Bad valve on a full tank of propane, what to do?

[lugoismad]

We purchased our used (2007) camper last year. The dealer included two 30lb propane tanks, and filled them for us.

This weekend we finally exhausted one of the tanks and had to switch the valve to the other. I found that the other tank, when I turned it on, has a leak at the hose connector. I tried it on a grill and other propane devices, and it always leaks.

Its full of propane though.

What should I do? The tank is also out of date for its inspection, it was made in 2004 and had a 10 year inspection on it. Yes, I know, the dealer gave me a bad tank that was past inspection!

Can I do a tank swap on a full tank? I really don't want to waste this propane.

What would be the best way to handle this?

[CHICKDOE]

are you saying the portion where the acme nut screws on leaks even when different hoses and nuts are screwed onto it? that portion of the valve has threads on both the inside and outside allowing both female and male fittings to be screwed into or onto it. perhaps you could test both to see if both leak. but why not just bit the bullet and lose the propane. it is worth maybe $20. even if you were to get it to work with another fitting you may be looking at having to replace the valve when you have the tank recertified. or just take it off the trailer and refill the one that you is working properly. have you swapped the tanks to verify that the leaker still leaks in the other position and whether the non leaker works or leaks where the leaker was?

[juhesihcaaa]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

are you saying the portion where the acme nut screws on leaks even when different hoses and nuts are screwed onto it? that portion of the valve has threads on both the inside and outside allowing both female and male fittings to be screwed into or onto it. perhaps you could test both to see if both leak. but why not just bit the bullet and lose the propane. it is worth maybe $20. even if you were to get it to work with another fitting you may be looking at having to replace the valve when you have the tank recertified. or just take it off the trailer and refill the one that you is working properly. have you swapped the tanks to verify that the leaker still leaks in the other position and whether the non leaker works or leaks where the leaker was?

OP's wife. The part where the acme nut screws on is what leaks. We tried the tank on both hook ups and it leaked on both. It is an issue with the tank.

And the replacement tank for the other was $40 so we'd be out $40 if we can't fix the connection cheaply.

[CHICKDOE]

sorry for the problem. the only thing I can think of is to possibly try male fitting that screws into the internal threads (like they use when they refill a tank). there were some on the internet for $16+. but there's no guarantee that won't leak also. I'd try taking the tank out and taking it to a propane dealer, tell him what is going on, and ask him to look at it. perhaps they can see where it is leaking and possibly have a fix for it. you might get lucky, or they might say it is damaged and needs to be replaced. the repairs are needed (plus the recertification of the tank) the cost of the propane you might lose in the tank is probably the most minor cost involved.

[Bama Rambler]

There's a gasket in the Acme part of the valve. It's common for it to be missing and they're easily replaced.

I bet yours is missing. Look in the end of the valve and see if there's an o-ring in there. If not take the one out of the other valve and put it in the full one until you can get a replacement.

Here's what you're looking for.

[KyDan]

X2 what Bama said!!
Plus you can probably get an o-ring/gasket at any LP dealer or even a
decent hardware store that fills tanks.

[bob213]

First place I would contact is the dealer that gave you an out of date, uncertified tank.

[Bama Rambler]

One other thing. The original certification for the cylinder is 10 years, but they can be recertified. If they're recertified there'll be a stamp on the collar. So that 2004 cylinder could be certified for another 5 years if visually inspected or an additional 10 years if pressure tested.