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07-11-2012, 10:03 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Linden CA
Posts: 10
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A/C and Batteries
If my batteries are completly dead and will not take a charge, trailers have sat for a couple years. Will my A/C not come on just hooked up to a 110 extension cord from the house or just on the generator, the batteries are still in trailer and hooked up just DEAD.. My a/c sounds like it is kicking on but doesnt start blowing air so I wasnt sure if maybe the batteries were sucking voltage away and not letting it have enough start up power! Anyone know about this.. I know I am picking up batteries this weekend. TIA for any help!
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07-11-2012, 10:15 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 52
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I'm no expert but you shouldn't attempt to run your A/C on anything less than a 30amp circuit. A "110 extension cord" doesn't sound like a very good idea. Chances are you're causing some serious problems to your A/C unit. As for the batteries, if you have the camper plugged in to a proper 30 amp power source, your A/C should run regardless of the battery(s).
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Sailfish Bret
2013 F150 SuperCrew Lariat
Ecoboost 3.73 locker Max Tow
2013 Flagstaff 26RLSS
2012 Days Camped - 20
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07-11-2012, 10:19 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,337
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We ran our A/C from our 20-amp breaker. We've now installed a 30-amp, but we did do it with a 20-amp and a heavy duty extension cord. We didn't run anything else when running the A/C. Occassionaly we'd trip the breaker when the fridge kicked in, but it didn't happen real often. Problem solved with the new 30-amp.
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2012 Rockwood 8293RKSS
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins Turbodiesel 4x4; 2012 Ford Escape 4x4. 3 very pampered cats.
Days camped: 2011: 61; 2012: 66 Days; 2013: 69;2014: 68 2015: 90 Days camped 2016: 34
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07-12-2012, 02:13 PM
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#4
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Broken Toe
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Imperial (St. Louis) MO
Posts: 3,745
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if your dc converter is operating, then yes, the A/C should work with dead batteries.
tim
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FROG Member MO-0008-571 Since 20124444444444My Project Blog: https://cowracer.blogspot.com/
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07-12-2012, 02:21 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 393
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Lots of folks use that 110 V extension cord - I did it myself for a while on my last camper. But it does damage the AC unit and can easily ruin it. You will notice how hot the plug gets. A 30A dedicated circuit is much cheaper than a new AC unit, and maybe less than a service charge.
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2011 Sabre Silhouette 260BHS
2017 F-350 XLT CC DRW 6.7L
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07-12-2012, 02:34 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,368
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not only these things, but if your batterys are DEAD and your converter is working hard to charge them, that coupled with the amps of the a/c , and extension cord (you ddint say how long or what gauge), could be the issue....your SINGLE 13.5 or 15k a/c unit should work fine on house a/c with proper gauge wire.....you cant run anything else on the circut in the trailer OR house though....A 13.5 a/c only pulls around 12amps running.......
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07-12-2012, 02:46 PM
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#7
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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I agree with IronJ. If your low/dead batteries are being charged by the converter you are pulling a lot of amps away from the rest of the camper.
Trying to start your AC while pulling a significant number of amps through that small "pipe" can drop the voltage being supplied below the minimum AC voltage needed to spin the compressor. This can cause overheating of the compressor motor and major damage to the motor from heat.
Also all 100 extension cords are not equal. A lawn trimmer type extension cord (14 gauge) run 50 feet or more can drop 120 VAC supplied at the wall to less than 100 volts at the other end. This is not enough voltage to run an air conditioner.
A heavier duty (12 gauge minimum) extension cord will have less voltage loss and may work for you. The shorter the better. You can also trip the circuit breaker supplying charging current to the battery so you can run the air conditioner. Note you will have no lights if you do this.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
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07-12-2012, 03:21 PM
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#8
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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shut off converter by flipping breaker then try a/c again .
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07-12-2012, 04:53 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,368
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X2
And make sure you arent using a 16g of 50ft extension lamp cord , that is passed off as an extension these days....
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2015 F350 Platinum Fx4 6.7 Diesel Dually. B&W turnover, B&W Companion, air bags and wireless controller.
2015 Heartland Road Warrior 420 Rt
2012 f250 Fx4 6.7 Diesel crew cab tinted n tuned
2012 lacrosse 318bhs touring- sold
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07-16-2012, 09:49 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Linden CA
Posts: 10
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THanks for all the advice it turned out that since the trailer has been sitting for a long time with no use a little rust built up on the fan motor shaft and it was stuck so I sprayed it good with PB Blaster and with a flick of the finger it was off and running, I found that last week and have been turning it on last few days and seems to be fine now.
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Chevy HD2500 CrewCab 4x4 Z71 Duramax
Sierra Sport by Forest River 38'
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07-16-2012, 09:52 AM
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#11
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Good to know!
Have fun!
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07-16-2012, 10:43 AM
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#12
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Too old to be too smart
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La La Land
Posts: 439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapDad
THanks for all the advice it turned out that since the trailer has been sitting for a long time with no use a little rust built up on the fan motor shaft and it was stuck so I sprayed it good with PB Blaster and with a flick of the finger it was off and running, I found that last week and have been turning it on last few days and seems to be fine now.
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Since PB isn't meant to be used as a lubricant, I'd go back in and use a proper oil on the fan shaft bearings/bushings.
Pop
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2000 F-350 7.3L CC/LB 4WD Lariat 3.73's
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