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Old 09-26-2015, 06:00 PM   #1
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Wire wrapped in loom

There is a wire wrapped in loom that hangs down from the rear of the slide on my 2014 Solera 24S. It's currently hanging free, but if it flips over (when the slide is pulled in), and can get caught in the vehicle emergency brake wires, or other vehicle moving parts. What is it supposed to be secured to??
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:04 PM   #2
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Can you show a picture of the problem, not sure what the wire is? I'll take a look at my 24S in the morning and get back to you.
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:31 PM   #3
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Can't take a photo because the slide is extended, so the wire is at full extension and doesn't hang down. Noticed it under the rig when the slide was in. It's attached to the rear corner of the slide. When the slide was in, the extra hung down right by the emergency brake spring. I don't see anyplace where it should have been attached. It needs to extend with the slide, or I'd have just zip tied it to something.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:54 AM   #4
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I looked this morning the wiring in that area on my 2013 24S is zip tied to the frame or to the propane pipe running under the rig. I don't see any thing hanging down, I put the slide out and back in and don't see what your talking about? Here's some pictures I took under the rig, let me know if I'm looking in the right areas.
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:17 AM   #5
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Hkrek, thank you for the photos. Ive loosely zip tied the wire to the propane pipe to hold it away from the e-brake when I put the slide in. I'll check before I drive to assure it's not in harms way. Please tell me if you think this is ok. I dont want to catch the wire in the brake or other moving parts, or hurt the propane pipe.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:04 PM   #6
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I'm puzzled about the wiring going through the brace on your slide. I can't see my brace under the rig, it's enclosed in the rear compartment in front of the rear tires. As the picture shows the power wire to the slide is a coiled wire plugged into the brace for the slide. The other wires I pictured before don't even go to the slide they go to the back of the rig? I think you may need to have someone from FR look at this. I'll see if I can get a factory rep's attention on this.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:31 PM   #7
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I hope Joshua Cavitt will look in on this thread.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:49 AM   #8
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It looks like something didn't get pulled tightly. Take the loom and zip tie it up and out of the way. There shouldn't be any issues.
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:07 AM   #9
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Thank you, Joshua. I've zip tied it loosely to the propane line. I'll keep my eye on it!
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:22 AM   #10
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No problem! It should be fine there but I would secure it tightly to you propane line.
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:59 AM   #11
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All RV's come with "pre-rusted galvanized steel primary gas line that swtches to copper as it rises to service areas in kitchen...spray entire galvanized pipe with rubber sealant after wire brushing the rust or do rustoleum ! You must find a safer way to secure your wiring than attaching to a gas line....Road vibration leads to insulation loss...then the posibility of electrical galvanic action compromising gas pipe integrity and leaving the options for fire and explosion! Eddy currents and trancient currents in buildngs can do the same thing which is the reason article 250 requires all interior piping to be grounded and bonded together . Grounding and bonding insures overcurrent protection works by conducting fault current to the level of overcurrent interruption rating.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juice5 View Post
All RV's come with "pre-rusted galvanized steel primary gas line that swtches to copper as it rises to service areas in kitchen...spray entire galvanized pipe with rubber sealant after wire brushing the rust or do rustoleum ! You must find a safer way to secure your wiring than attaching to a gas line....Road vibration leads to insulation loss...then the posibility of electrical galvanic action compromising gas pipe integrity and leaving the options for fire and explosion! Eddy currents and trancient currents in buildngs can do the same thing which is the reason article 250 requires all interior piping to be grounded and bonded together . Grounding and bonding insures overcurrent protection works by conducting fault current to the level of overcurrent interruption rating.
Just to add some ideas:

The prerusted gal pipe is actually black iron pipe. Steel, schedule 40. The black coating is actually mill scale from mfg.very hard enduring surface and will outlive any RV built. It's shortcoming is very susceptible to corrosion in salt water or atmospheres w/ salt.
As to NEC rules here's a quip from a rules blog:


Author’s Comment: The grounding rules covered in this book are in reference to solidly grounded alternating current systems, such as 60/120, 120, 120/240, 208Y/120, 480Y/277 V. Other system configurations, such as 3-wire corner-grounded delta system, ungrounded system, or high resistance grounding system arrre permitted by the*National Electrical Code, but they are rarely installed, except in industrial applications.

Low voltage wiring not included, RV'S great majority is LV wiring.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
Just to add some ideas:

The prerusted gal pipe is actually black iron pipe. Steel, schedule 40. The black coating is actually mill scale from mfg.very hard enduring surface and will outlive any RV built. It's shortcoming is very susceptible to corrosion in salt water or atmospheres w/ salt.
As to NEC rules here's a quip from a rules blog:


Author’s Comment: The grounding rules covered in this book are in reference to solidly grounded alternating current systems, such as 60/120, 120, 120/240, 208Y/120, 480Y/277 V. Other system configurations, such as 3-wire corner-grounded delta system, ungrounded system, or high resistance grounding system arrre permitted by the*National Electrical Code, but they are rarely installed, except in industrial applications.

Low voltage wiring not included, RV'S great majority is LV wiring.
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