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Old 12-02-2016, 03:32 PM   #21
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unless I'm putting one of the kids or wife in timeout by hanging them up , I use the 3M strips, works great and when we trade it in, there is no holes in the walls,
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:36 PM   #22
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I use a product called EZ anchors. Made for drywall bur work really well in my rv. I predrill a 1/4" hole, insert the lead anchor and then the screw. If using on an outside wall, be sure to cut off the first 1/4". Nothing holds better.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:48 PM   #23
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All great ideas, here is one more. I have used industrial two sided tape for hanging pictures and a spice rack. You can find it in the big box lumber yards such as Lowes or Home Depot. Read the package and it will tell you what the weight limit is for the tape. There are several different ones. If you do use it the room and the tape should be at typical room temperature, 70 degrees or so. Sticks better.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:51 PM   #24
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To hang towels we hung a bath rod across the bathroom (just below our cabinets and an inch or two from the wall). This tends to jiggle loose when we travel so I cut out 2 pieces of wood with a circle in them for the ends of the rod, attached those to the walls, and inserted the bath rod into each end, twist to expand till tight. Works great and will hold 3-4 full size towels. For other areas I used multiple types of hollow wall anchors, command strips, expanding plastic anchors, and glue - depending on what/how heavy an object was and if we wanted it in permanently or not. cincia
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:09 PM   #25
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anchoring things to the interior walls

I cut oak into slabs about 1/4 " thick and the width needed to mount towel hooks, coat hooks, paper towel holders and a cosmetic rack. I sand, stain and finish the oak to match the trailer walls. The slabs have pre-drilled holes that accept plugs that you can buy at most hardware stores to provide hiding for the screws. I mark the location of the screws on the thin trailer wall and drill a hole the diameter of the screw shank. This allows the screws to bite into the thin wall material better. I use as many screws as I think will be necessary for the weight being applied. Four for the hooks, six for the cosmetic rack. The thin plywood on the walls is 1/8" thick the best I can tell so I use screws that will penetrate no more than 1/4". Everything has held so far and we have been on some bumpy roads.
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:39 PM   #26
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I just used small screws for towel ranks, but for hanging items, the removable hangers work great. You just pull the tab down, and it releases the hook.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:04 PM   #27
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Some builders use a wood grain paper or vinyl covering, over a thin wood or fiberboard panel. 3M Command strips may tear that paper / vinyl, especially if you go to remove it. I'd recommend you contact the particular manufacturer to see what they recommend.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:06 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daybreak View Post
Curious which command hooks you all use for towels?
These.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...80802664366269
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:10 PM   #29
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There are heavy duty command hooks. Be sure to use alcohol in the location to remove any coating on the wall. Also, the towel racks and hooks, which go over thhe doors work very well. You can also use command hook adhesive strips to hold these in place. Lastly, if you reallywant to put screws into the wall, get a VERY GOOD stud finder, the ones, which have wire and pipe sensors, so you know what is near the stud you want to use.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:30 PM   #30
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Hanging Tips

I use a stud finder to find a good anchor point and then use screws. If there is access behind a location I want to attach something to I cut a small block of wood to use as a backer for the screws to go into. I also have used a "pop rivet tool" for locations where I wanted to mount a rack for something light weight, for instance a few ball caps or small hand towel.

Good luck and use some imagination, along with all the good tips posted here.

I would also venture to say that most mistakes are fixable.

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Old 12-02-2016, 05:45 PM   #31
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I found a little known product that works good...a blind rubber nut fastener. I've used them a few times and they have never failed. Here's a link to the manufacture's website (complete with a short video showing how they work:

::::: Jet Fast Co., Ltd. - Rubber Nut-insert ::::: Thin sheet nut-insert, rubber nut-insert, nylon nut-insert,,tools for rivet nut used.

You can also find them on Amazon:
Rubber Nut Insert
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:35 PM   #32
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If possible, examine the structure behind the interior walls of the new trailer. We were able to determine where behind the bathroom walls were the hardwood framing supports for the sliding door. We were able to drill into and sink firm screw supports for our aftermarket towel rack.

Interior walls that are just inside the outer skin of the trailer, I have used glued in wall anchors that I also use in the plaster walls of my brick and mortar home.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:42 PM   #33
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We have been using Command strips and over the door hook on racks.

On our last unit I did mount a couple of coat hooks to the studs on an outside wall. That particular unit had wood framing, so other than the wall thickness is was like hanging something in a house.

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Old 12-02-2016, 08:13 PM   #34
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I've had good luck with the command hooks.

Did a mod a few months back where I was hanging about six feet of wooden cabinets on the upper wall in the "garage" area. Since my TT has the wood framing between the inner and outer walls I used a stud finder...it worked pretty good. However, the finders are only reasonably accurate. It will find the stud but not the center of the stud. To do that, I would drill a tiny (really tine...breathe on the bit and it will break) hole where the finder identified the stud. Then, drill another hole ½ inch left or right to verify. If you drill where there is no stud you'll immediately feel the bit biting into clear air. Usually drilling four holes will show you the almost exact center of the stud. Repeat 12-16 inches left or right to verify the other studs.

Since the whole area will be covered by the wall cabinet the number of holes you drill is irrelevant. But, since the holes are so tiny (about the size of the wire on a paper clip) it's almost impossible to find them by sight...have to rub you hand on the wall to find them.

Works great....lasts a long time.
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:38 PM   #35
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I agree 100% with Mark!!1
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:37 PM   #36
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For stuff that has screws originally, I substitute sheet metal screws - usually a #8 with a length that will go into the wall just about a half inch. So far, 3 trailers and almost 40 years, I haven't had one pull out. You just have to be sure to NOT over tighten the screw. I've mounted mirrors, coat racks, and towel holders like this. Also, I pre-drill a very small pilot hole as well. If something goes wrong you can always fill the hole (try JB Weld's Wood Epoxy) and re-drill the hole. Of course, with a stud finder you should be able to put at least a couple of screws into the wood studs behind the luan.
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:38 AM   #37
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Thank you everyone for your great ideas... The command hooks sound great.. But if I decide to put any holes in the trailer walls I think I might find myself with a divorce... .HAHAHAHA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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