At what point do I need to "Re-winterize?"

Smiletwice · 03-07-2018, 04:35 PM

We've had a late winter in the Pacific Northwest. Eight inches of snow a week ago. It's almost gone and we're ready to head out on our first trip next weekend. Heading to a warmer place for three days. I'll probably de-winterize when we get there.

According to the long range forecast, we're supposed to see 3-4 nights with overnight lows in the upper 20's when we get back. My question is this...do I need to re-winterize knowing it will be slightly below freezing for a couple nights? Would it be enough to just drain the water heater and the low points and run the water pump just long enough to clear the the majority of water out of the lines? Am I just worrying too much and it will be fine? Appreciate any insights. I'd hate to be down waiting for waterline repairs just as the season gets going!

BuzzWolfAR · 03-07-2018, 04:38 PM

You really have little to worry about. When I returned from a trip two weeks ago, drained the water heater and used air to empty the lines and low water drains.

Odds of an issue with a couple of nights in the upper twenties is low.

**ependydad** · 03-07-2018, 04:54 PM

Personally, I'd blow out the lines with an air compressor with those kinds of temperatures coming.

Used to take me longer to get the air compressor out than it did to actually blow out the lines.

Kimber45 · 03-07-2018, 04:55 PM

I think you answered your own question. Is it really worth the risk? I would at least do something. Drain it, blow it out, leave valves open, run a small heater in it, something. Don't do a thing and you will be kicking yourself if it does freeze. RV anti freeze is what $3 a gallon? well worth not laying awake worrying.

Witch Doctor · 03-07-2018, 05:58 PM

As long as it gets above freezing during the day there is really nothing to worry about as long as your unit basement is enclosed. Many nights I was below 32 and just had to disconnect the city waterline. I bet if you check the forecasted hourly you won't be below that many hours. If over 24 hours them drain everything. It would take that long before it would even start to freeze.

marinerjoe · 03-08-2018, 04:34 AM

I dewinterized our camper before our trip south in February. When we returned last week I didn’t blow out my lines. Two days ago the temperature dropped below freezing just after midnight, got down to 26 by dawn, and back over freezing by 8 am. I checked the camper yesterday and all was well. But I’m keeping an eye on it until the cold weather is gone. By the way, I’m in Virginia Beach.

youroo · 03-08-2018, 06:04 AM

If I lived in Key West,Fla I probably would Not Worry about Winterizing! Any place else where the Temp is going down below 32 F I would "Winterize"! The last time I checked 32F will Freeze Water and "Bust/Crack/Damage/Fitting and Fixtures! If Locating and Replacing just a Leak in Hard to get to Location is your desire,Don't Winterize!

Youroo!!

mjones12 · 03-08-2018, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by youroo

If I lived in Key West,Fla I probably would Not Worry about Winterizing! Any place else where the Temp is going down below 32 F I would "Winterize"! The last time I checked 32F will Freeze Water and "Bust/Crack/Damage/Fitting and Fixtures! If Locating and Replacing just a Leak in Hard to get to Location is your desire,Don't Winterize!

Youroo!!

Last time I checked, water inside a camper does not instantly freeze when the outside air temp hits 32.

As marinerjoe describes, it depends on what the water temp was to begin with and how long the air temp stays below 32. It takes a while for freezing air to bring down the temp of other things.

ddbck · 03-08-2018, 02:17 PM

Nope, you will be fine with a simple draining.

timfromma · 03-08-2018, 02:19 PM

When in doubt, pump in the antifreeze. A couple of gallons of RV antifreeze plus 20 min of your time is a small price to pay for peace of mind and avoiding potential problems.

tomkatb · 03-08-2018, 02:35 PM

My rv is supposed to come with heat in the basement plus 12 volt heat pads on the three tanks.

Assuming the furnace is running in the RV it should be fine.

timfromma · 03-08-2018, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomkatb

My rv is supposed to come with heat in the basement plus 12 volt heat pads on the three tanks.

Assuming the furnace is running in the RV it should be fine.

If you want to gamble on a "should", go right ahead.

Witch Doctor · 03-08-2018, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timfromma

If you want to gamble on a "should", go right ahead.

I guess people who camp in cold weather have to winterize every night? As said it depends on how long it is below 32, for one with power and tank heaters your underbelly will not freeze in 6 or so hrs if the temp dips. I have lasted days with no problems, camping I live in Southern Virginia, last year was the first year I ever winterized. It was going to be cold winter, didn't want to have to worry, or go out every morning to check and run my hot water and pump. Tank heaters do more then just heat the tank, they also heat the underbelly when they come on below the set internal temp, that big tank heats up and helps the ambient air in the underbelly, set your furnace to 50 and you really don't have a problem for a SHORT period like a night. You can also do as I for longer period put a space heater in the basement on low. It's always best to winterize for peace of mind , but a few hrs at night you will not freeze as long as you get above 32 during the day is what I have found, but I also do not live in Maine or even Ohio, or camp in winter in those northern states.

tomkatb · 03-08-2018, 08:02 PM

Many new trailers and rv's are set up to handle below freezing weather.

Cheaper units often have options for cold weather. "Arctic packages"

The mass of the trailer holds heat. Upper 20's should not be an issue in any heated vehicle.

The water line is an issue. Electrically traced hoses are made for below freezing temperatures. Not terribly expensive.

Most rvs are designed for moderately cold weather, thus not requiring antifreeze at below freezing weather.

I would start to worry at 15 degrees. My manufacturer added heaters to the three holding tanks. Water lines are near the heat ducts.

pmsherman · 03-09-2018, 01:02 AM

I face this issue when returning home to Cleveland, OH from my winter trip. I'l be home after the middle of March and will be out for another trip in the second half of April. The one month interval between trips is likely to have below freezing temps so winterizing is required.

My procedure is to drain all of the tanks, and the water heater. The water lines are blown out using compressed air and antifreeze is put in both waste tanks, the sink traps and the one place that can't be cleared of water with compressed air. The one piping location that requires antifreeze is the manifold leading to the water pump and the pump itself. Once the water filter has been removed, I can use the winterize setting on the manifold to fill that area and the pump with antifreeze.

When I dewinterize, I use the winterize setting to run water into the manifold and pump. Around two fills of the filter cartridge is enough to flush out all of the antifreeze and I'm ready for a full water tank again.

I've used this technique for winterizing since we bought the rig in 2011. I've never had an issue with the plumbing system caused by freezing. The only time I had an issue with it was when we started a trip when temperatures had been in the low teens for the week before we left. In this case, I couldn't clear out the antifreeze from the manifold and pump because the antifreeze had turned to jelly. It took a little over four hours for my plumbing compartment heater to warm up the compartment enough to liquify the antifreeze so I could flush it out.

Phil

bareftn · 03-09-2018, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kimber45

I think you answered your own question. Is it really worth the risk? I would at least do something. Drain it, blow it out, leave valves open, run a small heater in it, something. Don't do a thing and you will be kicking yourself if it does freeze. RV anti freeze is what $3 a gallon? well worth not laying awake worrying.

x2 above besides a few gals is still cheaper then a trip to the camper dealer

Comanchecreek · 03-09-2018, 09:31 AM

Depends on how well you want to sleep while it's cold out.

Smiletwice · 03-09-2018, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmsherman

I face this issue when returning home to Cleveland, OH from my winter trip. I'l be home after the middle of March and will be out for another trip in the second half of April. The one month interval between trips is likely to have below freezing temps so winterizing is required.

My procedure is to drain all of the tanks, and the water heater. The water lines are blown out using compressed air and antifreeze is put in both waste tanks, the sink traps and the one place that can't be cleared of water with compressed air. The one piping location that requires antifreeze is the manifold leading to the water pump and the pump itself. Once the water filter has been removed, I can use the winterize setting on the manifold to fill that area and the pump with antifreeze.

When I dewinterize, I use the winterize setting to run water into the manifold and pump. Around two fills of the filter cartridge is enough to flush out all of the antifreeze and I'm ready for a full water tank again.

I've used this technique for winterizing since we bought the rig in 2011. I've never had an issue with the plumbing system caused by freezing. The only time I had an issue with it was when we started a trip when temperatures had been in the low teens for the week before we left. In this case, I couldn't clear out the antifreeze from the manifold and pump because the antifreeze had turned to jelly. It took a little over four hours for my plumbing compartment heater to warm up the compartment enough to liquify the antifreeze so I could flush it out.

Phil

Phil, thank you for the detailed explanation. Just to clarify, this is a new trailer to us and came winterized. You talked about de-winterizing by running water thru the winterization intake. If we're hooking up hose to city water to de-winterize the rest of the trailer, does that mean I need to separately run a jug or two of water thru the winterization port to clean out the water pump? Just use the same hose we would winterize with, turn on the pump and suck water out of a bucket?Or can I just hook hose to that port and turn on pump for a few minutes?

Sorry to be dense on this. On our old trailer there was just a valve on the water pump we switched over to a hose coming out of it that we stuck into the antifreeze jug. Didn't have separate winterization hookup on the outside of trailer. We just switched valve back in the spring and used city water to de-winterize. Since we always hooked up to city water during our travels and never used the fresh water tank (and water pump), I suspect the water pump on the old trailer is still full of anti-freeze if I understand the logic.

Finally, when it is time to winterize again, I was planning to use the air compressor method for the first time. If I understand you right, since I'm not running antifreeze throughout, I still need to hook up to winterization port to suck in just enough to fill pump and filter container...right?

Thanks again!

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