Ammonia smell in the refrigerator.

[martinak]

As we were getting things ready to head out of our ladr campground we were assalted by the strong smell of anmonia coming, we think, from the fridge (no cleaning supply related). We decided to check it caregilly when we get home but we wonder, What could it be?

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by martinak

As we were getting things ready to head out of our ladr campground we were assalted by the strong smell of anmonia coming, we think, from the fridge (no cleaning supply related). We decided to check it caregilly when we get home but we wonder, What could it be?

I believe that the smell is a warning that something is wrong...

Someone here will have the scientific answer soon!

[SeaDog]

If you smell ammonia the cooling unit is leaking. look around the cooling unit and see if you see any yellow power on the coils this is where the leak is.

[W5CI]

If you are smelling Amonia, the Ref is Dead. you can replace the whole unit or replace just the cooling unit. Good luck as I have been there

[wmtire]

Yes, ammonia smell on a RV absorption refrigerator is not a good sign.

This link may help understand.

http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/02/rv-a...oling.html?m=1

[wahoonc]

Cooling unit is toast. You can get a replacement (better quality) for about half of what a new fridge costs. If you are mechanically inclined you can do it yourself.

Get the "Amish" unit.

Aaron

[Reprise]

As others have said - if it's not dead, it's definitely not long for this world.

When you get your new one, an ARP may help you - it shuts down the boiler if it detects a fast rise in temperature (which is caused many times by running it more than about 3 degrees off level for a long period of time).

I installed one in mine when I got my trailer this spring. www.arprv.com , if you're interested. Ran about $200 shipped, but I figure that's cheaper than a new fridge.

Wasn't too hard to install, once I figured out the instructions, which could definitely use a revision. Oh, and wear gloves when you install the temperature sensor; the thin metal shielding the boiler unit will play havoc with your hands / forearms.

As they mention on the website, even though Norcold & Dometic have addressed boiler overheat issues to some degree (see: recalls, a few years ago, as a result of fires (!), their device gives even more protection.

They also have add-on modules that control auxiliary fans, etc. Mine vents through the roof, but if it were a side vent (in-slide), I'd probably spring for the upper or upper / lower fan versions.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Reprise

As others have said - if it's not dead, it's definitely not long for this world.

When you get your new one, an ARP may help you - it shuts down the boiler if it detects a fast rise in temperature (which is caused many times by running it more than about 3 degrees off level for a long period of time).

I installed one in mine when I got my trailer this spring. www.arprv.com , if you're interested. Ran about $200 shipped, but I figure that's cheaper than a new fridge.

Wasn't too hard to install, once I figured out the instructions, which could definitely use a revision. Oh, and wear gloves when you install the temperature sensor; the thin metal shielding the boiler unit will play havoc with your hands / forearms.

As they mention on the website, even though Norcold & Dometic have addressed boiler overheat issues to some degree (see: recalls, a few years ago, as a result of fires (!), their device gives even more protection.

They also have add-on modules that control auxiliary fans, etc. Mine vents through the roof, but if it were a side vent (in-slide), I'd probably spring for the upper or upper / lower fan versions.

I met the couple that invented the ARP at a camping rally a couple of years ago and attended his seminar with a demonstration.

I was going to have him install his setup, including the fans, but he ran out of the supply he brought with him.

He was supposed to be at another rally I was at recently and was going to have him install it there, but they cancelled coming to the rally.

Might just buy it and put it in myself...although I'm not good with electrical stuff.

[Reprise]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

I met the couple that invented the ARP at a camping rally a couple of years ago and attended his seminar with a demonstration.

I was going to have him install his setup, including the fans, but he ran out of the supply he brought with him.

He was supposed to be at another rally I was at recently and was going to have him install it there, but they cancelled coming to the rally.

Might just buy it and put it in myself...although I'm not good with electrical stuff.

I'm not either, and I had just gotten my TT, on top of it. But I was successful!

The instructions make it more complicated than it is. In a nutshell...

Kill all electrical power before starting, of course...

- Run the temp probe to the boiler tube, clip in place (supplied)
(this is probably the worst part, and it's not even a wiring step)

- Plug in the (2) male 'bullet' connectors from the probe wiring, to the two female on the ARP (polarity doesn't matter)

- Remove one +12v wire supplying the fridge control board; connect to the ARP.

- Connect the one switched +12v from the ARP to that (now vacant) terminal on the fridge control board

- Connect the one -12v from the ARP to ground (either new or shared w/ the fridge is OK)

If you get the version with fans, it's a little more complex, but you gain additional control re: when to turn one / both on (IIRC), some additional diagnostic controls / modes, etc. Still easy, in my book - you're talking 2 wires for each fan, and they connect to the ARP, if I'm not mistaken.

You'll still want to go over the instructions specific to your fridge type, but if I were hooking this up again, I could probably do it in 15min time in my own trailer. I went very slowly & carefully, and it took me about an hour, total.
Had to stop in the middle & make one trip out to a marine store to get a pack of 'dual' male/female terminal connectors(Ancor #230613), as FR connected 2 x 12v wires for power in my Grey Wolf (to one board terminal, loosely twisted together; I decided to spend the few pennies / seconds that FR didn't to fix that, even though it wasn't part of the actual 'install').

The ARP people do supply terminal connectors with the product, as well. I also purchased their recommended relay for $5 (it's a special type), and wired that in, although there was an existing in-line relay elsewhere on the fridge as well.

I mounted the display / control module in the outer compartment for the fridge; if I want to see the fridge temp, put the ARP in bypass, test, etc. - I just take off the outer panel door. Wasn't important to me to be able to view the monitor inside the trailer 24/7 - if that ever changes, it's easy enough to run longer wiring & relocate.

ARP's position is that if you install this on an absorptive fridge when new, you'll likely have the fridge for the life of the rig. Or, at least you won't lose the cooling unit portion of it, which is the main component. If the fridge already shows signs of ammonia leakage (yellow residue on boiler tubes, etc.), it can't 'undo' that damage.

Not sure if the recall actions from both Norcold & Dometic a few years back sufficiently addressed those issues; perhaps they have. ARP thinks 'not', which isn't too surprising...else there'd be no need for their product.

I felt it was worth the extra investment, as I like to have my fridge running throughout my trip, and I can't control terrain en route.

I'd take pictures of all of this to show you, but the trailer is at the dealer, being worked on (and I've been notified that FR is not going to authorize repair on my roof issue, or replace my cabinet facings - but that's a separate thread).

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Cooling unit is toast. You can get a replacement (better quality) for about half of what a new fridge costs. If you are mechanically inclined you can do it yourself.

Get the "Amish" unit.

Aaron

X2000^^^ I did this to my previous camper and if you follow the instructions it will cool better than a brand new reefer for a fraction of the cost.

[Carpercb]

It means the cooling unit has sprung a leak and your refrigerator is now junk. The cost of replacing the cooling unit is more than the price of a refrigerator when you include labor.

[SeaDog]

For me it was a DIY. I replaced the Norcold in my Class A with an amish cooling unit. I feel the amish unit is the best replacement unit on the market. I did it all inside the rig for very few dollars.

[rhutzler]

John,
Years ago I worked on HVAC in the Air Force, which included industrial and residential absorption systems.
Ammonia is not benign, it is very toxic.
There are lots of links that will explain the toxic nature of this substance.
example: https://resusreview.com/2014/ammonia-inhalation-injury/
My suggestion - get your unit to a qualified service area for evaluation.
If the unit is bad - ask them to remove it, and then you could buy a new one and install it yourself - just a thought.
Be safe

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by Carpercb

It means the cooling unit has sprung a leak and your refrigerator is now junk. The cost of replacing the cooling unit is more than the price of a refrigerator when you include labor.

And you end up with another likely short lived unit. I have one that is three years old that is heading south. I already have the Amish replacement unit on order. I will do my own install, but out of curiosity I checked with one of my local mobile RV techs and he said he typically charges ~$350-$500 for an install depending on the difficulty. If you take it to a dealer I am sure it will be close to double that in many cases.

Aaron

[martinak]

Jeez! We bought this trailer new in January 2017 and had it out less than 10 times so far. First, the water tank just collapses on our second trip, now the cooling systemin the fridge fails. Had my old trailer (Layton) for almost 20 years. Nothing wrong with it. So much for quality![emoji35]

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by martinak

Jeez! We bought this trailer new in January 2017 and had it out less than 10 times so far. First, the water tank just collapses on our second trip, now the cooling systemin the fridge fails. Had my old trailer (Layton) for almost 20 years. Nothing wrong with it. So much for quality![emoji35]

Can't really blame the trailer builder for a bad fridge...

In just about every industry it is all about the profit margins and paying the share holders.

Aaron [emoji41]

[Toyman]

Unless you dry camp a lot consider replacing the POS absorption refer with a POS residential refer. You can have hard ice cream & cold drinks.