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Old 09-08-2016, 05:17 PM   #1
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Which house batteries?

Unfortunately, we had a lightning strike while the vehicle was plugged in to shore. Blew out the converter and lp/CO2 detector, which I have now replaced. And although they say lightning won't harm DC, my house batteries are suddenly weak (actually dead after sitting a few days), but they are 3 years old.
Looking for advice on which brand of AGM battery to use and recommended Ah for the Solera. I boondock rarely, and if I do it's just a couple days.
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:21 PM   #2
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Duracel grp 31 agm at sams club will fit and reasonably priced. Installed mine earlier this year, performed great boondocking in the southwest this summer. Very happy with them. I think they are 105 ah each which is more than the original batteries. Nice to not have to add water.
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:24 AM   #3
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X2. I got mine from batteries + just outside Washington DC. Much less expensive in the US. In Canada, even after exchange it was going to cost 35% more. Very pleased with the service, they helped get the batteries in place. It's a little tighter than the group 27s so have an extra pair of hands was a real benefit.
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Old 09-09-2016, 03:23 PM   #4
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I like Crown Batteries

If you don't mind the cost and a bit of extra weight, Crown builds some of the best batteries out there, I believe.

I don't boondock often and would run the generator if I could, but the Group 31 batteries will fit and I like to have the extra capacity.

Here is the post I made about the battery install on a Forester MBS. Be sure to tug on all of the crimped ends of the battery cables - the process used to crimp them could use some improvement.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:43 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies!
I decided to have the batteries load tested before replacing. Both tested good. Hmmm...Not the news I wanted to hear, since it means there's another problem.
I got out the multimeter and there's a 2.5 amp draw with nothing on---even with the master switch off. I could hear the converter cooling fan come on for 5 seconds or so when I reconnect the batteries, so I dropped it off again today at the shop that installed the new WFCO converter. Reputable place, but evidently the batteries are good but they have wired it incorrectly!

So--My piece of advice: If you have a converter replaced (or any wiring service performed), it's a good idea to bring your multimeter (or use theirs) to confirm there is no abnormal parasitic draw on the batteries before driving off the lot.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:17 AM   #6
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Be advised. The battery cutoff switch (near the side entry) does not cut off 12volt power to the coach when plugged in to shore power. It simply disconnects the coach batteries from the converter and the12volt loads loads.

The loads are still connected to the converter, which is why you still have a current draw. First guess, 12v tv got fried and now drawing current when off.

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Old 10-01-2016, 04:30 PM   #7
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To the OP, why spend money on batteries that are rated high in AH when you said you rarely boondock, it just seems like a huge waste of money. Just sayin'
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:45 PM   #8
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Which house batteries?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Kickin View Post
To the OP, why spend money on batteries that are rated high in AH when you said you rarely boondock, it just seems like a huge waste of money. Just sayin'

When needed, I think I'll get those Duracell group 31 AGM's just for their maintenance free qualities.

BTW, Does anyone know if your house batteries are dead if you can still bring your slides in on Shore power?


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Old 10-01-2016, 05:03 PM   #9
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Should be as long as they aren't shorted out.


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Old 10-02-2016, 07:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecopco View Post
When needed, I think I'll get those Duracell group 31 AGM's just for their maintenance free qualities.

BTW, Does anyone know if your house batteries are dead if you can still bring your slides in on Shore power?


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My reply was specific to the OP, in regards to his specified use. As to your situation, buy a battery hydrometer and test yours, that way you will remove the guesswork on the state of your batt(s), and the possible replacement of perfectly good batts.
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