Winterizing in warmer climates

[Ecopco]

Hello,

Does anyone have a quick and efficient way to winterize their rig for an occasional cold spell? We plan on using our Solera 24R all winter here in Louisiana where it occasionally gets to be below freezing a few times during the winter months. It seems that the drain everything and blow out with air would be sufficient. I think adding antifreeze would be for much colder climates with prolonged sub freezing temps or if you're not planning on using your rig during the winter. This is our first RV and first winter coming up so I just want to make sure we do this correctly. Love this forum.

[BooBoo23]

Don't forget to add anti-freeze to all your "P" traps since you can't blow that water out.

[Witch Doctor]

If the temps gets up past 32 everyday no use to do the whole thing, I just turn on the tank heaters here at home. If it's a prolong cold spell 2 days or more I just put a ceramic heater in the basement. Never had a problem yet. then I do not have to use propane. I did insulate the low point drains to begin with but now I put valves on the lines inside the basement so water will not be exposed below the belly, the weak link in the whole system. heating the basement you don't need to worry about your pee traps. I'm sure our winters are lot colder then down in Jazz land.

[tommyb]

don't need antifreeze in p traps if you just take them apart (over a bucket).

[jlbreaux]

We are on our 3rd camper and all I have done is drain all the water out of the tanks as well as the water heater.

[Mikegjax]

I have mine on shore pwr and run the heat pump. I open the door to the water filter and the door where the water pump is. That allows heat to get to the basement. Also Open the cabinet doors below the sink and wash basin. If it is going to be below freezing very long I will turn on the arctic pack. No problem last year but we don't normally get severe freezes in north Florida.

[BooBoo23]

Originally Posted by tommyb

don't need antifreeze in p traps if you just take them apart (over a bucket).

It's a lot easier to put a cup of anti-freeze in than to screw around under a sink, and what do you do about the shower/tub.

[offroad]

Always wondered about water freezing in the P-Traps and why it would hurt anything at all.

Its the expansion that damages things, like a full hot water tank or a pipe.
If the freezing water has no where to go when it expands that's how it bursts things.

In a P-trap wouldn't freezing water be just like an ice cube in a tray, it's not contained at all so why would it damage anything? Probably some water left in your HW heater after its bypassed and drained.

Mine still get plenty when I'm running it out the faucets regardless.

[solera rookie]

If you have the Arctic Package on your 24R, it seems to me that is all you need. Plug in your RV and turn on the switch. It seems you would only have to do this if forecasts are to be under freezing continuously for 24-48 hours without going above freezing.

[Mikegjax]

What you say is true for the tanks, but I like to ensure all of the lines, pump, filter, traps and water heater all stay above freezing. Probably overkill but does not hurt.

[keith_h]

Originally Posted by offroad

Always wondered about water freezing in the P-Traps and why it would hurt anything at all.

Its the expansion that damages things, like a full hot water tank or a pipe.
If the freezing water has no where to go when it expands that's how it bursts things.

In a P-trap wouldn't freezing water be just like an ice cube in a tray, it's not contained at all so why would it damage anything? Probably some water left in your HW heater after its bypassed and drained.

Mine still get plenty when I'm running it out the faucets regardless.

I think the bigger problem with the P-traps freezing would be you can't use the sink or shower until they thaw. This could take hours depending upon other variables. By adding some antifreeze you keep them open for use. Freezing might also cause damage if the water expands into the joint area seals of the connections.

[Mikegjax]

If it is that cold inside I think taking a shower would be the least of my worries.

[rana]

Originally Posted by keith_h

Freezing might also cause damage if the water expands into the joint area seals of the connections.

X2. It can also cause undue stress on your pipes and cause premature aging. Draining and blowing out your lines is probably sufficient, but $3 for an ounce of prevention isn't much of an investment.

[PhoneDude 8289]

Here in Central Texas we do get a cold snap that might last a few days or more. If we happen to be here I blow out the lines, add anti freeze to the P traps and tanks, drain the water heater and be sure that the fresh water tank is empty. Don't forget about the outside shower if you have one. If the temps drop to below freezing just overnight I don't worry about it. Six years I have been doing it that way and so far so good.

[Ecopco]

I went ahead and just winterized our 24R. I didn't want to worry about it for 30 min of work and 2 gal. of antifreeze. Thanks to this forum it was really simple. My process:
1. Opened the access panel under the closet. Bypassed the hot water tank
2. Drained the hot water heater
3. Drained the fresh water tank
4. Drained the 2 low point drains.
5. Removed the water filter canister and dumped the water left the filter out and replaced the canister.
6. Switched the winterize lever to winterize and pumped the RV antifreeze into the pipes. Went to both sinks, toilet, shower and outside water hose and opened until pink antifreeze came out smoothly. This took about 1.5 gal.
7. Poured remaining 0.5 gal of antifreeze in the drains and toilet.
8. I did leave arctic pac on because wasn't able to get both holding tanks drained. (We're plugged in to shore power 24/7).
9. Switched back to normal from winterize.

Ok, what did I forget? There's always something.

Thanks,

Brian


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[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Ecopco

I went ahead and just winterized our 24R. I didn't want to worry about it for 30 min of work and 2 gal. of antifreeze. Thanks to this forum it was really simple. My process:
1. Opened the access panel under the closet. Bypassed the hot water tank
2. Drained the hot water heater
3. Drained the fresh water tank
4. Drained the 2 low point drains.
5. Removed the water filter canister and dumped the water left the filter out and replaced the canister.
6. Switched the winterize lever to winterize and pumped the RV antifreeze into the pipes. Went to both sinks, toilet, shower and outside water hose and opened until pink antifreeze came out smoothly. This took about 1.5 gal.
7. Poured remaining 0.5 gal of antifreeze in the drains and toilet.
8. I did leave arctic pac on because wasn't able to get both holding tanks drained. (We're plugged in to shore power 24/7).
9. Switched back to normal from winterize.

Ok, what did I forget? There's always something.

Thanks,

Brian


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What do you mean switch back to NORMAL? Just leave everything in winterize mode. Hope you didn't open your H/W bypass?

[kandl]

Originally Posted by offroad

Always wondered about water freezing in the P-Traps and why it would hurt anything at all.

If you reside in the wintery (brrrrrr) parts of North America, the remaining water in a P-Trap will expand enough to crack the ABS/IPEX. Been there, done had to fix that.

[Ecopco]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

What do you mean switch back to NORMAL? Just leave everything in winterize mode. Hope you didn't open your H/W bypass?

I thought I would put the winterize switch back to normal so I didn't forget when I go to de-winterize. I also left the HWH bypassed.



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