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Old 09-08-2016, 12:21 PM   #31
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I suspected my plug too, a bit of folded Emory cloth polished the terminals up, but it was an improvement, not a fix. Though I just remembered I have an aftermarket plug here somewhere.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:00 PM   #32
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This is what I Found !!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I've seen it on several trailers, not just RV's.

When someone tells me that the trailer isn't braking hard enough, AND they've checked and adjusted the brakes and wire terminations, then I always suspect the molded on 7-way plug. As I said above, replacing it made a night and day difference on the last few RV's we've owned.

I wish the RV industry had adopted the round pin connectors that the trucking industry uses. They have a lot more contact area and the sockets press around the pins much tighter.
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This is what I found...

OK... I finally got around to changing the 7-way moulded on pig-tail end to an after market plug.
Now I will have control of making a solid connection inside the plug.

Prior to taking everything apart I was checking inside the junction box to make sure they were all connected to the corresponding locations.
I noticed that the 'brake wire' coming in was discolored and had a melted spot on the jacket.

Further inspection showed some scorched areas inside the junction box and upon removal of the whole wire assembly revealed that the 'brake wire' had been shorting out for a long time.... way before I even owned the unit.

The metal clamp that holds the wire going into the junction box was partially broken and allowed the large multi cable to vibrate until at some point the brake wire shorted out, causing the outer casing to burn/melt , exposing other wires to be damaged.

All this was a big surprise to me... but, luckily I found it before a fire happened or having no brakes down the road.

Pictures show:
- the wires that were going into the junction box (that connect to the truck) revealing the melted casing.
- the New connector that will replace the moulded on one.
- the junction box (scorched) and the clamp that also has some melted metal on it where it was shorting out.

IMO... the clamp that secures the wires going into the junction box probably was "over tightened" squashing the multi-cable. Also I think this probably was done at the factory, as this unit has had very little highway travel before I got it 2+ years ago.
When I reassemble everything I will be placing an extra protective piece of rubber where the clamp tightens around the multi-cable... as a precautionary against squashing and chafe.
Hopefully my braking power will be improved as well.

I posted this not to alarm anyone but only for informational purposes .

Islander
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:04 PM   #33
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With the over ride pushed all the way to the left is get just over 12 volts at the plug on my truck. Plug in the trailer and I get 11.8 on the blue brake wire. Now would it be correct to assume that if I check the wires down by the trailer brakes it should be somewhat close to the 11.8? Granted I would think there would be a little drop on voltage. But how much drop would be acceptable? I checked one and only got 2.4.
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:59 PM   #34
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You should get close to the same voltage at the brakes when the manual level is actuated, that you get when the umbilical is plugged into the vehicle (~11.5 volts).

If you're only getting 2.4 volts at the magnet wires, you have a bad connection between there and the connector. Check both positive and negative wiring.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:21 PM   #35
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So I just go done checking the voltage again with the switch all the way to the left. 11 volts on the controler,10.3 on the trailer side of the plug,10.2 where the blue wire hooks into the black brake wires at the pin box and 8.6 at all 4 wheels. Sound reasonable? Or should there be more voltage at the wheels?
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:08 PM   #36
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I'd go through all the connections between the controller and the brakes and remake them. You want the voltage to be a little closer than that.

Is that 11 volts at the controller with the engine running or not?
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Old 11-10-2016, 02:05 PM   #37
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Engine off. 14 with engine on.
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Old 11-10-2016, 02:06 PM   #38
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I think I need to get rid of all of those quick connectors that they use
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:32 PM   #39
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Those quick connectors can be a problem because they're insulation displacement and if not installed exactly correct, they don't make good connections. Even the type where they strip the wiring, they usually do a rushed job of it.
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:42 PM   #40
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I'm going to chop them off and solder and shrink wrap all the connections.
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