Blowout concerns! How scared should I be?

[Crockett]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Pyrometers don't check pressure, get a TST TPMS and monitor both. Inflate tires to MCP and avoid curbs & road hazards if possible is the best you can do after you get rid of the OEM tires. Forget the max pressure on the trailer. Use the pyrometer on the hubs.

One has to like the idea of getting a handle on tire temp. I imagine they have recommended temp ranges for given tires? My earlier post was biased towards the motorhome crowd, but applicable for all tires. Do you use these for finding the best inflation for your tires? How accurate are they? What does the acronym MCP stand for?

[OldCoot]

MCP= Max Cold Pressure. The TST TPMS monitors both temp and pressure and thus you only need a pyrometer to shoot the hubs for possible brg failure alert.

TST comes with a factory preset temperature alert @ 158°F, but you can set it lower or higher if you so desire. I left mine @ the 158°F.

[strat56]

I read these threads with folks buying new tires at a higher load rating than their trailer was equipped with when delivered. They never mention changing axles or rims. Rims have a maximum tire pressure they are certified for and axles have a maximum load rating.

My trailer has a max weight of 8900 lbs. At a 15% tongue weight that leaves the tires/rims/axles supporting 7565 lbs, at 10% tongue weight the tires/rims/axles are supporting 8010 lbs. I have dual 4000 lb axles on my trailer. At 50 PSI the tires are rated at 2150 lbs.

So I have this:
Axles 8000 lbs
Tires/rims 8600 lbs
Maximum trailer weight on the tires/rims/axles 8010 lbs (not very likely that I can load the trailer to give it a 10% tongue weight)

Everything is well within spec except max load and a 10% tongue weight which is over the axle weight by 10 lbs.

I don't see a big advantage in spending the extra money to get load range D or E tires with this set up. Am I missing something?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by strat56

...I don't see a big advantage in spending the extra money to get load range D or E tires with this set up. Am I missing something?

Shock loads on the tires from just highway driving, etc. and running that close to the max. load rating on the tires. The tires will USUALLY be the first thing to go.

[RSchleder]

Originally Posted by gskill

We usually take long TT trips throughout the US and have had an average of two tires ruined per trip. Luckily the only damage was to the plastic skirt covering the outside of the wheel well. Unfortunately you don't know when a tire starts loosing pressure and when it happens it totally deflates and shreds the tire and anything in it's path. We normally don't even know that we had a failure until someone drives along side and points to the rear.

This year I bought a tire monitoring system that measures heat and pressure in the tire. I was able to have a tire repaired rather than ruined last week. I would strongly recommend purchasing a system that monitors your tires.

AMEN, exactly our approach. Best money I've ever spent on any of my RV's. The tire monitors we bought also keep track of and provide a visual of the pressure and temp and give an alarm if either fall out of the set perimeters.

[IronCobra]

Upon calling FR, and being transferred to a quality engineer, he told me that the Constancy LY188 is actually a 10ply E load rated tire that is radial steel belted. So long as you maintain recommended PSI and don't curb it, they should last years without any issues. Apparently Warren Buffet had one of his lead team members negotiated with a major Chinese distributor to produce a very well built tire for all of their trailer lines. To reduce over all cost and to manage the production more efficiently, the rep told me that they actually own the facility in China that produces the tires.

[banda]

Originally Posted by Ray and Ann

I was appalled to find that the max loads on the tires totaled less than the weight of the trailer!

Keep in mind that 10-15% of the trailer weight is carried by the tow vehicle, not the trailer, so you may not have been over the tire's limits.

Originally Posted by Ray and Ann

With the new tires, the pressure is considerably higher (80 lbs. vs. 50)

Did you check to make sure your wheels are rated to handle 80PSI?

[vinmaker]

Originally Posted by IronCobra

Upon calling FR, and being transferred to a quality engineer, he told me that the Constancy LY188 is actually a 10ply E load rated tire that is radial steel belted. So long as you maintain recommended PSI and don't curb it, they should last years without any issues. Apparently Warren Buffet had one of his lead team members negotiated with a major Chinese distributor to produce a very well built tire for all of their trailer lines. To reduce over all cost and to manage the production more efficiently, the rep told me that they actually own the facility in China that produces the tires.

The problem is that an equity company such as Berkshire Hathaway is not an expert in the manufacture of tires. Owning a plant and knowing how to produce quality tires may not be the same.

Many here feel it is best to buy a tire produced by a company with a long history of building tires.

It is all opinion.

If I had a lot of money, I too could buy a plant in China and begin producing tires.

Vin.

[gfarmcafe]

Originally Posted by Bluepill

I have a healthy respect for the bad possibilities of a tire or bearing failure on any vehicle or trailer.

I grew up in the era of tubed tires (yes, I've had my AARP card for 20+ years), and had my share of running flats and a few blow-outs.

My current practice is to check cold pressure before leaving in the morning, then stopping as close to 1/2 hour into the trip as I can to do a complete check-over of connections, safety chains, visual on the tires and a heat check of all tires with an IR thermometer. Temperatures should be fairly even, but when driving with the sun on one side all tires on that side will be higher.


I use the thermometer every time I stop for any normal reason (Food, fuel, etc.)

We do the same, and I'll add that we carry a 3 gal. air compressor for this exact reason. As an example of it's importance, I had to add air to the rear tire on our tandem trailer each morning on our way back from Florida last winter. Took it in to get it fixed and they found a nail in the inside sidewall that was slowly leaking. I won't take the traileranywhere without the compressor. I don't have the thermometer but sounds like a good idea.

[Mtelkman]

Originally Posted by gfarmcafe

I don't have the thermometer but sounds like a good idea.

I just got a flyer from Harbor Freight. They have their Non-contact Infrared Laser Thermometer on special for $24.82. That is a pretty good deal as I paid more for mine than that. It is Harbor Freight product but I have been using mine on my farming equipment as well as my RV wheels for years and it has worked great. Coupon # is 43809019.

[siskom]

Just bought one I'm like a kid with a new toy all thru the house in the camper checking ac ducts windows and yes how handy for checking tires/ bearings great addition to camper regardless of type.

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by Crockett

I've always understood that maximum pressure was for maximum load. If your only running say 80% of maximum load then proper inflation will be less than maximum pressure. That is probably the case here. If you run maximum pressure in this scenario, you'll have a rougher ride, uneven tire wear, and handling will be affected as well. Of course if the tire is not OEM then other variables come into play as well. This is probably why the pressure is listed as a maximum pressure on the tire. Now what...we all go out and get pyrometers??

Thanks....tire store just checked 'em for me today and they don't see any signs of damage or excess wear after 5000 miles at 23lbs,. under max inflation so I'm gonna keep em right there at 82 lbs. like the sticker says.