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Old 12-23-2014, 11:49 PM   #31
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Well...if they both work off the same plug...then the spec is WITH the humidifier.. Looks like it has a step up transformer for DC that works at 24V and 2.5 amps. So that would translate into 5 amps at 12V + some loss in conversion...so lets call it 6 amps.
So 8 hours of sleep with a CPAP will run about 50 amp hours out of your batts. This is essentially taking a single group 27 or 31 large 12V battery to half charged. Or a pair of group 24's which a lot of folks have to 66% charged.
If one has to run the furnace in cold weather and a Cpap...you are probably gonna want the basic 2 battery set up + another one.
Assuming your setup is pretty typical...that is a good rule of thumb for people I think..."Add a CPAP... add a 12V battery."
Thanks for the data & have a great Xmas in the warm!
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:49 AM   #32
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Note to the OP, be careful boondocking behind a Cracker Barrel restaurant. It's much darker back there and when they close up at night no one can observe your RV from the front. You're on your own. Always felt much safer in rest stops or truck stops.
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:51 AM   #33
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I'm thinking that I will use a jump start battery pack that has a 12 volt or 120 inverter for my CPAP when overnighting at Walmart. That way if the CPAP draws down the battery it's only the battery pack dead. It also moves around with the CPAP where it's needed.
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:10 AM   #34
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I'm thinking that I will use a jump start battery pack that has a 12 volt or 120 inverter for my CPAP when overnighting at Walmart. That way if the CPAP draws down the battery it's only the battery pack dead. It also moves around with the CPAP where it's needed.

Just remember, if you can go without the humidifier, it uses a lot less power.
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:37 AM   #35
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Also I will not be un hitching for the night but should I un plug the electric hook up from my TV?
I installed a relay in my engine compartment and a switch in the cab so I can turn the power to the trailer on and off. Probably not a big concern, but I'm always worried that if we stop for the day somewhere, I'll come out and find the trailers drained the TV battery somehow. Pretty cheap insurance. The relay's about $8, I had the switch from an old Mr. Coffee coffee pot, and a few feet of wire.
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:18 PM   #36
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"Once again I remind everyone" Really?

Actually I am pretty happy with they way my cheap battery monitor is setup. I wired my cheap monitor directly to the batteries and ran multi stand 8 GA wire. When I compare the reading with the cheap monitor and battery bank direct the reading is the same with no measurable voltage drop.

Your explanation is to assume your tying to get a accurate reading when running alot of amps at the same time. I get my most accurate reading in the morning when the system as been at rest.

YES he did need to remind everyone (maybe not you) because the alarm monitor is a very crude method and nobody mentioned "12.2 volts at rest". You obviously know that but the OP didn't.

For the OP's situation, the "yes you can" was the only appropriate answer and every other post just complexitizes the situation, which then needs to be clarified la,da dada. Then others post bit and pieces which need to be corrected etc etc.

Kinda fun to read these tho.


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Old 12-27-2014, 04:32 PM   #37
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Quote:
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I'm thinking that I will use a jump start battery pack that has a 12 volt or 120 inverter for my CPAP when overnighting at Walmart. That way if the CPAP draws down the battery it's only the battery pack dead. It also moves around with the CPAP where it's needed.
Well... I think you are going to be EXTREMELY disappointed over time with that approach despite its' attractiveness.
1. The quick start battery packs are made to deliver SHORT jolts of high current to start a car. This means lots of thin plates .. and not much DEEP CYCLE capacity.
2. Using a "starting " battery continuously in deep cycle application will cut battery life by OVER 50%... most likely by 2/3.
3. The run time you get per charge on the pack...will not take you though the night AND you risk going below 12.2V ...or going flat which is really damaging to a battery.
4. Using the inverter mode rather than the 12V mode costs at least 15% of your battery power in conversion loss in a small inverter.
5. You need a conventional true deep cycle battery (wet or AGM) with amp hours of close to 100 which means a group 27 or 31 and around 60-65 lbs in a wet battery. That's a lot to carry around!

Anyway...good luck & think it through ...or at least buy it somewhere you can take it back to for a while if unhappy.
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:26 PM   #38
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I'm looking for your thoughts. In a few weeks We will be heading south with our TT. Plan on staying in a Crackle Barrel parking lot for the first night. I checked with them and they said "come on you are welcome to stay" It looks to be in the 30's over night and I was wondering if my batteries would last the night with the furnace cycling on and off. I have two deep cell batteries wired in parallel. Also I will not be un hitching for the night but should I un plug the electric hook up from my TV?

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. This will be our first time with no electric hook up.
It is very important to check the reserve capacity of a battery not the CCA when choosing a battery to use in an RV. A 12-volt marine battery with a 221-minute reserve would run a furnace continuously for 14 plus hours. Your one night stay wouldnít be a problem if you had a single 12-volt battery like this. I use to dry camp at Quartzsite for four nights on two 6 volt Trojan 105ís in series before a recharge was needed.
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