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Old 09-07-2016, 01:11 PM   #21
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What are the plastic things for? Why not just solder the connection?
What plastic things?

You could solder the wires into the plug, but it's going to be hard to find a plug that has solder connections.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:15 PM   #22
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Interesting topic, but if I may show my dumb-side, are we talking about the 'molded on end off the umbilical ' being the wire(s) coming from the controller connected to the truck (plugin) ?
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I think we're talking about the same thing. It's the end on the cable that comes from the junction box on the RV and plugs into the bargman receptacle on the tow vehicle. It has the running lights, brakes and +12 power running in it. The 7-way plug.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:39 PM   #23
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What plastic things?

You could solder the wires into the plug, but it's going to be hard to find a plug that has solder connections.
I'm sorry,I thought you were talking about the plastic connectors that that connect the wires that come out of the axle to the wires for the brakes.

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Old 09-07-2016, 01:40 PM   #24
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I'm sorry,I thought you were talking about the plastic connectors that that connect the wires that come out of the axle to the wires for the brakes.

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I think I have an aftermarket 7 way plug laying around. I'll give it a try.

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Old 09-07-2016, 01:42 PM   #25
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I'm sorry,I thought you were talking about the plastic connectors that that connect the wires that come out of the axle to the wires for the brakes.
No, but that is a good idea. They should be checked as well for a good tight connection. And using some heat shrink tubing, a butt slice, and soldering them, would be a good idea.
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:29 PM   #26
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I went to the Tekonsha Web site and they say you can mount them 360 degrees. I will angle it upward and see if that helps.

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I have an older version which is only good from 0-70 degrees or something like that. So it made a difference with mine.
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:33 PM   #27
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Do you still have the original molded on plug on the umbilical cord. If so, I suggest replacing it with an aftermarket plug.
Thanks Bama. What would make you believe this connection is weak? Just asking. I've never heard that suggestion before. Would you replace the whole pig tail or just cut off the plug and put a different plug on it?
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:50 PM   #28
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Those molded on plugs have some crappy blade connectors, and they don't make very good contact. I've replaced the last three rv's plugs. Also the molding process isn't very good and can cause problems plugging them in.

The cable is usually pretty good, so I just recommend cutting the old plug off and installing a new one.
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Old 09-07-2016, 07:25 PM   #29
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I think we're talking about the same thing. It's the end on the cable that comes from the junction box on the RV and plugs into the bargman receptacle on the tow vehicle. It has the running lights, brakes and +12 power running in it. The 7-way plug.
I am glad you replied... Thanks for clarifying .
I was thinking you were talking about the cable out the back of the brake controller.

So... there can / are poor connections with the 'molded - sealed' connectors that come from the factory that are usually hard wired to the trailer ?

Perhaps this is the reason my trailer does not do the brake lock up test....poor connection - lack of 12v power ?

I put it down to it being a "heavy trailer" .
I have not experienced any braking problems... and all shoes & drums and bearings were personally serviced recently.
I use a Prodigy 2 controller and love it.

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Old 09-08-2016, 11:29 AM   #30
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I've seen it on several trailers, not just RV's.

When someone tells me that the trailer isn't braking hard enough, AND they've checked and adjusted the brakes and wire terminations, then I always suspect the molded on 7-way plug. As I said above, replacing it made a night and day difference on the last few RV's we've owned.

I wish the RV industry had adopted the round pin connectors that the trucking industry uses. They have a lot more contact area and the sockets press around the pins much tighter.
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