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Old 09-06-2016, 06:06 PM   #11
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Do you still have the original molded on plug on the umbilical cord. If so, I suggest replacing it with an aftermarket plug.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:35 PM   #12
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I took the right rear wheel apart and check the brake shoes and drums and everything looked as if it was okay. However, that doesn't mean that the rest of them don't have grease on them

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Old 09-06-2016, 07:36 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
Do you still have the original molded on plug on the umbilical cord. If so, I suggest replacing it with an aftermarket plug.
Yes I do. Will have to change those.

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Old 09-06-2016, 07:38 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by sandstormfam View Post
Trobec, did you ever get them adjusted right? Mine wont lock up either and it pulls to the left on a hard break. I'm taking it in tomorrow to get the water heater fixed and I was going to have them check the breaks out too.
I did get them adjusted properly I just think it might be a low voltage to the wheels.

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Old 09-06-2016, 08:00 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by sandstormfam View Post
I have almost the exact same scenario. Old trailer was fine, and this one wont lock up even on b3 and dialed all the way up. It actually breaks very little and my truck is taking on most of the breaking. So that's not good. I found out that my break controller was a little too level or slightly negative, meaning I had it at about 0 degree tilt and I think it wasn't registering properly. I moved the mount up the dash a little so it's sitting about 45 degrees from horizontal and it worked a lot better. I think I was 0 degrees or less with my old mount. I never had to mess with the mount with my other trailer as everything worked fine. I'm taking it in tomorrow and I'll see what they say.
I went to the Tekonsha Web site and they say you can mount them 360 degrees. I will angle it upward and see if that helps.

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Old 09-06-2016, 08:03 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by SKnight View Post
Before your brakes will lock, they need to be warmed up. The directions say to use the manual lever to drag the trailer brakes for a short time to warm them up.
I towed the trailer about 150 miles and tried the manual Switch and still could get it to lock up.

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Old 09-06-2016, 08:42 PM   #17
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I towed the trailer about 150 miles and tried the manual Switch and still could get it to lock up.

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Ment to say "couldn't get them to lock up."

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Old 09-07-2016, 09:51 AM   #18
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I cut the molded on end off the umbilical and replaced it with an after market unit, and it made a night and day difference in the braking power to the RV.

When you cut it off, leave a couple of inches of wire on it, so you can match the color to the function when connecting to the new one.
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:03 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I cut the molded on end off the umbilical and replaced it with an after market unit, and it made a night and day difference in the braking power to the RV.

When you cut it off, leave a couple of inches of wire on it, so you can match the color to the function when connecting to the new one.
What are the plastic things for? Why not just solder the connection?

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Old 09-07-2016, 10:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I cut the molded on end off the umbilical and replaced it with an after market unit, and it made a night and day difference in the braking power to the RV.

When you cut it off, leave a couple of inches of wire on it, so you can match the color to the function when connecting to the new one.
Interesting topic, but if I may show my dumb-side, are we talking about the 'molded on end off the umbilical ' being the wire(s) coming from the controller connected to the truck (plugin) ?
Thx
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