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Old 01-12-2015, 09:24 AM   #11
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Location: Elkhart, IN
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Just a heads up, the 2015 does NOT have the same board that the older models had that were experiencing the problems. We have started using a CURT control module that is available off the shelf instead of being proprietary. SO the old threads would not be applicable for new models.

PLEASE do not send questions via Private Message, my inbox fills up too quickly. Post questions in the forum as a new thread so that other users can benefit from the answers. Use Private Messages for sensitive information only (VIN, Contact info or things you do not want the public to see).
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:38 AM   #12
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Though I haven't fixed thing yet, I have made a bit of progress. I found the Curt control module - it was mounted right behind (well, in front, I guess) of the hitch. It's a small box, maybe 3" x 4" x 5/8", with a variety of wires and connectors in the area.

I also determined that I have a short between the tail /clearance light hot and ground. I found this first by pulling one of the clearance bulbs out and checking the two connections with an ohm meter - both went to ground. I verified this by checking the wiring at one of the tail lights - the tail light hot also went to ground.

Now I could just take all this to the dealer but I've got a couple of reasons for holding off on that. First, who knows how long the dealer will take to sort it out? I can play around with it here and, with a little luck, track it down (and maybe correct it) myself. Second, I did add some tie downs and such to the rear storage compartment. I tried to be careful to avoid wires, etc., but, if I were to guess at this point, I'd guess that the short is the result of one of the screws I put it.

Anyway, I'll keep plugging ... and keep you posted.


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Old 01-12-2015, 05:02 PM   #13
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Location: Norcal
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Check the 7 pin connector.
2015 Salem 27RKSS
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Old 01-15-2015, 05:22 PM   #14
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Progress Report...Request for Assistance...

Well, I gotta say it's not easy going trying to sort out the wiring at the back end of the motorhome. Lots of things are pushed up into narrow crevices, held by difficult-to-cut nylon cable ties and difficult-to-remove hardened foam.

I have managed to track split the failure - there are two brown/white coming together behind the lower driver's side clearance of them is shorted to ground, while the other isn't. With the two wires separated, the clearance light on the lower passenger side no longer shows a short. But the clearance light high on the back, on the driver's side, still shows the short.

From this I conclude that the short exists somewhere in the wiring connecting the lower driver's side clearance light to the upper...or in the wire from one or the other to the original 12 volt source. So I'm still looking.

In the meantime, I've been trying to track down that 12 volt source...without success. Since the coach hasn't burned to the ground and the batteries still seem to work, I've concluded that there should be a blown fuse ... somewhere. I pulled out my handy-dandy "Sprinter Fuse Allocation Supplement", straight from our friends at Mercedes-Benz and looked for some mention of a tail light fuse. No such luck. The closest I could come fuse 20 in fuse block F55/5 - "License plate lamp / perimeter lamp / indentification lighting". Seems like a possibility, except that I don't have fuse 20 in fuse block F55/5. I don't have that fuse block at all. F55/5 is one of five fuse blocks shown as being under the driver's seat, but I've only actually got F55/3, F55/4 and F55/6. F55/5 and F55/7 simply aren't there.

I've check pretty much all the fuses I can find - those by the driver's left foot, those under the driver's seat, and those in the fuse and breaker panel in the kitchen. Nothing seems to be labeled indicating anything to do with tail lights...and nothing seems to be blown. Anyone have any suggestions as to where else I might find my blown fuse?

I'm also wondering about that hardened foam - at some point I'll have to put some back in to hold everything together, but I'm not exactly sure what type of foam to use - minimally expanding? maximally expanding? something else? Any particular brand or type?

Anyway, thanks for reading...this was a bit longer than expected!

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Old 01-20-2015, 07:14 PM   #15
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Status Update

Yup, I put a screw through one of the tail / marker / license light hot wires. It took a fair amount of pulling things apart to locate the spot where'd I done it ... and then there really wasn't enough access to tape up the wires. So I ended up cutting a 3x3 (inch) hole in the side of the rear compartment tub (well, of course, it was right where I'd put a once I figured that out, it was easy to know where to put the hole!)

Anyway, I got access to the wires and taped them all up. In tracking this down, I'd taken a bunch of connectors apart to isolate particular wire runs. So I put those all back together and ran power from the 7 way connector and all the various lights came on correctly.

Now I was sure that there'd be a blown fuse (or circuit breaker) somewhere. In tracking the problem down, I'd connected the +12 volt from the 7 way connector, through a fuse holder, and into a test lead. Any time I hit a wire connected to the bad one, the fuse blew immediately. So the big surprise was that, once everything was back together, the lights all just worked when the light switch was in either the parking or headlight position - no fuse to replace, no breaker to reset. I must admit that I'm a little baffled by this turn of events, but happy that I don't have to track down the fuse I couldn't find before!

I still have a bit of work to go - I have to bondo the tub back together, tie up all the wiring that I loosened along the way, and replace some foam here and there to hold stuff together and keep water out. But, all in all, it seems like this adventure is just about over.


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