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Old 08-23-2011, 04:49 PM   #11
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i'm getting ready to run a 50amp. bought the box w/reciptical for $29 at home depot. may want to check and see if they have the 30 amp version.

u may have additional slots. the cover has break away tabs that exposes the area breakers go in. they will have a slot number beside them.
if u don't have enough slots, u can buy half size breakers to free up some slots.
after the weather cools, i'm going get the underground lines marked then run it. i have an outside box already there with a breaker in it. shouldn't b a problem.

if ur not sure of what ur doing, get help. there is a lot of energy available in one of those utility boxes.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:50 PM   #12
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I agree to all that was said . but if you are only going to run your air conditioner the 20 amp adapter would be fine. unless you wanted to run any other 110v items such as water heater, fridge,microwave etc etc .
imho i wouldn't waste the money if your ONLY running the air as I stated before it only draws 16 amps to start and 13 to run .
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:51 PM   #13
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Wow, lots of answers and great advice in a short amount of time , so thanks to everyone for that. I do have plenty of room in my box, my primary concern was the 200 AMP box. I do have experience (DIY) installing breakers and running wires, I just didn't know if I could exceed the rating of the box. Thanks for all the answers, I did learn some things

Bocephus, lindy and f1100turbo, I was always told that running your A/C through a non 30 AMP circuit was a no-no. Has the thinking on this changed No need to run a 30A if I can run it on a 20A

Great link tentcamper1
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:54 PM   #14
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OOPS, f1100turbo you answered while I was typing. Thanks!
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:01 PM   #15
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i have personally done it this way for years on three different campers with out a problem.
and why would it be a problem if your only using 13 amps from a 20 amp circuit .

here is your amp chart ..


One other thing to keep in mind is many RV appliances require more amps to start the appliance than they do to run the appliance. A roof air conditioner can draw 16 amps to start, but may only use 13 amps once it is running.

120 Volt AC Amp Ratings
Appliance or Electronic Equipment Estimated Amps
Air Conditioner (X number of A/C) 12-16 Amps
Blender 5-6 Amps
Coffee Maker 5-8 Amps
Compact Disc Player 1 Amp
Computer (Laptop) 2-3 Amps
Converter 1-8 Amps
Crock Pot 1-2 Amps
Curling Iron <1 Amp
Drill 2-6 Amps
Electric Blanket 0.5-1.5 Amps
Electric Fan 1 Amp
Electric Water Heater 9-13 Amps
Electric Skillet 6-12 Amps
Hair Dryer 5-12 Amps
Iron 5-10 Amps
Light (60 watt % 120V) <1 Amp
Microwave 8-13 Amps
Microwave (Convection Oven) 13 Amps
Refrigerator in AC mode 5-8 Amps
Space Heater 8-13 Amps
Television 1.5-4 Amps
Toaster 7-10 Amps
Vacuum (handheld) 2-6 Amps
VCR 1-2 Amps
Washer/Dryer 14-16Amps

12 Volt DC Amp Ratings
Appliance or Accessory Estimated Amps
Aisle Light 1 Amp
CO Detector 1 Amp
Fluorescent Light 1-2 Amps
Furnace 10-12 Amps
LP Gas Leak Detector 1 Amp
Overhead lights (Per Bulb) 1 Amp
Porch Light 1 Amp
Power Roof Vent 1.5 Amps
Radio/Stereo 4 Amps
Range Hood (Fan & Light) 2-3 Amps
Refrigerator (LP Gas Mode) 1.5- 2 Amps
Security System 1 Amp
Television (12 volt) 4-5 Amps
TV Antenna Booster <1 Amp
TV Antenna Booster 12 Volt outlet Up to 8 Amps
Variable Speed Ceiling / Vent Fan 4 Amps
VCR Recorder / Player 2 Amps
Water Pump 4 Amp
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:26 PM   #16
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200 amp is standard home service. that shouldn't be any concern, it will handle it.

the only reason i'm going to run service to my trailer is to get the extension cord off the ground. haven't decided yet what size wire to run 10 or 8. same logic as F1100turbo, enough to get by if i have to. i like the heavier contacts of the larger service. will fuse according to wire size.
i have gotten by on a 12awg extension cord and 20 amps for years. i can check each electrical item, just can't run more than one large item at a time.
sense i'm going to bury a cable, will run 220 most likely #8.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:17 PM   #17
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That's good to know guys. I just checked my box and I have no breakers less than a 20A so I'm good. I went out and fired up the A/C in it and it ran great. Shouldn't have to worry about adding a 30A unless the wife kicks me out and makes me live in it Thanks again to everyone for the help.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:36 PM   #18
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Is the 13-16 amp draw for a 13.5 or 15k BTU A/C unit? I ran my A/C once with no problems on a 20 amp breaker with adapter. I just don't want to risk damage to the unit. I would only use the A/C on rare occasion.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjarrard View Post
Is the 13-16 amp draw for a 13.5 or 15k BTU A/C unit? I ran my A/C once with no problems on a 20 amp breaker with adapter. I just don't want to risk damage to the unit. I would only use the A/C on rare occasion.
I run my Coleman 15K, Converter, Fridge, Tv and computer without ever tripping the home run 20 amp circuit breaker that feeds that outlet. The camper is the only thing plugged into that breaker. I would NOT try to fire up the microwave though!
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:10 PM   #20
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Now the question is, how many amps does the 12 cubic foot fridge and converter draw? The trailer is cooling inside now. I am going to install the Dish network receiver. I am getting ready for our planned Labor Day trip next week! Thanks for the input!
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