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Old 10-09-2006, 03:19 PM   #1
USAF Retired & Mrs.
 
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Location: Niagara Falls, NY
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Question Anyone Know How to Drain the Fresh Water

My husband and I are trying to winterize our Georgetown. We`have emptied everything except the fresh water tank. It still has about an inch and a half of water(control panel says it is still 1/3 full). We have taken the caps off both plastic tubes located above the propane tank that appear to be coming out of the fresh water tank. The water is just dripping out of the one tube. This has been going on for over 2 hours. We cannot figure out how to get this tank emptied. Anyone have a suggestion? There does not appear to be a plug or anything convenient that we can see.

Thanks,
Pat in WNY
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Old 10-12-2006, 05:46 PM   #2
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Cool re draining tank

I presume your talking about the freshwater tank. ++++ uncap both those hoses you see by the Lpgas tank and turn you water pump on from inside the motor home and pump thew water out by preasure.. you can also take the right side of the pump off and buy a random length of hose to fit in anti-freeze can( winterizing fluid ) and pump the anti freeze compund thrugh the whole system lettoing enough dran to fill each elbow( dont forget the shower and sink, this should do you well. I use two gallons for my georgetown . I also add a little anti freeze to the bottom of the empty hot water tank to stop any fluid from freezing .let us know how you made out Al ( copout)
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:15 AM   #3
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Unhappy Fresh Water Tank

Thanks Al,

We did try ..... but it looks like that 1.5 inches of water is there to stay. The water pump hose attachment is above the water line.

My husband read in the manual that you cannot totally drain the tank. I find that to be a bit of a health issue. Who wants stagnant water in their fresh water tank? A friend of ours said to just add some anti-freeze to the fresh tank. I don't think I want to add that stuff to a tank that can never be flushed. I guess when the water does freeze (eventually) there won't be much of an expansion problem in the tank itself.

Pat in WNY
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:14 PM   #4
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Georgetown I agree with you on the tank.
Leaving fluid in the bottom is NOT a good thing.
I removed the bottom most fitting on my tank and duct taped a sports bottle
straw to the vac hose.
I then sucked the liquid out of the tank.
I will be putting a bottom drain in next season.
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:09 AM   #5
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You can get one of the pressure adaptors, connect a compressor and blow the water from the tank. I think you will also find, that if you add a significant amount of the antifreeze into the tank, that the expansion of that little bit won't be a problem
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Old 10-17-2006, 02:36 PM   #6
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We used to have a Rockwood that didn't have a low-point water drain - I ended up putting 5 gallons of antifreeze in the freshwater tank so I could be sure the remaining water wouldn't freeze.

Compressed air also works but I'd be careful with it as I hear very high pressures could blow a seal.
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Old 10-18-2006, 10:08 AM   #7
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If you use the water pressure regulator on a short piece of hose, and the connector to a compressor on the other end, it will limit the air pressure to 45psi as well. Works for water and air.
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:40 PM   #8
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You're right that the inch and a half of water won't be a problem when it freezes. However I also agree that it should drain dry. I can't see the pressurizing idea working in a supply tank. You'd pressurize the lines in the trailer but not get past the rv pump into the tank. The only thought I had was to set the wheel opposite the tank up on blocks and see if more water reaches the drain spigot. I personally wouldn't add antifreeze to the tank unless you know you can flush it later... it would take a lot of water (repeatedly fill and empty the tank) to completely eliminate it.
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Old 12-22-2006, 08:15 PM   #9
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Hey Georgetown 370, should have said it in the first Place, in an RV service manual I have it says " if your concerned about the remaining water in a drained Tank then Put the right side of the motorhome up on the curb" I'd say use blocks and tilt the trailor whatever you do DON"T use the Jacks on one side only Youy'll pop the windsheild copout How'd you Make out ??we have a 35 ft boat and we winterize it the same way as our motorhome . Freshen the fresh water tank in the spring with one half cup baking soda go for a short drive to slosh this around , drain and flush a couple of times and your fresh water will not only be sweet it will be nice tasting to start add a touch of Bleach prior to fulhing and that will clean it all out , There is nothing to fear except feer itself. there are lots of tips in Winterizing and de-winterizing . When you fill your tanks through the pressure system to flush don't forget the filter should be new also Copout
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Old 12-28-2006, 04:47 PM   #10
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Talking

Water System Sanitation

It is not uncommon for RV owner to complain of bad water. The first sign of a contaminated water system is usually a bad taste, followed by strange orders emanating from the water supply. Bacteria may have built up in the water tank, especially if the water tank's supply has not been used frequently and has not been replenished with fresh, clean water on a regular basis. When a rig comes out of storage or is being used extensively on a city-water connection, the tank and entire water system should be sanitized before use. Some of the bacterial buildup can cause serious illness; don't take chances!
Drain the water tank completely, then refill halfway with clean, fresh water

Mix ¼ cup of household bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity in a container with a gallon or two of clean water.

Pour this mixture into the water tank.

Top off the water tank with fresh water. Drive the rig around the block to mix the solution.

Pump water through each faucet so that all the lines are filled with the water/bleach

The hot-water tank holds at least 6 gallons of water. Run the hot-water faucets until this much solution has passed to insure that the old water has been purged from the hot-water tank, and it is now filled with the water/bleach solution from the water tank.

Let the water stand for several hours.

Drain the entire water system, hot-water tank included.

To remove the bleach odor, mix ½ cup of baking soda with a gallon of water and pour into the freshwater tank.

Fill the tank completely and pump this solution through the water heater and the rest of the water lines. This solution can sit in the system for a few days. Driving the rig around the block will slosh water around and thoroughly clean the tank.
Drain the entire system and refill with fresh, clean water.
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Old 12-28-2006, 04:48 PM   #11
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Cool Water System Sanitation

Water System Sanitation

It is not uncommon for RV owner to complain of bad water. The first sign of a contaminated water system is usually a bad taste, followed by strange orders emanating from the water supply. Bacteria may have built up in the water tank, especially if the water tank's supply has not been used frequently and has not been replenished with fresh, clean water on a regular basis. When a rig comes out of storage or is being used extensively on a city-water connection, the tank and entire water system should be sanitized before use. Some of the bacterial buildup can cause serious illness; don't take chances!
Drain the water tank completely, then refill halfway with clean, fresh water

Mix ¼ cup of household bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity in a container with a gallon or two of clean water.

Pour this mixture into the water tank.

Top off the water tank with fresh water. Drive the rig around the block to mix the solution.

Pump water through each faucet so that all the lines are filled with the water/bleach

The hot-water tank holds at least 6 gallons of water. Run the hot-water faucets until this much solution has passed to insure that the old water has been purged from the hot-water tank, and it is now filled with the water/bleach solution from the water tank.

Let the water stand for several hours.

Drain the entire water system, hot-water tank included.

To remove the bleach odor, mix ½ cup of baking soda with a gallon of water and pour into the freshwater tank.

Fill the tank completely and pump this solution through the water heater and the rest of the water lines. This solution can sit in the system for a few days. Driving the rig around the block will slosh water around and thoroughly clean the tank.
Drain the entire system and refill with fresh, clean water.
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