Ok. I have read alot of post on here about tire pressures. I have the Kumho tires. Side wall says to inflated max is 80 psi. The sticker in the cab says 57 front and 61 back. I checked them today and looks like the dealer inflated them all to 73 psi. My question is what are you guys running yours at? Head to Disney World from Louisiana in 3 days.
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2016 Forester 3171DS
Work 28 and 28 around the world.
Camp every chance we get
I would make sure of the tire rating. D tires are 65 lbs. E tires are 80 lbs. I would inflate to the max as that is the only way you get the full rating of the tire. Depending on your load, you might need the full rated load capacity. Then, go by experience, and watch the wear pattern of the tire. If the center of the tire appears to be wearing faster than the edges, you might be able to back off on air pressure just a bit.
One downside of extra air is a potentially harsher ride. IMO, that is why manufacturers often specify less air. Another possibility is that the vehicle may feel "darty"; that is, wanting to change direction easily. If you experience either, use your judgment and lower air pressure; but not so much that you can't support your load. The best thing to do would be to weigh your vehicle and see how close to your GVW you are. You should do this in "camping trim"; that is, all your stuff and fluids.
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2021 F350 Lariat 7.3 4X4 w 4.30s, 2018 Wildcat 29RLX
2012 BMW G650GS, Demco Premiere Slider
1969 John Deere 1020, 1940 Ford 9N, 1948 Ford 8N
Jonsered 535, Can of WD-40, Duct Tape
Red Green coffee mugs
Tires on my 2011 Solera came from dealer with 60 psi front and 70 psi rear. They are also Kumho, load range E. After having talked to several people with automotive knowledge they advised me to leave it at that. Also I had the tires balanced and they were not really too bad out of balance (maybe 2 rears), and it made the driving/riding better.
Here is possibly another way to think about your issue. Why wouldn't you run maximum pressure if you don't experience any adverse effects? This would give you maximum protection for carrying your load and minimize the possibility of tire failure. Then only back off if you experience: poor driving characteristics, harsh ride, centers of tires show more wear than outer edges, etc. Just an idea . . . .
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2021 F350 Lariat 7.3 4X4 w 4.30s, 2018 Wildcat 29RLX
2012 BMW G650GS, Demco Premiere Slider
1969 John Deere 1020, 1940 Ford 9N, 1948 Ford 8N
Jonsered 535, Can of WD-40, Duct Tape
Red Green coffee mugs
Well, tire pressures are the most discussed (and cussed) threads on the forum.
The "max it out" school has merit since you never have to weigh your camper that way. If you max out your tires you are sure as long as you have not maxed out the camper your tires will not be "under inflated" (a sure blow out cause).
Having said that, you should weigh your rig loaded for camping and adjust tire pressures accordingly because:
1) Tires are designed to have full tread face contact with the road when inflated to the air pressure in the tire is at the correct PSI for the actual (not maximum) load on the tire. Under inflated tires (for the load on them) wear on the edges (they cup away from the road). The center ribs are only in minimum contact with the road. Overinflated tires (for the load) are like balloons ready to pop and only the center ribs are in contact with the road. They wear in the center but not so much on the sides (they cup toward the road). See attached tire inflation charts.
2) Axles have different loads on them. That is why some factory stickers have different PSI indicated for front and rear.
3) Factory pressure settings are a compromise between load and comfort. Fully pressurized tires (max load) are HARD. That makes for a very stiff and bouncy ride. In fact if the load is too light for the pressure, you can shake your camper apart from the bouncing. So the factory recommended loads are always less than max since they are based on the empty weight on the axle (not the max gross weight) and the ride.
4) When my truck's tires are inflated for towing, and I am driving in the local area (disconnected) my truck is a bear to keep on the road. It skitters and slides all over the place due to the hard rear tires. (It is also dangerous on wet roads).
Your call of course, but I would head to the scales before I changed anything.
Be SURE to read page 6 of the Michelin Guide.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Ditto on the CAT scales. I'm near the one in SW Grand Rapids, and just weighed in two days ago.
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2017 Cedar Creek 38CK Hathaway Edition
2015 Ford F-350 6.7 CC 4x4
B&W RVK3300
Full-timing since 5/2/2016. Roam Sweet Home.
FROG Int'l Rallies: 2012-2017
About 10 bucks for the first time across the scales and 1 dollar for every weigh within 24 hours of the first one (called a re-weigh).
You Motor Home folks can also weigh side to side on a cat scale by driving half on the scale and half off (after the full axle weigh) You can then subtract the tire you weighed from the full axle weight to find the weight on the opposite tire. NEVER mix pressures on the same axle.
Always put the highest required pressure on all tires on the same axle.
Example if RF needs 68 PSI to carry its load and the LF needs 72 PSI (loose some weight buddy ) put 72 PSI in both tires.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
) put 72 PSI in both tires.
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