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Old 03-13-2013, 12:01 PM   #11
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Allen, I had a good experience buying used. The advice given above comes from guys with know how, please listen to what they have to say. My advise is also to do lot of research and read the forum. I found a 2011 in 2011 on Craigslist that a guy going through a divorce had to sell. Picked it up for $16.500 and financed for 5 years for about $300 a month. The Rv was just like new. Lots of unfortunate events in people's lives sometimes force them to sell their toys. I visited my local puma dealer to see what a new one looked like and sold for before I pulled the trigger on mine. It will give you a baseline to start your negotiating from. Good luck.
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:09 PM   #12
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I also had a very good experience buying used. The TT was 4 years old at the time I purchased it. We used it for a couple of years then purchased a 2013 Sabre 5th wheel. I'm glad we did it they way we did. As has been said check out the TT very well first.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:25 PM   #13
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Well, went for an initial walk-around today. The (newbie) goal was to get an initial look for layout and general impressions. Based on discussions with the better-half we will call to either pass or set up a date/time for a detailed root-around look at condition.

Pros:
- General cleanliness was excellent.
- Floor-plan open and fits us very well.
- RV includes weight distributing hitch with sway bars.
- Functional storage that should be more than adequate for our needs.
- Overall weight well within the capabilities of our existing vehicle.
- Many upgrades that are functional and in good shape.
- Tires in good condition; just under two years old.

Cons:
- Previous water damage to the Master BR ceiling on the edge. Claims fixed 2 years ago but extent unknown.
- Minor rusting around the base of the hot water heater. Nothing that seems out of line for the age but noticed.
- Indications of a rodent (minor mouse poop) in the exterior access for the refrigerator. Nothing noted in the interior but a detailed search not yet conducted.

Overall, was impressed with the trailer but the "cons" are cause for considerable concern and in-depth investigation.

Price looks to be set by using NADA as average condition at $11k. If you are into splitting hairs and take the hitch and extras out of the equation, the realistic adjusted price he's asking for just the RV looks to be about $9,500.

Leaning toward taking another look with the opportunity to climb on the roof, underneath and dig into the nooks and crannies. Without the additional look, my VERY inexperienced gut tells me to start closer to a $9k offer how it sits and potentially work down from there...


/r

Allen
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:34 PM   #14
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I would run away from that TT. Combination of signs of water damage and rodent infestation spell trouble. If the rodents got into the wiring that could be a mess. Water damage can cost more than the TT is worth to repair. Run do not walk away from this one.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:06 PM   #15
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Allen, spend some time checking your tow vehicle prior to committing. We purchased a used TT after spending 5 hours crawling under/over/through the unit; Lou's checklist is awesome. Our TV at the time was a 2010 Silverado 4x4 and our TT is 20' (roughly 4,000lbs, tongue weight of ~450lbs); the dealer assured us that it (TV) was capable. That arrangement lasted a couple of trips and as my signature shows we now have a 2013 with the 5.3L, 6 speed transmission, and towing package.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mduff View Post
Allen, spend some time checking your tow vehicle prior to committing. We purchased a used TT after spending 5 hours crawling under/over/through the unit; Lou's checklist is awesome. Our TV at the time was a 2010 Silverado 4x4 and our TT is 20' (roughly 4,000lbs, tongue weight of ~450lbs); the dealer assured us that it (TV) was capable. That arrangement lasted a couple of trips and as my signature shows we now have a 2013 with the 5.3L, 6 speed transmission, and towing package.
We have the exactly equipped truck as your 2013 (5.3, 6sp, tow pkg) except that it is a 4wd version. Of note, ours is the extended cab (not quad-cab) and regular bed...

I am not running from the trailer in question but highly suspicious at this point. I will have to grab a boroscope from work to take some more detailed looks...


Allen
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Used Trailer Crash Landings:

ANY of these are "No Go" even if the camper is FREE.

1) Dry, hard, cracked roof caulk with gaps at seams
2) ANY mold or discolorations on the walls (even if the owner SWEARS the old leak was fixed).
3) Bulges or ripples in the siding (especially around windows)
4) Soft spots in the floor (especially in the bathroom)
5) Odd wear on the tires (possible axle damage)
6) Cracks in the gel coat siding (if equipped)
7) Frame cracks anywhere
8) Cracked welds

RUN do not walk away from any of these signs even if the owner swears the underlying cause was repaired. Even if the camper is otherwise perfect, the presence of any of these means the next stop for it is the junk yard.

NEVER EVER buy a used camper without going up on the roof and examining the seam sealant. While the presence of "Eternabond" tape on the seams MAY be a "plus", it is only if the tape was applied to a NEW camper.

Eternabond tape is a poor man's way to try and repair roof leaks. The problem is that by the time the owner discovers there is a leak, the damage to the camper's structure is almost always done. Next stop junk yard or stick in the woods with a green tarp over it as a deer blind.

Or sell to a "Noob" who does not know any better. Don't let it be YOU.

Also be careful if you see NEW caulking, ask yourself why and really take a hard look at the area and remember to press on the walls, floors and ceiling inside for softness.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen_B View Post
Well, went for an initial walk-around today. The (newbie) goal was to get an initial look for layout and general impressions. Based on discussions with the better-half we will call to either pass or set up a date/time for a detailed root-around look at condition.

Pros:
- General cleanliness was excellent.
- Floor-plan open and fits us very well.
- RV includes weight distributing hitch with sway bars.
- Functional storage that should be more than adequate for our needs.
- Overall weight well within the capabilities of our existing vehicle.
- Many upgrades that are functional and in good shape.
- Tires in good condition; just under two years old.

Cons:
- Previous water damage to the Master BR ceiling on the edge. Claims fixed 2 years ago but extent unknown.
- Minor rusting around the base of the hot water heater. Nothing that seems out of line for the age but noticed.
- Indications of a rodent (minor mouse poop) in the exterior access for the refrigerator. Nothing noted in the interior but a detailed search not yet conducted.

Overall, was impressed with the trailer but the "cons" are cause for considerable concern and in-depth investigation.

Price looks to be set by using NADA as average condition at $11k. If you are into splitting hairs and take the hitch and extras out of the equation, the realistic adjusted price he's asking for just the RV looks to be about $9,500.

Leaning toward taking another look with the opportunity to climb on the roof, underneath and dig into the nooks and crannies. Without the additional look, my VERY inexperienced gut tells me to start closer to a $9k offer how it sits and potentially work down from there...

/r

Allen
If your handy, go for the camper in question.. but be forewarned water damage is always more complicated than expected. I did buy a htt with water damage. The price was just too good to pass up. However it took my brother and I all winter to repair..i am happy. Offer them lower than Nada because of anticipated costs for repair, regardless if the repair was made.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:45 AM   #19
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Man, I once had an excellent checklist for a walk through inspection I would use for any camper I bought...new or used. I'm sure if you do a goodle on camper inspection, youll find one. I would say the number one important thing is to check roof and all seams. If seams are cracked and not kept up, walk away. Also, literally push on every square inch of wall and ceiling inside and out. If there are soft spots, walk away. Floor too. Look for demyelination (spelling?) on fiberglass campers. How to spot this is look straight down. Demyelination will appear as wavy areas. That's the fiberglass pulling away. Walk away from that STAT. Also, consider taking a RV repair person with you. Many are mobile and will work in that context. We bought used to save a fortune on depreciation. They depreciate the most the first 4-5 years then level off. I've had mine almost three years and I could still sell it for more than I paid for it. But I got a great deal!!!!
Lynn and Mike
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:35 AM   #20
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Herk provided an excellent checklist with explanations and pictures. Nice one! This is an excellent education. I'm providing another link that has a checklist and reminds you what tools to take to perform a good inspection. Combining the two should have you well organized and educated for inspection--whether you buy new or used.

RV Inspection Checklist

Mike and Lynn
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