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Old 01-05-2017, 05:51 PM   #1
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2012 R-Pod 171: Adding a water pressure tank

I wanted to add a water pressure tank to reduce water pump cycling frequency. A side goal was to reduce pump noise when running.

Started with this:
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:07 PM   #2
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First task was to clean up wiring associated with the hot water heater:
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:14 PM   #3
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Followed by unscrewing the water pump from the floor and mechanically installing the pressure tank:
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:23 PM   #4
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Then, I relocated the water pump and teed in the tank. I put a drip pan (a baking tin) under the pump and strainer, with lap sealant between the pan and the floor, and used a 4-1/2 x 4-1/4" piece of pressure treated wood to shim the pump up 1-1/2" to make strainer maintenance easier. I used thin pieces of closed cell foam on both faces of the shim to absorb some vibration; screw holes through the shim were drilled large, 1/4", to reduce direct contact and hopefully vibration. My only frustration is that I have to wait until things warm up to test the rig.
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:45 PM   #5
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That's what I am going to do to my unit when the weather breaks. May I ask where did you get that tank and what size is it? I am thinking about 2 gallons, but I am not sure. I am going to put mine n place of the factory water filter which i have not used. Like you I am going to clean up the area around the water heater. From what I understand the pressure tank is just teed into the blue output line after the pump. Is this true? Thanks. Jay
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:46 PM   #6
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Good work. I did pause at the "baking tin" part. I can see this as forward thinking while wondering what new noise you may have brought to the game? I read that you put something under it. I will wait for your test results and hope you can say the noise is a non-issue.
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:06 AM   #7
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Jay,

The tank's a two gallon Water Worker, got it from Amazon.

Bob,

I ran the pump dry for a moment or two after installation; sounded quiet, but I won't really know how it behaves until I'm pushing water with it.
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:45 PM   #8
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I installed a two gallon unit in my 5th wheel and am not real satisfied with it. Seems like I need more storage. The pump still seems to run almost as often. The less it runs when water is just used for a second or two seems to be made up by the extra that it runs after the water is shut off and it recharges the tank.
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Old 01-06-2017, 02:21 PM   #9
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I also added a check valve and cured a sediment problem

I put a pressure tank to my 2011 Rpod 177 last year. I also added a check valve on the cold water intake to the water heater. I did that because sediment from the water heater kept getting into the cold water lines and plugging up the faucets and toilet water valve. (I had to clean cold water faucets and valves and back flush everything very frequently). That was happening because the air trapped in the top of the water heater was acting as a de facto pressure tank. After constant cleaning of the faucets and toilet cold water pressure valve I realized that the plugging sediment was coming from the water heater. I figured that when a cold water valve was opened any where in the trailer, the air in the top of the water heater would force water from the water heater into the cold water lines until pressure throughout the system equalized. That blast of back flush from the water heater carried sediment that would work it's way through the system causing the problems. After installing a check valve, there have been no more problems with sediment in the system. Forest River should put the $4 check valve in all trailers.
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:15 PM   #10
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YES! Water heater check valve should be standard!

We've had the same problem with our Georgetown 270SSF. It has a 6 gallon Suburban SW6DE water heater. I just called Airxcel (makers of Suburban) and was told that, unlike residential water heaters, their heaters do not have a built-in check valve. The rep said that 99% of coach builders add one, but apparently FR is in the lame 1%.

Your hypothesis makes perfect sense; with that knowledge I'll add a check valve next spring (it's 17 degrees F here today...).

I can't imagine a good reason FR doesn't just add the check valve, since everyone must have the same experience. It's such a cheap fix for this universal aggravation.
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