries. Consider a 30 amp charge controller to allow for future upgrades if you like to boondock.

[Coondog]

Originally Posted by Rich.M

Dashboard solar panels won't keep the house batteries charged in storage. Best to place a 100 watt panel permanently mounted to the roof and wire the charge controller to the batteries. Consider a 30 amp charge controller to allow for future upgrades if you like to boondock.

I will have 2-100w panels and a 40 amp controller.
A mfr tech replied a 100 w panel inside would be ok, but suggested a small load be kept on to allow the battery to cycle. I am thinking of keeping a vent fan on low, but would be more confident if it has been done before. Thanks for your input.

[namusmc]

Should the coach master power switch be on or off during storage? Will solar still charge the batteries with the power switch in the OFF position?

[babock]

Originally Posted by namusmc

Should the coach master power switch be on or off during storage? Will solar still charge the batteries with the power switch in the OFF position?

Yes, the master switch is off during storage. I would wire solar so that the solar is on the battery side of the switch if it isn't already that way. Have a separate switch to allow solar to be disconnected from the battery when needed. This can be a circuit breaker that can be switched to the off position.

[namusmc]

Good advice. Thank you.