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Old 11-02-2015, 11:38 AM   #31
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One side-note as I put my 2014 24R water heater on bypass...


The previous owner said the power inventer was bad from the factory, so the dealer replaced it. I looked under the sink, under bed, etc. and could not find it. When I removed the water heater panel, there it was. BUT, the J..kA.. that replaced it just let it lay on all the existing wires in the area instead of screw it back to the wall -- mostly wiring from the control panel above the Fridge ! In addition, there is a furnace duct hose going to the rear bedroom, and the corner/weight of the inverter tore the hose open.


All very easily fixed, but all due to a piss poor Dealer repair. They installed a PD9160A. I have to check to see if that is one that has 4-stage battery charging circuitry.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:44 AM   #32
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Put an empty soda bottle, or ping pong balls, in the filter canister to minimize the amount of antifreeze it will hold...



It wouldn't hurt anything but is a waste of expensive antifreeze to totally fill up the canister...
Expensive Antifreeze ???
Not sure where you are buying your Antifreeze,,,
But I do not consider $2.69 per gal. Expensive !!!
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Old 11-03-2015, 12:53 PM   #33
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Expensive Antifreeze ???
Not sure where you are buying your Antifreeze,,,
But I do not consider $2.69 per gal. Expensive !!!
It averages $4.00-$5.00 around gallon here. I recently bought mine at Ace Hardware on sale for $2.49 a gallon.

At any price using around a third of a gallon filling an empty container is a "waste" to me. And it is just more crap to flush out later. I'm cheap and lazy...
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:12 AM   #34
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Well ok Cheap & Lazy !!!
LOL !!!
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:24 PM   #35
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I'm winterizing my 24S and have a question. Under the RF below the kitchen sink and by the step, there are red and blue water lines that go straight down and have removable caps. I never read about them before. I suppose I need to open them and make sure antifreeze gets to them. Seems like a bad idea to have water lines below the chassis. They could freeze during sub freezing driving.
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:37 PM   #36
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I'm winterizing my 24S and have a question. Under the RF below the kitchen sink and by the step, there are red and blue water lines that go straight down and have removable caps. I never read about them before. I suppose I need to open them and make sure antifreeze gets to them. Seems like a bad idea to have water lines below the chassis. They could freeze during sub freezing driving.
Low point drains. Open them up and make sure all the water is out before adding AF.
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:40 PM   #37
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Low point drains. Open them up and make sure all the water is out before adding AF.
Makes sense. Thank, headed out to do that right now. Draining tanks as I type.
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:44 PM   #38
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Opened up those low point drains and all the faucets. Now I am wondering why not just drain and forget. Where would you pressurize from to blow the last remnants out?
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:47 PM   #39
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Opened up those low point drains and all the faucets. Now I am wondering why not just drain and forget. Where would you pressurize from to blow the last remnants out?
There are adapters available which connect an air hose to the city water inlet, allowing you to blow out the water lines by opening one outlet at a time. Not sure what the correct value is, but air pressure needs to be limited to avoid damaging the plumbing.

Here's a link to an adapter at Camping World:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...out-hose/69232

Dave
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:06 PM   #40
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Forest River Class C MH Owner's Manual says do not exceed 30 psi
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