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Old 10-24-2016, 04:46 PM   #1
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Brakes

We purchased a 2015 Flagstaff 8528IKWS 5er in September and recently had our first long trip (Charleston SC). I noticed that the brakes didn't seem to have as much stopping power as I am used to. We had another 5er previously and I have other trailers. When I got home I started checking everything and here is where I am. The trailer brakes are definitely not right. With the brake controller set to max. gain and the boost feature set to 3x If I move the manual lever all the way to the left I can easily pull the trailer with my truck. I live on a dirt road and the wheels don't even start to slide. This is the first trailer I have ever had that wouldn't lock the wheels on pavement if one wasn't careful. Also at speed the trailer is definitely pushing the truck regardless of the controller settings.

I have been attempting to diagnose the problem and here is where I am. The voltage from the controller to the plug in the truck bed is correct. The brakes are adjusted correctly, All four magnets are working, and working smoothly and equally, The brake shoes are in good shape.

I'm at a loss at this point. Any ideas?

Thanks
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:54 PM   #2
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Start with the obvious. Adjust the brakes.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:01 PM   #3
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He said that they were adjusted properly.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:06 PM   #4
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brakes

They are adjusted.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:13 PM   #5
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Explain to me your idea of adjusted properly please.
If you adjusted them to wheel lock up and backed off more than three or 4 clicks, they are too loose!
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:21 PM   #6
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Check the brake wiring and see if you have sufficient amperage at the magnets. I bet you have a corroded or poor connection somewhere (high resistance). Don't know what type of connectors the builder used, but knowing the RV industry, they are probably Scotch Lock's and those are prone to bad contact after a fashion.

I just re did the brakes on my trailer. I used mechanical connections (stripped and soldered the wires) and applied thermal shrink tubing over the connections....

I've heard that you can get 'Western Union' style mechanical connects that are di-electric grease filled that you squeeze with vice grips to make the connection, but I have no idea where you can get them.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:27 PM   #7
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brakes

Adjusting the brake means, tighten until lockup and back off a couple clicks.

No scotch locks. I've not seen the connectors that they used before but they all look tight tidy and waterproof.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:50 PM   #8
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brakes

I'll look at the voltage at the magnets tomorrow. But, with all four magnets behaving the same that would indicate that all are receiving the same voltage. I wonder if there is a junction somewhere? I'll have to look.

I'll also adjust the brakes again. Maybe my idea of tight isn't.

More tomorrow. It's too dark to work on it now.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:51 PM   #9
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What is your tow vehicle and brake control?
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Old 10-24-2016, 06:21 PM   #10
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brakes

Controller is a Tekonsha Prodigy P2
The TV is a 2004 Chevy 2500HD 4WD 8.1 gas
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Old 10-24-2016, 06:22 PM   #11
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some brakes on dexter axels are designed not to lock up, with that much weight it would flat spot the tire
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Old 10-24-2016, 06:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrybessette View Post
Controller is a Tekonsha Prodigy P2
The TV is a 2004 Chevy 2500HD 4WD 8.1 gas
Same controller I use and I can lock mine if I take the bar all the way to the right. Now, mine are not on an RV, they are on a tandem axle gooseneck and the axles are 8 bolt Dexters, I believe 14K pound rated. per axle.

They won't lock loaded but empty, no issue. It's a heavy steel framed Kaufman. Empty weight is about 7000 pounds.
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Old 10-24-2016, 06:41 PM   #13
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Check the trailer to truck connection. If it is corroded it would limit the current to the brakes.


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Old 10-24-2016, 07:03 PM   #14
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brakes

Checked it, cleaned it with contact cleaner/lube, checked voltage. All seems OK.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:05 PM   #15
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brakes

Why would Dexter design a system that wouldn't lick up? You would be giving away valuable stopping power. Makes no sense to me.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:14 PM   #16
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because of the weight of some trailer,
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:25 PM   #17
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http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ock-73974.html

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...k-up-8943.html

http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...ric_Brakes.pdf
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrybessette View Post
Checked it, cleaned it with contact cleaner/lube, checked voltage. All seems OK.
Larry... with a high resistance connection somewhere in the system, your voltage will show 12 or better. It's the amperage that energizes the magnets and causes them to grab the steel face of the drum, not the voltage.

The easiest way to determine if the harness is outputting the necessary amps is load it with a load, Pull a magnet and take a piece of steel and have your wife actuate the brake controller and place the steel on the magnet and try to remove it. if you can remove it easily with the brake controller at full output, you have a resistance issue in the wiring somewhere. At full amps that steel should be very difficult to remove from the magnet plus the magnet should begin to warm up...

Voltage means little. Amperage is everything.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:28 PM   #19
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I've heard with some oem controllers trailer brakes will not lock by design. If true would still not be OPs problem.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:58 PM   #20
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Thanks,
Sidecarflip and tooslow.
Some things to think about. Probably won't get into it again before the weekend but have to fix it. One more trip and then she's put away for the winter. Plenty of time then.

This is a great group! We look forward to maybe meeting some of you down the road.
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