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Old 06-29-2015, 11:48 PM   #31
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How far is your dealer from Goshen Indiana? Your trailer already has that many miles on it. I pull lots of rvs. For the past 9 years I do it for a living. I've had flats, blowouts and completely lost a wheel.. I never had a control issue and only once damaged a fender flair. If you have a blowout the odds are you wouldn't even know it. You may consider getting a cheap cb radio and monitoring channel 19. Some trucker will usually tell you if you have a flat. Keep your tires inflated properly, keep your speed at 65 or less, regularly inspect the tires and go have fun! For the number of trailers that are on the road there are very few problems. PS. Always make sure your wheel bearings are greased.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:52 PM   #32
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My first 5th wheel trailer blow out on Fathers day 2015,left rear. I heard the pop and was able to pull off the road immediately. Will need to replace my fender skirt and recover exposed wood above tire. Tire was a Goodyear Marathon and came on the trailer new 3 years ago
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:25 AM   #33
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Funny, but for all the advice on your TT Tires, only one "generic" Be Prepared.

When it comes to a New TT, that will also mean:
Get a usable Bottle or Scissor Jack (depends on your Axle setup).
Get a Lug Wrench that is Tested to Fit your TT Wheels (Alum Wheels often have SMALLER/DEEPER than Normal Lug Nut Holes).
Get a small Tire Pump AND enough Power Cord to use it on your TT Tires.
Get whatever Safety Gear (Reflector Triangle, Flashlight, maybe Reflector Vest) you feel necessary to keep you Safe if you do have a Blowout on the Side of a Freeway - or along a Winding 2-Lane without a full Shoulder.
Ensure that you are as happy with your Spare as with your Original Tires (and that it is Properly Inflated - and Holds Air).
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:45 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by seigell View Post
Funny, but for all the advice on your TT Tires, only one "generic" Be Prepared.

When it comes to a New TT, that will also mean:
Get a usable Bottle or Scissor Jack (depends on your Axle setup).
Get a Lug Wrench that is Tested to Fit your TT Wheels (Alum Wheels often have SMALLER/DEEPER than Normal Lug Nut Holes).
Get a small Tire Pump AND enough Power Cord to use it on your TT Tires.
Get whatever Safety Gear (Reflector Triangle, Flashlight, maybe Reflector Vest) you feel necessary to keep you Safe if you do have a Blowout on the Side of a Freeway - or along a Winding 2-Lane without a full Shoulder.
Ensure that you are as happy with your Spare as with your Original Tires (and that it is Properly Inflated - and Holds Air).
Great list. Ive already purchased tpms sensor kit, ramp jacks, Viair 400 RV compressor kit, 1700peak amp jumper/powr pack, DeWalt 20v Max 1/2" impact driver with 5amp batteries. I carry a tool box full of tools, flares, reflecyor triangles, patcg kit and will be outlining the rear wall of my coach with reflective tape and installing 4 whelen strobes to the rear in the event of an emergency.
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:46 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by larryo View Post
How far is your dealer from Goshen Indiana? Your trailer already has that many miles on it. I pull lots of rvs. For the past 9 years I do it for a living. I've had flats, blowouts and completely lost a wheel.. I never had a control issue and only once damaged a fender flair. If you have a blowout the odds are you wouldn't even know it. You may consider getting a cheap cb radio and monitoring channel 19. Some trucker will usually tell you if you have a flat. Keep your tires inflated properly, keep your speed at 65 or less, regularly inspect the tires and go have fun! For the number of trailers that are on the road there are very few problems. PS. Always make sure your wheel bearings are greased.
You should arrange to deliver mine. You sound honet and respectable.
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Old 06-30-2015, 01:54 AM   #36
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OK...here's a question for class A's loaded to a little less than rated capacity.
My tires say 105 psi max on the sidewall...but the sticker inside the cap says inflate all to 82lbs which is what I have done for the last year. Drives well at that inflation and inspection reveals no undo wear patterns at 5k miles.
I guess I'm concerned from this thread that closer to max inflation is where I need to be. But why would they have me 20lbs. less on the cab sticker for the tires that are on the rig?? Or is the discussion above strictly related to trailer tires?

EDIT...BTW...they are Goodyear 245/70R 19.5" tires.
178" wheelbase/29ft coach/18k GVWR Same size as all non XL G'Town tires but I'm thinking our lower weight chassis (requires less inflation than a 351 or such)?
I've always understood that maximum pressure was for maximum load. If your only running say 80% of maximum load then proper inflation will be less than maximum pressure. That is probably the case here. If you run maximum pressure in this scenario, you'll have a rougher ride, uneven tire wear, and handling will be affected as well. Of course if the tire is not OEM then other variables come into play as well. This is probably why the pressure is listed as a maximum pressure on the tire. Now what...we all go out and get pyrometers??
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:08 AM   #37
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How concerned should I be that I will have a blowout in the first 5000 miles of pulling it, so long as I keep the tires maintained (covered and pressured properly)?
Be concerned that you might have a blowout and prepare accordingly. Be more concerned with maintaining the tires and having fun. We have 13K+ miles in four years on our OEM radials and there will be more to follow.

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Old 06-30-2015, 06:36 AM   #38
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Importance of tire size and rating

Some of the posts here have mentioned load ratings. After losing two tires on the road, with consequent $1000+ damage each time, I looked closely at the load ratings for the tires on our travel trailer. I was appalled to find that the max loads on the tires totaled less than the weight of the trailer! Plus, at the time of the second failure the tires were 5 years old--and even the State Trooper who stopped to check on us mentioned that these tires only last about 5 years max. So I have replaced all of the tires, and I went to a slightly larger size with E load ratings; also invested in a TPMS for truck and trailer. With the new tires, the pressure is considerably higher (80 lbs. vs. 50), so the pressures don't match what the placard on the trailer says. The max loads on our tires now total higher than the weight of the trailer. AND, it's interesting to note that most of the similar, newer rigs on our dealer's lot have the same size tires I put on our unit. Hmmm....
We just made a 3000 mile trip with no tire problems.
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:52 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
I've always understood that maximum pressure was for maximum load. If your only running say 80% of maximum load then proper inflation will be less than maximum pressure. That is probably the case here. If you run maximum pressure in this scenario, you'll have a rougher ride, uneven tire wear, and handling will be affected as well. Of course if the tire is not OEM then other variables come into play as well. This is probably why the pressure is listed as a maximum pressure on the tire. Now what...we all go out and get pyrometers??
Pyrometers don't check pressure, get a TST TPMS and monitor both. Inflate tires to MCP and avoid curbs & road hazards if possible is the best you can do after you get rid of the OEM tires. Forget the max pressure on the trailer. Use the pyrometer on the hubs.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:16 AM   #40
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Hey guys......with all the discussion about replacing with higher load rated tires, probably best to remember we are still limited to our axel load rating.....FWIW...
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