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Old 10-04-2014, 05:36 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by offroad View Post
Always wondered about water freezing in the P-Traps and why it would hurt anything at all.

Its the expansion that damages things, like a full hot water tank or a pipe.
If the freezing water has no where to go when it expands that's how it bursts things.

In a P-trap wouldn't freezing water be just like an ice cube in a tray, it's not contained at all so why would it damage anything? Probably some water left in your HW heater after its bypassed and drained.

Mine still get plenty when I'm running it out the faucets regardless.
I think the bigger problem with the P-traps freezing would be you can't use the sink or shower until they thaw. This could take hours depending upon other variables. By adding some antifreeze you keep them open for use. Freezing might also cause damage if the water expands into the joint area seals of the connections.
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Old 10-05-2014, 06:34 AM   #12
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If it is that cold inside I think taking a shower would be the least of my worries.
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:13 AM   #13
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Freezing might also cause damage if the water expands into the joint area seals of the connections.
X2. It can also cause undue stress on your pipes and cause premature aging. Draining and blowing out your lines is probably sufficient, but $3 for an ounce of prevention isn't much of an investment.
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:21 AM   #14
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Here in Central Texas we do get a cold snap that might last a few days or more. If we happen to be here I blow out the lines, add anti freeze to the P traps and tanks, drain the water heater and be sure that the fresh water tank is empty. Don't forget about the outside shower if you have one. If the temps drop to below freezing just overnight I don't worry about it. Six years I have been doing it that way and so far so good.
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Old 11-16-2014, 11:47 PM   #15
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I went ahead and just winterized our 24R. I didn't want to worry about it for 30 min of work and 2 gal. of antifreeze. Thanks to this forum it was really simple. My process:
1. Opened the access panel under the closet. Bypassed the hot water tank
2. Drained the hot water heater
3. Drained the fresh water tank
4. Drained the 2 low point drains.
5. Removed the water filter canister and dumped the water left the filter out and replaced the canister.
6. Switched the winterize lever to winterize and pumped the RV antifreeze into the pipes. Went to both sinks, toilet, shower and outside water hose and opened until pink antifreeze came out smoothly. This took about 1.5 gal.
7. Poured remaining 0.5 gal of antifreeze in the drains and toilet.
8. I did leave arctic pac on because wasn't able to get both holding tanks drained. (We're plugged in to shore power 24/7).
9. Switched back to normal from winterize.

Ok, what did I forget? There's always something.

Thanks,

Brian


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Old 11-17-2014, 02:54 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecopco View Post
I went ahead and just winterized our 24R. I didn't want to worry about it for 30 min of work and 2 gal. of antifreeze. Thanks to this forum it was really simple. My process:
1. Opened the access panel under the closet. Bypassed the hot water tank
2. Drained the hot water heater
3. Drained the fresh water tank
4. Drained the 2 low point drains.
5. Removed the water filter canister and dumped the water left the filter out and replaced the canister.
6. Switched the winterize lever to winterize and pumped the RV antifreeze into the pipes. Went to both sinks, toilet, shower and outside water hose and opened until pink antifreeze came out smoothly. This took about 1.5 gal.
7. Poured remaining 0.5 gal of antifreeze in the drains and toilet.
8. I did leave arctic pac on because wasn't able to get both holding tanks drained. (We're plugged in to shore power 24/7).
9. Switched back to normal from winterize.

Ok, what did I forget? There's always something.

Thanks,

Brian


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What do you mean switch back to NORMAL? Just leave everything in winterize mode. Hope you didn't open your H/W bypass?
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Old 11-17-2014, 04:12 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by offroad View Post
Always wondered about water freezing in the P-Traps and why it would hurt anything at all.
If you reside in the wintery (brrrrrr) parts of North America, the remaining water in a P-Trap will expand enough to crack the ABS/IPEX. Been there, done had to fix that.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
What do you mean switch back to NORMAL? Just leave everything in winterize mode. Hope you didn't open your H/W bypass?

I thought I would put the winterize switch back to normal so I didn't forget when I go to de-winterize. I also left the HWH bypassed.



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