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08-23-2011, 06:30 PM
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#21
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjarrard
Now the question is, how many amps does the 12 cubic foot fridge and converter draw? The trailer is cooling inside now. I am going to install the Dish network receiver. I am getting ready for our planned Labor Day trip next week! Thanks for the input!
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read up a few post to my chart
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08-23-2011, 06:52 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Eastern Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 2,618
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Also watch for anything running off that breaker in the house.
Check your tt's cord to see if it feels warm or hot. Check the prongs on your plug to see if they are turning black. Those are signs of low voltage.
Hope it all works out for you. Have fun on that Labor Day trip!
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08-23-2011, 07:10 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 254
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I have a 100 amp service in my garage and have 4 - 30 amp rv outlets. You will be fine with a single 30 amp plug on a 200 amp service. MAKE sure you get a 110 3 prong RV outlet (bought all mine at Home Depot) a lot of people wire them 220 because the old dryer outlets are the same. If you wire it 220 it will fry your converter / charger Amazon.com: Leviton 7313 30 Amp, 125 Volt, NEMA Tt-30R, 2P, 3W, Flush Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, For Recreational Vehicles, Side Wired, Steel Strap, Black: Home Improvement
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08-23-2011, 07:24 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grhodes50
Also watch for anything running off that breaker in the house.
Check your tt's cord to see if it feels warm or hot. Check the prongs on your plug to see if they are turning black. Those are signs of low voltage.
Hope it all works out for you. Have fun on that Labor Day trip!
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this is true. i initially purchased a cheap plastic adapter to bump my 50A down to a standard 20A household plug.
it did seem to run my ac with no problems, but the adapter got fairly warm. it looked like this only it was black and cheaper looking lol. please note the plugs are wrong in the pics, but im just using them as an example
then i got a nice name brand adapter that looks like this, and my heat problem was eliminated
__________________
2006 Cherokee Wolfpack 295WP - 2 Interstate U2200 6v, 1500w inverter, clear lens LED clearance and tails, Starlight Revolution 300 lumen LEDs EVERYWHERE!
2012 Dodge 2500 - deleted and tuned by H&S performance
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08-23-2011, 07:41 PM
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#25
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjarrard
Now the question is, how many amps does the 12 cubic foot fridge and converter draw? The trailer is cooling inside now. I am going to install the Dish network receiver. I am getting ready for our planned Labor Day trip next week! Thanks for the input!
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The Dometic 12 CU FT fridge is model number NDR1292.
According to the attached Manual it draws 420 Watts of 120 VAC (2 210 Watt 60 Volt heaters in series) Page 17 That works out to 3.5 amps for the 12 CU FT heater. The AC line has a 5 Amp fuse in the AC input line.
The DC feed is fused at 3 Amps DC (or 36 Watts). If the converter is supplying the full 36 watts DC control power, it will add 0.3 amps AC to the AC load for a total of just under 4 amps.
Now the Converter draw (in AC) is totally dependent on the DC load on the converter. Charging a low battery; and lighting those incandescent bulbs; and running the stereo; yada yada; could consume the entire 55 amp (my converter) DC output of the converter. 55 amps DC times 12 volts = 660 watts = how many AC amps at 120 volts? = 5.5 amps VAC
So keep the DC load to a minimum and you should be able to run the AC; Fridge; radio/TV; and charge the battery while on a 20 Amp dedicated circuit. Just don't try the heaters and the microwave.
That help?
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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08-23-2011, 08:28 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SD
Posts: 441
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It amazes me how many people will drop 10 -20K and up on an RV and not spend $100-$200 to make sure it gets the proper amount of power. They always talk to a bunch of friends who have done it for years with no problem but there are alot of variables. Cord length and gauge are important and to an extent is the conductors feeding the recep. Also, most home receptacles are rated 15 amps and are fed with 20 amps but most 20 amp breakers will hold 20 amps continuously. That generally winds up burning up the recep as well as whatever's plugged into it. Are you positive you don't want to run the frig and maybe a couple of lights as well as the air? It can add up. As an electrician, we install a few RV outlets every spring and usually repair the damage caused by the adaptor setup.
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08-23-2011, 09:31 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Eastern Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 2,618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast murray
It amazes me how many people will drop 10 -20K and up on an RV and not spend $100-$200 to make sure it gets the proper amount of power. They always talk to a bunch of friends who have done it for years with no problem but there are alot of variables. Cord length and gauge are important and to an extent is the conductors feeding the recep. Also, most home receptacles are rated 15 amps and are fed with 20 amps but most 20 amp breakers will hold 20 amps continuously. That generally winds up burning up the recep as well as whatever's plugged into it. Are you positive you don't want to run the frig and maybe a couple of lights as well as the air? It can add up. As an electrician, we install a few RV outlets every spring and usually repair the damage caused by the adaptor setup.
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Kind of like we bragg about how we cut corners and saved a few bucks and then complain when the manufacturers do it!
My Home Hook Ups
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08-23-2011, 10:07 PM
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#28
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 3,368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast murray
It amazes me how many people will drop 10 -20K and up on an RV and not spend $100-$200 to make sure it gets the proper amount of power. They always talk to a bunch of friends who have done it for years with no problem but there are alot of variables. Cord length and gauge are important and to an extent is the conductors feeding the recep. Also, most home receptacles are rated 15 amps and are fed with 20 amps but most 20 amp breakers will hold 20 amps continuously. That generally winds up burning up the recep as well as whatever's plugged into it. Are you positive you don't want to run the frig and maybe a couple of lights as well as the air? It can add up. As an electrician, we install a few RV outlets every spring and usually repair the damage caused by the adaptor setup.
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Yep! and then complain about the price of RV toilet paper.
__________________
2021 F350 Lariat 7.3 4X4 w 4.30s, 2018 Wildcat 29RLX
2012 BMW G650GS, Demco Premiere Slider
1969 John Deere 1020, 1940 Ford 9N, 1948 Ford 8N
Jonsered 535, Can of WD-40, Duct Tape
Red Green coffee mugs
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08-24-2011, 12:31 AM
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#29
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Just a member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 921
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Install an exterior GFI outlet matched to the breaker in your panel. If you're overloading the exiting circuit it will become immediately evident but more importantly, nothing gets fried.
__________________
K&L + the Wild Bunch
TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge 3500 SRW Crew HO CTD
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08-24-2011, 08:47 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SD
Posts: 441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kandl
Install an exterior GFI outlet matched to the breaker in your panel. If you're overloading the exiting circuit it will become immediately evident but more importantly, nothing gets fried.
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Be careful not to mistake ground fault protection for overcurrent/overload protection. A GFCI should keep you from getting a shock but if overloaded they'll melt into a plastic mess with burned spots on it.
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