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Old 10-20-2016, 05:11 PM   #21
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The sticker and the tires match. So the 80 psi would be what FR recommends. See my dilemma? Most everyone says Max psi, but manufacturer says other wise... 30 psi is a big difference. Anyone have a # I could call and ask FR?
I don't understand if the tires and the sticker match that is what you should be running them at. It should have enough to carry the load. Your not under inflated then. Unless they changed or put the wrong sticker on and I don't think so. Your trailer is certified with that sticker. I'm confused on this to be honest, what is the CP on the tire compared to the sticker with the model and pressure on it. Take a picture if you can of both... PS: here are the #'s to call just look for your unit or brand.
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:21 PM   #22
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And where do you get this information? Shocks neither add nor subtract to trailer bounce when the trailer is not moving. Voice of experience!
I agree Old Coot, if anything the shocks would dampen any bounce the trailer has doing as they are designed to do that
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:06 PM   #23
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I don't understand if the tires and the sticker match that is what you should be running them at. It should have enough to carry the load. Your not under inflated then. Unless they changed or put the wrong sticker on and I don't think so. Your trailer is certified with that sticker. I'm confused on this to be honest, what is the CP on the tire compared to the sticker with the model and pressure on it. Take a picture if you can of both... PS: here are the #'s to call just look for your unit or brand.
Yep sticker info and tire info match. These are the tires that came on the unit when we had it built in 2012. So I am leaning toward the 80 psi being the correct pressure. I will try to give them a call tomorrow and see if I can get an answer from FR. Will try to get a pic too...
thanks
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:53 PM   #24
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IF the tires have been changed from what was installed at the factory, the sticker data is TOTALLY WORTHLESS.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:04 PM   #25
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IF the tires have been changed from what was installed at the factory, the sticker data is TOTALLY WORTHLESS.
The tires that are on my unit is what came from the factory. So it should be correct... No tire change, original tires.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:16 PM   #26
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Just remember, the tire companies know tires better than anyone at Forest River or any other rv mfg. Go with what is on the tires.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:34 PM   #27
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:40 PM   #28
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This is on the goodyear website:
Tires are designed to run up to the load and pressure written on the tire sidewall. Unless you have actually weighed your loaded vehicle and adjusted the inflation pressure to carry that load, maintaining proper tire inflation pressure as indicated on the vehicle placard is the number one issue facing RV owners today.
Air is what carries a tire's load. If you run tires with air pressure below the placard recommendation, or below the inflation required to carry the actual vehicle load, nothing but problems will occur. Irregular wear increases, mileage goes down, fuel economy gets worse, and tires may be damaged or destroyed.
Checking your tires with a calibrated air pressure gauge weekly is strongly recommended.

So it is saying to go by the RV placard and not to run it below recommended psi. So I guess I'll call goodyear too... thanks to all.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:46 PM   #29
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Why are you so reluctant to run max cold pressure as molded in the tire and eliminate all the possible problems? Playing with lower pressure than the max cp is just asking for problems.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:51 PM   #30
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Why are you so reluctant to run max cold pressure as molded in the tire and eliminate all the possible problems? Playing with lower pressure than the max cp is just asking for problems.


I agree. People struggle with this all of the time and it is silly. Just fill the darn things to max sidewall psi cold and be done.
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:12 PM   #31
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cause I have wall boards popping out and drawers opening up and stuff just bouncing around... tired of fixing wall boards and having to crawl to the back of a closed RV to push in drawers before opening up my slides...
So I was trying to see if running the lower psi would help or hurt...
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:22 PM   #32
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cause I have wall boards popping out and drawers opening up and stuff just bouncing around... tired of fixing wall boards and having to crawl to the back of a closed RV to push in drawers before opening up my slides...
So I was trying to see if running the lower psi would help or hurt...
I don't know about your wall boards, but most of us have problem drawers/cabinets that come open during transit. They can be easily fixed by either adjusting the catches or replacing them with higher tension catches. That solved our problems with drawers coming open. As far as the tires, I'm with most others, just inflate them to the cold psi on the tire. I can't imagine that tire pressure changes will decrease the frequency of your problem drawers.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:21 AM   #33
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I don't know about your wall boards, but most of us have problem drawers/cabinets that come open during transit. They can be easily fixed by either adjusting the catches or replacing them with higher tension catches. That solved our problems with drawers coming open. As far as the tires, I'm with most others, just inflate them to the cold psi on the tire. I can't imagine that tire pressure changes will decrease the frequency of your problem drawers.
Like I said I always run at the CP but I also went from a "C" rated 50 psi as on the sticker to "D" rated but run those at 65 PSI. My big difference was FR did not give me enough safety room with the "C" rated I had like only a 5% margin with the original tires. But they were in there right to put them on they could carry the load. Now with your set up you shouldn't bounce at all. If his tires are 10 ply and not 14 ply he should be at 80 PSI. Have you ever heard of FR putting on a over rated tire before not me. That's why I asked for a sidewall picture. I could see him having extra bounce from a 110 lb PSI if his weight is alot lower. Probably balancing them would help also. How do you adjust the catches on drawers? I have only 1 that always or at least 80% of the time will open on me. I need to check that all the time before opening my slide out. Thanks.. PS: I think he should also get his trailer weighted loaded before he does anything,...
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:53 AM   #34
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Adjust the cabinet/drawer latches or replace and you might even try slowing down on rough roads. Believe me running less than max cp air will eventually cause you more damage than drawers coming open. Voice of experience. I designed and built brackets and installed shocks on my torsion axles which really softened the ride of the trailer and the truck.

Bottom line tho', slowing down on rough roads will help a lot also, even if you have to go down to 25 or 30 mph for a few miles.
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Old 10-21-2016, 10:33 AM   #35
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How do you adjust the catches on drawers? I have only 1 that always or at least 80% of the time will open on me. I need to check that all the time before opening my slide out. Thanks..:us-flag-waving.
Some catches/latches actually have tension settings on them depending on what type you have, but most don't. We replaced most of our latches with 10-15lb tension models you can find at most hardware stores. No more finding open drawers when we stop
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:53 PM   #36
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Just remember, the tire companies know tires better than anyone at Forest River or any other rv mfg. Go with what is on the tires.
The problem with that is only the vehicle manufacturer gets to set the recommended inflation pressures.

Ref: FMVSS 571.120 paragraph S5.3.1
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:02 PM   #37
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You know there is a bottom line to all of this and no one is paying attention to it. The recommendation on the tire placard is always correct for the original equipment tires. On any paper you read about tire inflation that's a fact.

Are the tires in question actually the OE tires? Were they options?

80 psi for those tires = 3042# of load capacity per tire. They are prefixed LT.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:14 PM   #38
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They are the original tires per the OP, from the factory in 2012, he has had good luck with them puppies IMO. But it's just mine.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:38 PM   #39
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The problem with that is only the vehicle manufacturer gets to set the recommended inflation pressures.

Ref: FMVSS 571.120 paragraph S5.3.1
I still say the tire mfg knows best!
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:27 PM   #40
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I still say the tire mfg knows best!
I totally agree but the GY shows two tires 10 ply @ 80 lb PSI and the same size tire at 14 ply which would be 110 psi CP.
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