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Old 07-04-2016, 06:44 PM   #11
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Oops. I had my terms mixed up, but was right in how to correct the tire wear issue. I meant toe not caster adjustment. Caster almost never causes a tire wear issue, more a handling one. As described
" When you turn the steering wheel, the front wheels respond by turning on a pivot attached to the suspension system. Caster is the angle of this steering pivot, measured in degrees, when viewed from the side of the vehicle. If the top of the pivot is leaning toward the rear of the car, then the caster is positive, if it is leaning toward the front, it is negative. If the caster is out of adjustment, it can cause problems in straight line tracking. If the caster is different from side to side, the vehicle will pull to the side with the less positive caster. If the caster is equal but too negative, the steering will be light and the vehicle will wander and be difficult to keep in a straight line. If the caster is equal but too positive, the steering will be heavy and the steering wheel may kick when you hit a bump. Caster has little affect on tire wear."

Also, as mentioned by another poster "Changes in riding height will affect camber and toe"
Which makes sense in the Soleras' situation, because of the heavy loads put on the chassis. So, if you want to try the fix, follow my original suggestion, or ask for your money back, and take it to a different shop. As I said, my method worked for the "toe in" correction on my pass front tire.

So, in conclusion, if you did not expierence the described above when tires were new, you do not have a caster issue, but a toe-in/toe-out problem. That will cause cupping after extended driving with that problem. Just sayin'
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:20 PM   #12
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I am really confused now, how can you change the Caster by changing the Toe,changeing the tie rod adjustment. with the price of tires why not take the thing to a real truck alignment shop. or adjust it your self and cost yourself thousands down the road. just sayin
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:26 PM   #13
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...but a toe-in/toe-out problem. That will cause cupping after extended driving with that problem. Just sayin'
Toe in/out, if not correct, will cause a constant scuffing (wear) either on both outer edges. Incorrect toe in will cause scuffing (wear) on the inner edges. Cupping is a balance problem. and will be aggravated with worn out shocks.
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:40 PM   #14
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I am really confused now, how can you change the Caster by changing the Toe,changeing the tie rod adjustment. with the price of tires why not take the thing to a real truck alignment shop. or adjust it your self and cost yourself thousands down the road. just sayin
Gosh, guess I got lucky. And whats more interesting, that procedure was explained to me by another Solera owner, and he got lucky too. I was just suggesting a way, if the OP chooses, to make an adjustment. I believe my suggestion was well received by the OP. If however, he does go to a reputable alignment shop, I hope he gets the before and after numbers, so we can all "learn". Afterall, thats part of the reason we all help each other here. I know I have learned, received help ,and helped members in this forum. One more thing if you don't mind, I close sometimes with "just sayin' not to be rude, but as sota my two cents to an issue that most likely has multiple variables, nothing more. Thanks.
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:05 PM   #15
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Just trying to get the causes and effects correctly explained.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:52 AM   #16
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Toe has no effect on caster. As stated previously caster has almost no effect on tire wear. I say almost because it can cause the vehicle to "pull" or "drift" and if you are constantly correcting for this it will cause increased tire wear. Most tire shops do not even check caster.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:51 PM   #17
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Here is what I understand it to be. Alignment at the factory on the MB chassis is proper. However, when the FR box is added the added weight somtimes puts the caster out of alignment. Whoever told you FR would know the specs is clueless. They build RV's not the chassis. So, if you bring it back to them chalk up more abnormal tire wear. They are only setting up the chassis to specs, not going the xtra mile in looking whats right infront of them (your existing spent tires).



Here is what I did, and it worked to correct caster on the pass right tire. I was experiencing abnormal wear on the passenger front outside tire tread. Losened lock nut on tie rod end on that side and turned rod 1/4 turn, effectively bringing the tire more in alignment . Reset the lock nut and monitored the wear. In my case the cupping and tire scrubbing was just beginning. Subsequent driving allowed the tire to wear true, and almost eliminated the slight cupping. You will expierence tire cupping increase, when the caster setting allows tire scrub, producing wheel shake as the cupping increases.



If you try this procedure, only adjust the caster in 1/4 increments, as the caster adjustment is extremely sensitive to tie rod adjustments. Then monitor and drive. Unfortunately, it sounds like you fried the current tire(s). Good luck.

Still kicking, I have the same tire wear problem on right front tire with 20,000 miles on it. Which way did you turn the tie rod end for correcting?
Thanks!
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:59 PM   #18
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Still kicking, I have the same tire wear problem on right front tire with 20,000 miles on it. Which way did you turn the tie rod end for correcting?
Thanks!
Bite the bullet and take it to a truck alignment shop. You playing with toe in/tow out is just hideous without gauges. Toe in/out will NOT cause cupping, that is strictly a BALANCE problem regardless of what you read in this thread.
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:29 AM   #19
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Still kicking, I have the same tire wear problem on right front tire with 20,000 miles on it. Which way did you turn the tie rod end for correcting?
Thanks!
I had abnormal wear (scuff) on the outside pass right tire. I loosened the lock nut on the tie rod end, and turned it 1/4 turn, effectively pivoting that wheel in a toe-out direction.
To answer your question, I loosened the lock nut, lightly snugged it back, then turned the tie rod in a direction, watching if it gained seperation from the locking nut. That indicated to me that I was setting more toe-out, which is what my vehicle needed. I couldn't tell you from memory, sorry. Just understand from action, by observing the seperation or snugging up to the locking nut. That will give you what you need to make your adjustment.
Or, play it safe and pay a shop, not my style. One thing to keep in mind, this is doable for minor adjustment, as we are discussing. You want some interesting video, search doing your own alignment, that is interesting stuff, but because of the MH's width, and dual tire set in the rear, it makes it beyond your average backyard mechanic ability to go beyond simple correction like I was able to do. The simple adjustments are not difficult, but I did sleep at a holiday Inn express last night!
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:10 AM   #20
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Something to keep in mind is that adjusting the tie rod will affect BOTH wheels, not just the side you're turning.
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