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Old 11-07-2013, 05:34 PM   #11
'79 Bonneville
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Vermont
Posts: 81
I also learned the hard way that you need to blow the air through the rinse valve for the blackwater tank - water in the relief valve in that path will break it

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Old 11-09-2013, 11:34 AM   #12
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Posts: 29
OK, now can someone help with where the fresh water tank drain valve is?? Thanks!

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Old 11-09-2013, 12:16 PM   #13
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Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,124

Look in two places one is under the fresh water tank. There's a tube there around the spare tire just unplug it. Might have to look above the spare tire for it. Then in the large rear passenger side compartment on the back wall there's a compartment open it up and there's a valve inside to drain the tank. I found the tube under the Solera easier to get to.
Henry & Tena
2013 Solera 24S
The Great Escape
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:52 PM   #14
'79 Bonneville
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Vermont
Posts: 81
Ours is a 24M - there is a panel under the tank with a round white plastic opening with a screw-on cover. Behind the cover is a plastic tube with a valve to drain the tank. It is slow-flowing so allow lots of time to wait for it to stop and try to tilt the Solera to make the drain the low corner of the panel.
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:15 PM   #15
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I winterized my 2013 Solera 24R today...I think! The manual that came with it is useless; some general text that seems to cover everything from diesel pushers to Class C rigs with absolutely no specificity.

I'm no stranger to winterizing RVs, but new to the Solera, and have a couple of questions.

1. In the side compartment where the water filter and electric cable are located, there is a "Winterizing" valve labeled "Normal" and "Winterize." Is this the water heater bypass valve? The water heater is located on the opposite side of the coach, but there is no access to it that I can find. It appears to be located below the closet, but there are no identifiable access panels.

2. Inside the water filter compartment, there is a blue hose with a valve in it. Opening the valve lets water come out underneath the coach. I presume this is the water tank drain, correct? The manual simply says "drain the water tank." Very helpful!

Thus far, I have...

* Drained the holding tanks

* Put the "Winterize" valve in the winterize position (and await confirmation...Question 1...that this is the water heater bypass

* Shut off the water heater and drained it

* Drained the water tank (I think, pending an answer to Question 2)

* Removed the water filter and replaced the empty housing

* Blown out the water lines with compressed air (35 psi)

* Blown out the black tank rinser, and

* Put RV anti-freeze in all the drain P-traps.

What did I miss? Thanks for any guidance here, especially with the two questions.

Tranquil Jim
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:19 PM   #16
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 632
Wow. Glad I don't winterize. I'd never get it!
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:35 PM   #17
2012 Solera 24S
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NW Illinois
Posts: 102
I have a 2012 24S so my responses may be a little different than on your rig but here goes.

No, the valve in the drain compartment redirects the suction from the house pump to the glycol fill hose that is in the same compartment. Use this to pump glycol through the system. This hose may be zip tied to other hoses in the compartment, it will have an open end.

In my 24S, the hot water heater bypass arrangement is accessed through a panel in front of the bed that allows you to reach the valves in front of the water heater. If you do not have this panel, you will have to access it some other way.

As far as the fresh water tank drain valve, mine is accessed through an access panel in the rear storage compartment.

Don't forget the low point drains as well. I have hot & cold water low point drains near the steps under the kitchen sink, you may have these as well as others.

My process went as follows:

1. Drain the waste holding tanks.

2. Remove water filter cartridge.

3. Reinstall water filter housing.

4. Bypass hot water tank.

5. Drain hot water tank by removing anode.

6. Open low point drains to drain as much water as you can, both hot and cold. Reinstall plugs in low point drains.

7. Connect compressed air to the fresh water inlet (with a regulator set at 20 psi if your compressor has one, otherwise be careful!) and then open all of the hot and cold water valves in the coach to blow water out of the lines (Don't forget the outside hose, shower and toilet!).

8. Open low point drains to blow all water out that may have been collected.

9. Go around the rig twice, just to make sure as much is removed as possible.

10. Shut off compressor and remove connection from fresh water inlet.

11. Reconnect compressor to black tank flush and blow out flush line for a couple of minutes.

12. Switch winterizing valve to "winterize" and connect a gallon of glycol to the winterizing hose. It will take more than one and you'll hear it when it is empty.

13.Turn on house pump and go to each valve and open until glycol flows out of each outlet (Don't forget the outside hose, shower and toilet!).

14.Go to each valve again!

15. Go to each drain and add glycol to make sure trap is filled with glycol and not water.

16. Remove shower hose and shower head and store where warm.

This took me about 2-3 gallons of glycol but my water filter housing is full of glycol. I tried sticking a bottle in it to displace volume but it blocked the pump suction and I had to remove it. I'll come up with something better next year!

Good luck!
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:08 PM   #18
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Ahhhh...the "Winterize" valve probably is for using antifreeze. Thanks.

Still can't find a way to get to the back of the water heater, however. I'll keep looking.

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Old 12-02-2013, 08:28 PM   #19
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OK...after looking closely...very closely!...I found an inset access panel below the two drawers under the closet. It looks just like a decorative inset panel and, the screws are small and colored the same as the wood.

If I understand correctly, the water heater bypass valves are designed to keep antifreeze from entering the water heater. Since I'm not using antifreeze in the water system, I'm guessing there is no need to use the bypass valves; the compressed air will just blow the water into the heater tank which has been drained.

Any thoughts on that?

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Old 12-03-2013, 08:55 AM   #20
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 342
The purpose of the bypass valving is to seperate the water flows from entering the tank itself during the winterization steps. If you go the non antifreeze route, I would think you would want to set the valves in bypass position, to push air from all the pex lines. Making sure you seperately drain the HW, tank by removal of the anode plug.

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