Arctic Package

[scoto]

Hi Folks, I purchased a 2013 3170DS (Used) which does not have an Artic Package. Can some one explain what that actually is? I was told by the dealer that I did not need it. I will be using the Sunseeker year round in the New Jersey area. Was not intending on winterizing since I will not really know when I will be traveling. Belong to a Canine Crisis Therapy Team. Any recommendations will be greatfully accepted.
Thanks

[MrJoe]

It's heat pads for the black and gray tanks.

[scoto]

The dealer explained that the tanks are enclosed and heated so I should not need the blankets. Is this true and if so why would they sell the package. Can the blankets be placed on the tanks after manufacture?
Thanks

[MrJoe]

The basement is heated only when running the furnace. Not sure how costly it would be adding the pads.

[garbonz]

Heat pads will not protect your whole water system from freezing and experience significant damage. You will need to keep and assure that your camper does not fall below 32 deg at any time, and that takes running the furnace or providing supplemental heat to the units including the water lines and tanks.

It takes a lot of heat to do this, and you have to make sure the heat is circulated throughout the unit.

[scoto]

What if I drain the tanks so they are empty and try to keep the RV at 40 degrees. Do you think that would work?

[youroo]

Your 1st post said you (Did-Not) want to Winterize,but wanted to use (Year Round). BAD idea! Totally winterize your WATER and Drain systems! You can now (Eat & Sleep) in your unit without the worry! Youroo!!

[2013leprechaun319dsf]

Emptying the HW heater and fresh water tank, blowing out all the lines including outside shower, and putting antifreeze in the pea traps and toilets when <32 is expected would be what I would do. Would be easy to leave at a moments notice and still be easy to make ready upon your arrival IMO.

[GOTTOYS]

Usually it's maybe a minimal amount of extra insulation, heated tanks which don't do anything for the fresh water system and the all important "Arctic Package" sticker by the front door. In reality it isn't much more than a way to charge more. It might afford an 5 or 10 degrees before you freeze up..Big deal...

[youroo]

Originally Posted by 2013leprechaun319dsf

Emptying the HW heater and fresh water tank, blowing out all the lines including outside shower, and putting antifreeze in the pea traps and toilets when <32 is expected would be what I would do. Would be easy to leave at a moments notice and still be easy to make ready upon your arrival IMO.

How would he make it (ready upon arrival) if his NEW location is (Below 32deg.F)also? Youroo!!

[2013leprechaun319dsf]

Originally Posted by youroo

How would he make it (ready upon arrival) if his NEW location is (Below 32deg.F)also? Youroo!!

Dry camping unless he will have furnace and HW heater in cold weather. I was trying to give help gin going from below to above freezing locations.

[2013leprechaun319dsf]

Originally Posted by 2013leprechaun319dsf

Dry camping unless he will have furnace and HW heater in cold weather. I was trying to give help gin going from below to above freezing locations.

Him not gin

[GOTTOYS]

We carry bottled water drinking/coffee and 5-10 gallons for washing and using the toilet if we travel when it's really cold. Leave the water system winterized. The tanks are heated when the furnace is on and in reality we never use more than a gallon or two in a day. If that stays in the tank until it warms up it won't hurt anything. Our water system froze when it hit 15 degrees one day when we were camped using our water tank. Now we just don't use it when it's cold..

[Chrisbrock]

You know the next billionaire genius would be the person that invents a solution that you can pour into any tank that is drinkable and prevents freezing.

[whj77372]

Having been born and raised in Cranford, NJ, I would think that you must do some thing for the winter? it can get pretty cold, even in South Jersey.

[F and E Damp]

The Arctic Pak, sold as an option on FR products, consists of 12VDC heaters that are stuck onto the bottom of the black and grey tanks. The potable tank is not protected.

Depending on the size of the tank and the size of the heating pad, they can draw over 7 amps each, and there are usually two on each tank. The dumb thing as far as I'm concerned is the way the thermostats are set, combined with the fact that they're not adjustable.

The t/stat turns on when it senses the tank temp has dropped to about 40F. I can understand that there would be a lag time in 168 Watts warming up 40 gallons of black or grey water, but I can't understand why they would continue to heat the tanks until the contents got to 64F, which is what the spec sheet for the system on my '02 rig says.

I just can't see pulling 28 amps out of the house batteries for the time it would take to heat 80 gallons of sewage (two 40-gallon tanks) up to 64 degrees! Since we don't see overnight temps below about 25 very often and rarely get winter days that stay below about 36 or so (and we aren't out in the rig then), I disconnected the system. I'd try selling it, but I can't figure out how to get the pads off the tanks!

When I've winterised, and both waste tanks are near empty, I don't see the point of running such a system.

[PHILIPHD]

If the water tank is emptied and I blow out the water lines does this remove the water in the water heater. I just winterized by draining water tank and pumping antifreeze through the system and traps.

[2013leprechaun319dsf]

Originally Posted by PHILIPHD

If the water tank is emptied and I blow out the water lines does this remove the water in the water heater. I just winterized by draining water tank and pumping antifreeze through the system and traps.

You should empty HW heater first, turn off water line to it, then drain low points, then blow out lines followed by antifreeze if you so desire, and in the pea traps too.
You really don't want antifreeze in you HW tank.

[Boxerglocker]

Originally Posted by F and E Damp

The Arctic Pak, sold as an option on FR products, consists of 12VDC heaters that are stuck onto the bottom of the black and grey tanks. The potable tank is not protected.

Not necessarily true for all FR products. I specifically purchased my modest 2013 SC189 because it had a Arctic Package installed and I intend to do several trips in the winter. If the system didn't have a heated potable water tank that would have been a major deal breaker for me.

[Witch Doctor]

I live in Virginia maybe not as cold as you in NJ. I have never winterized here. But my unit is plugged in all the time. The arctic package comes with all tanks heated, all drain elbows, and a enclosed underbelly with a heat duct in the basement. I leave a space heater on, and all the cabinet doors open. When the weather say's it will drop below 32 I turn on the tank heaters. I also use the silver insulation behind the outdoor shower door, wrapped my water filter and cover my water pump. In the AM I run the hot water at each fixture and then run the cold water at each fixture. I have never been frozen upped yet. When camping I disconnect the city water and use the stored water in the tank at night then rehook the city water when the sun comes out. Only one time the water froze at the CG. Had to wait all day for it to defrost. I use my camper atleast every other month during the winter. It would be a real pain to have to winterize after each trip. I understand I might be taking a chance, but it works for me. Lived here 10 years. Back to the arctic pack. I explained what comes with the standard one but you can also get double insulated windows as an extra to that package. With all that said it would be your call, like I said NJ is alot colder then here. You probably be fine if your temps get up above 32 during the day. It's the prolonged cold temps that would cause you a problem.